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    #16
    In this day and age what do we really need a gunsmith for besides chambering of the rifle? Buy some headspace gauges from Manson and see if it is in speck, if not send it back


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      #17
      Originally posted by texasforever View Post
      In this day and age what do we really need a gunsmith for besides chambering of the rifle? Buy some headspace gauges from Manson and see if it is in speck, if not send it back


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      If it’s a factory rifle, I wouldn’t spend a dime on it. I’d send the gun and a box of factory ammo and make them fix it.


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        #18
        Originally posted by Mike D View Post
        If it’s a factory rifle, I wouldn’t spend a dime on it. I’d send the gun and a box of factory ammo and make them fix it.
        this x's 10,000

        regarding the dies, Whidden > Redding . John Whidden is one of us, an accuracy freak who also builds custom rifles and custom dies. He knows what shooters are looking for. I have several of his die sets. I also own Redding Type S FL and NS dies. Definitely get a set of dies that takes bushings.

        https://www.whiddengunworks.com/custom-reloading-dies/

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          #19
          Originally posted by texasforever View Post
          LE wilson sizing die, your choice of mandrel body (I’m partial to Sinclair for modularity), but the Frankford Arsenal Universal Micrometer seating die, and get to loading man! Just because you’re “hunting” doesn’t mean you should settle for any lesser quality of equipment or components.


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          Originally posted by muzzlebrake View Post
          If I had a gun that wouldn't chamber factory ammo the first thing I would do is have a gunsmith check it out or send it back to the factory. Sumting wong with head space or chamber dimensions if it won't chamber factory ammo.
          Originally posted by texasforever View Post
          In this day and age what do we really need a gunsmith for besides chambering of the rifle? Buy some headspace gauges from Manson and see if it is in speck, if not send it back


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Originally posted by Mike D View Post
          If it’s a factory rifle, I wouldn’t spend a dime on it. I’d send the gun and a box of factory ammo and make them fix it.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
          I will expand a little more. This is not a factory rifle that you can buy at a big box store. When I first got it, I was able to shoot a box of Hornady ELDX. Some round/shells/or any other term, was fine and some the bolt was hard to close.

          I called the company that built this and explained it to them while at the range. The informed me that they seen where "Hornady" was make "crap/not so good factory ammo" that had a lot of run out.

          I then proceeded to try and load various round from 5 other boxes that I had on had. None of these was able to load as the bolt would not close. I even had to force the bolt back with force a couple of times.

          I tried once more, this time it was really stuck. It took jerking the bolt back to get it out, how the brass and powder went fly and the bullet stayed stuck in the barrel.

          I sent the gun back along with the box of ammo back to the builder to look over and remove the stuck bullet. I was told that it was in fact the ammo from Hornady that was the issue. It had to much run out for the tight tolerances of this gun.

          This is my first custom/non big store bought rifle, so all this is new to me. Have I thought about selling it, yes, but I do not want someone else to have same result as me. Which is why I went down this path of reloading.

          I does shoot factory Nosler ammo, just not the Hornady ELDX or ELDM. On a side note, all of the factory ammo I had, I sold it to a friend as his rifle was able to chamber it with no issues.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Jon-Paul View Post
            I will expand a little more. This is not a factory rifle that you can buy at a big box store. When I first got it, I was able to shoot a box of Hornady ELDX. Some round/shells/or any other term, was fine and some the bolt was hard to close.

            I called the company that built this and explained it to them while at the range. The informed me that they seen where "Hornady" was make "crap/not so good factory ammo" that had a lot of run out.

            I then proceeded to try and load various round from 5 other boxes that I had on had. None of these was able to load as the bolt would not close. I even had to force the bolt back with force a couple of times.

            I tried once more, this time it was really stuck. It took jerking the bolt back to get it out, how the brass and powder went fly and the bullet stayed stuck in the barrel.

            I sent the gun back along with the box of ammo back to the builder to look over and remove the stuck bullet. I was told that it was in fact the ammo from Hornady that was the issue. It had to much run out for the tight tolerances of this gun.

            This is my first custom/non big store bought rifle, so all this is new to me. Have I thought about selling it, yes, but I do not want someone else to have same result as me. Which is why I went down this path of reloading.

            I does shoot factory Nosler ammo, just not the Hornady ELDX or ELDM. On a side note, all of the factory ammo I had, I sold it to a friend as his rifle was able to chamber it with no issues.

            OHHHHH that’s an easy one, gunsmith chambered it with really short free bore and you’re jamming the bullet in the lands. If you plan on reloading for this gun load up a dummy round that’s seated to the boat tail/neck shoulder junction and tell them you want it throated for this bullet +.0350


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              #21
              Or the guy used a neck turn reamer which will almost never chamber factory ammo, but if you stuck a bullet it’s most likely short freebore.


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                #22
                Now that we know more, it's a tight chamber and short freebore for sure. You will have to seat the bullets a little deeper and probably full length size your brass and bump the shoulder back at least .002.
                You gonna need some more tools. This one works good. Get the whole kit with all the inserts. https://www.hornady.com/reloading/pr...-comparator#!/
                A digital caliper too if you don't already have one. Digital is better than the dial IMO.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by muzzlebrake View Post
                  Now that we know more, it's a tight chamber and short freebore for sure. You will have to seat the bullets a little deeper and probably full length size your brass and bump the shoulder back at least .002.
                  You gonna need some more tools. This one works good. Get the whole kit with all the inserts. https://www.hornady.com/reloading/pr...-comparator#!/
                  A digital caliper too if you don't already have one. Digital is better than the dial IMO.

                  Thanks. I have those as well as digital calipers.

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                    #24
                    Jon-Paul you’ve gone about everything pretty much spot on and you’ve got a plan of attack that will result in a great outcome. Use quality products and you’ll end up with quality ammo for your gun. You have fired brass from your gun and the tools to measure the seating depth so your good.

                    As in everything in life you can find multiple ways to accomplish the same thing but from what you’ve stated you have the only thing I’d add to your tool kit is a LE Wilson case gage and micrometer for measuring shoulder bump. The Hornady set is so so but you like quality equipment so these are what I use and their dead nuts on every time.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Kong View Post
                      Jon-Paul you’ve gone about everything pretty much spot on and you’ve got a plan of attack that will result in a great outcome. Use quality products and you’ll end up with quality ammo for your gun. You have fired brass from your gun and the tools to measure the seating depth so your good.

                      As in everything in life you can find multiple ways to accomplish the same thing but from what you’ve stated you have the only thing I’d add to your tool kit is a LE Wilson case gage and micrometer for measuring shoulder bump. The Hornady set is so so but you like quality equipment so these are what I use and their dead nuts on every time.
                      Thanks. This is what I have gathered in the past 3-4 months. I know this is not everything I need, so I am open to other suggestions on what is needed.

                      Mitutoyo 293-340-30 Digital Micrometer
                      Mitutoyo 500-196-30 Advanced Onsite Sensor (AOS) Absolute Scale Digital Caliper
                      Hornady lock n load bullet comparator

                      Forester COAX Press
                      Redding Premium 6.5 PRC die set
                      Charge Master Link Powder Measure
                      Powder Funnel
                      Imperial Lube

                      10 x H1000
                      3 x Retumbo
                      5 x 4350
                      2 x N565
                      1 x N568

                      300 Lapua 6.5 PRC Brass
                      1000 GM210M Primers
                      300 x 140 gr Berger Elite Hunters (6.5) (This is what I plan to use)
                      300 x ELDX (6.5)
                      700 x 140 gr Accubonds (6.5)

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                        #26
                        Do the hack on that Chargemaster. It will speed it up a noticeable amount. https://youtu.be/p-DRJCL0D3A

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                          #27
                          I’d personally add the Wilson case gauge to that list,

                          For the primer seating tool I’ve used most all of them and currently have 4 different bench mounted models but I prefer the 21st century https://21stcenturyinnovation.com/bu...t-priming-tool

                          Go ahead and order this case trimmer, it’s going to be a long wait but we’ll worth it in the long run. If you need to trim brass prior to getting it I’m sure one of us have a trimmer that will get you by in the mean time or your welcome to send me the brass and I’ll trim it to your specs. Once you use this trimmer everything else sucks,,





                          On cleaning the brass, again I’ve got way to many but for what your going to be doing I’d buy a RCBS brass tumbler with SS Pins and a RCBS vibrating with corn Cobb media. The higher end models don’t work any better than these. You could probably get by with the Frankford and get the same result.

                          If were getting picky you can add a Labradar for working loads up and a bucket of patience and you can a great start. I love mine Once you start this journey you will be adding and trying all kinds of stuff you may or may not need LOL

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                            #28
                            I've been loading since 1970. I have seen about any problem that you can have with handloads. OP, PM if you have questions. I may not know the answer, but I will be happy to help you look.

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                              #29
                              i have used RCBS for over 30 years and have never been disappointed.

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                                #30
                                gun

                                Originally posted by Jon-Paul View Post
                                Due to having some issues with a rifle not shooting factory ammo (would not even chamber), I decided to start reloading. With the help of another gracious TBH'er, they was able to work up a load for this rifle.

                                Now the fun begins as I been doing a lot of reading on reloading but still have a hard time of deciding what dies I should get.

                                I currently have a Forster Press and Charge Master Link powder measure. Outside of that I need some dies. I was looking at the two below and would like to hear thoughts on them.

                                Redding
                                Shop online for shotshell and metallic reloading supplies, shooting supplies, metallic presses, rifle reloading components, shotshell reloading components, shooting accessories, rifle reloading brass and Bullets.


                                Whidden
                                https://www.precisionreloading.com/c...D&i=SETSB65PRC
                                I would be taking this gun to a gunsmith and find out while it is not chambering first before I even thought about reloading!!!!! That should never happen!!!!!

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