If I was you I would by that 1982 JD in a heartbeat. With only 2700 hrs and probably wasn't worked very hard. We have over 100 tractors anywhere from mid 1960's to brand new and the older JD tractors never give any problems and are easy to work on.
Do you have pic of tractor? If so post it, I would love to see it.
Yep I would say the majority recommending 4x4 are running undersize tractors for the work.
I agree to an extent. Yes running a 2wd in hay fields is great sharp turning radius and doesn't tear up the fields. If your just picking up round bales then a 2wd is plenty.
But if you are using it for a utility tractor which is about 75% of what all tractors in the 80hp range and down are used for then 4wd is a must.
I'll give you a prime example to discredit your theory.
We sprigged about 35 acres of costal this year. All sand loam or sugar sand.
We plowed fields and then leveled them with a 14ft railroad iron with c channel welded to the bottom with 8 semi tires behind it. Our Jd 2840 wich is about a 80hp tractor weighting about 12000 with loader and cab. Would not pull the drag across the field when it started to carry dirt.
One would think that's plenty of tractor.
Yet our 4wd JD 5055E with loader weights about 6500 and 55hp pulled it just fine.
Both tractors have water in the tires to by the way.
So why buy a bigger more expensive 2wd tractor if you don't truely need that big of a tractor. It takes a much bigger 2wd to do what a 4wd can do.
Now this is leaving out what the pto Hp is because if you need 85pto hp to run a 20ft batwing the it doesn't matter if it's 2wd or 4wd you need 85pto hp period.
But I'm purely talking about taking a equally hp tractor in 2wd or 4wd and being able to put all of the power to the ground. A 4wd will outshine a 2wd every day of the week.
The OP needs to spend the money on the best size 4wd tractor he thinks he can afford.
Here's the one I can buy for 14k. The more I look around, the more of a solid deal it looks.
Does the rabbit and turtle gear work on this tractor. If it's out its **** near an impossible fix. But isn't necessary to have. If it's still working that it will last you a long time. I would suggest replacing hyd fluid and filter and cleaning out sump screen in the bottom. If you don't the will crush the filter and give you trouble. We had hell with ours until we drained all the valleys in the case and flushed it Parked on a slope. It collected sludge in the bottom of the valleys over time.
That being said those things are tanks the old straight 6 will last forever.
Really don't think there is anything wrong with it that is a deal breaker. Doing the joystick conversion is a $400 fix for the bucket creep. One of the tires leaks air over a long period of time. Probably just valve stem repair. He said it starts right up when cold. If it's warm and dies it bleeds a little diesel into the cylinder and can take e few minutes to get it started back up. Said everything else is flawless.
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