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    #31
    Originally posted by CJ776 View Post
    What is your okie calling road base? Make sure he is getting material that is TXdot or Odot approved.

    The material used for base for an asphalt road is a lot different than gravel for a private road. More fines, certain gradations, etc.

    You can pull TXDOT standard asphalt sections and material specs online I believe. I think you want TXDOT flex base.

    Paving subs weigh in?

    If you ultimately want asphalt you’ll probably want to use Geogrid on top of flexbase to make asphalt topping thin as possible as you probably don’t want to grade or mess with sub grade treatment.

    Might not hurt to ask some engineers/geotechs for recs?

    Sure local guys that do this all the time have way better input. Just thoughts on paper


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That doesn't make sense. You don't want to put geogrid on top of the base and it won't help you make the asphalt thinner.

    With a job of that size, lime stabilization of subgrade is cheaper and more effective than any geogrid.

    OP, depending on subgrade conditions, you should almost definitely stabilize the subgrade for your asphalt road. Also, as mentioned above, the base will need to be properly installed if you ever want to put asphalt on it.

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      #32
      Originally posted by El General View Post
      That doesn't make sense. You don't want to put geogrid on top of the base and it won't help you make the asphalt thinner.

      With a job of that size, lime stabilization of subgrade is cheaper and more effective than any geogrid.

      OP, depending on subgrade conditions, you should almost definitely stabilize the subgrade for your asphalt road. Also, as mentioned above, the base will need to be properly installed if you ever want to put asphalt on it.


      Geogrid below base* not above base. yes it can reduce asphalt course thickness


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #33
        One mile of asphalt is not cheap. The base will be half the cost then you add labor get ready for sticker shock.

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          #34
          Originally posted by Spearchunker View Post
          Dale, this is my first rodeo as far as roads go.

          I used an online calculator to get tons. I have approx 3000 feet of new road thru my land. I started with mulcher and he got about 1000 feet cleared and ready for dozer to shape and remove stumps. He cant go much further as it turns to rock and elevations.

          Meeting a road builder later in week to discuss final route and clearing. Thought I would hire out the base separate.

          I need a good base to start. Plan is to black top it after house is built and all contractors and equipment are gone.

          Not ready to hear what the black top will cost...
          Just for comparison I put 821 tons of crushed concrete on my 3000' driveway.




          This is what I was covering up.



          I might do asphalt later.

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            #35
            Originally posted by El General View Post
            That doesn't make sense. You don't want to put geogrid on top of the base and it won't help you make the asphalt thinner.

            With a job of that size, lime stabilization of subgrade is cheaper and more effective than any geogrid.

            OP, depending on subgrade conditions, you should almost definitely stabilize the subgrade for your asphalt road. Also, as mentioned above, the base will need to be properly installed if you ever want to put asphalt on it.
            I assure you if the large LNG project I’m working could’ve only limed the millions of square yards as opposed to laying down Lime&grid they surely would’ve done so.
            Last edited by JLivi1224; 02-01-2020, 05:57 AM.

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              #36
              I'm doing this now at my place up there. I was quoted about 7.80 a ton from dolese for 2.5" base. Hauler is charging 350 a load using a tractor trailer. 45 miles one way from plant.

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