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School me on diesel trucks

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    School me on diesel trucks

    I have came across a 2014 Ford F250 with the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel with 140k miles. I've never owned a diesel before and don't currently have a "need" for one. However, I would like to get another travel trailer, and will definitely be getting a center console boat. I know oil changes are more expensive, and fuel filters have to be changed. I'll do both of these myself. How much $ and how often does this need to be fine? What do I need to look for as far as common problems with F250s and 6.7 Powerstrokes?

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    #2
    Originally posted by Keith View Post
    I have came across a 2014 Ford F250 with the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel with 140k miles. I've never owned a diesel before and don't currently have a "need" for one. However, I would like to get another travel trailer, and will definitely be getting a center console boat. I know oil changes are more expensive, and fuel filters have to be changed. I'll do both of these myself. How much $ and how often does this need to be fine? What do I need to look for as far as common problems with F250s and 6.7 Powerstrokes?

    Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
    I drive a 2017 F-350 6.7. I also drive a 2017 Toyota Tundra daily. I do the maintenance on my 350 myself, and take the Tundra to get it done at a local joint that’s pretty cheap. They cost me the same on oil changes, but I spend $50 every 20K miles doing the fuel filters myself. That take 10 minutes tops. The expensive part is when something breaks, and tires don’t last as long.

    I guess I’ll add what I pay. I spend $90 on an oil change ever 10K miles on my 6.7, and $65 on an oil change every 7K miles on my Tundra. Fuel is about the same, but that’s because Tundras are about the least efficient truck to ever be produced in the 20th century. My 350 is on 37s, and still gets better mileage. Diesel is just slightly more expensive though.
    Last edited by TX03RUBI; 07-29-2021, 05:23 PM.

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      #3
      School me on diesel trucks

      I drive a 2019 F250 and will reiterate what Anthony said. If you’re going to do your oil changes and fuel filters, maintenance costs are not bad at all. It costs me about $80 to change my oil every 10k miles using Rotella Full Synthetic and $50 for fuel filters every 15k. (Motorcraft Fuel Filters are much cheaper on Amazon than at the dealer)

      It seems like the main issues you see with modern diesels are CP4 fuel pump failures due to bad fuel and emissions issues. My emissions system fell off my pickup, so I don’t have to worry about that anymore. I always try fill up at high volume fuel stations to prevent bad fuel and also use Hotshots EDT additive to be safe.

      With that said, it’s pretty hard to go wrong with the 6.7. They are great engines and have more power than you will ever need.
      Last edited by Raider4044; 07-29-2021, 07:15 PM.

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        #4
        Tell me is the truck I found is a good deal, or not. I would only buy it if it's a good deal. If I don't like it, I'd like to get my money back out of it.


        It is a 2014 Lariat, FX4 Off Road, loaded with everything other than a sun roof. Crew Cab on 35X12.50R20LT (will need to be replaced in about a year) with leather heated and cooled seats, navigation, backup camera (camera has a short, it sometimes stops working) 140k miles, dual climate control, factory 5th wheel hitch and a heavy duty replacement front bumper. What should this truck sell for, what would be a fair price?

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          #5
          Maintenance is not a huge cost relatively speaking to the overall cost. Repair is a different story. Seems like nothing is cheaper than 1k on newer diesel trucks and heaven forbid a catastrophic failure. If you get the truck make sure you use the right weight oil. I am pretty sure in our climate they reccoment 5w40. A reputable engine builder has said that every stock 6.7 he has gotten that was bad was due to a spun bearing and when asked what oil they used it was always a heavier weight oil. Tolerances are super tight on these engines and require a lighter oil.

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            #6
            Kbb says around 33k

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              #7
              How much would it cost to delete and is it worth it? He said on the highway it will get about 18 mpg, does that sound like an honest number?

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                #8
                I had a 05 chevy and hust sold it as you know. It got 15-16 so 18 is good.Routine maintenance is not that much more if you do it yourself. Repairs are all expensive now a days. The miles on the one your looking at are not an issue at 140000. I always look at the beds in trucks. If all beat up I moved on. Thats just me.
                Look around the ball area. If its all beat up then it pulled a lot. Find out from the owner what it was it pulled. The 6.7 is a good motor. The 6.0 had a lot of issues.
                Look at KBB and use the average quote. If you think its a good deal and like it buy it.
                Just remember at the pump..Put diesel in it !!

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Keith View Post
                  How much would it cost to delete and is it worth it? He said on the highway it will get about 18 mpg, does that sound like an honest number?

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                  I have not had my Ford deleted yet . Was told it can be done for 1200 for just the def delete. And another 1200 for the egr delete.
                  It was definitely worth it when I had my duramax’s deleted.

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                    #10
                    My 2016 got 14.1 average over 105,000 miles.If you don't delete it,it will need a def heater soon;if not already replaced.Buy fuel where they sell lots of it.

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                      #11
                      All the diesels I had were pre DEF but they were all tuned. It was absolutely worth it. For smoking some kid in what he thought was a fast car in a truck with farm plates alone it was worth it

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                        #12
                        FWIW- the 2011-2014's came with 400hp/800 ft/lb torque.

                        in 2015 the numbers jumped to 440/860
                        Then another bump in 2017- 440/925
                        Than again even higher in 2020+

                        Meaning- the mpg's on the 2011-14's will be higher than the following years- more hp/torque = more fuel required.

                        Bigger wheels/ tires and a replacement front bumper = decrease in mpg's from factory.
                        The 18's he's claiming sound about right, but saying "it gets 18 on the highway" vs a tank to tank comparison including exhaust regen cycles are 2 different things.

                        Also the early years had ceramic bearings in the turbo that liked to fail, I'm pretty sure they went a different path in 2013+ trucks.

                        I deleted a 2011 I had at 92k and drove until 155ish on the clock.

                        It got waaaay better fuel economy than my current 2019 does.
                        2011 deleted= 18.5-22mpg a tank (3.31 gears, stock tires), 2019- 16-17.5 (3.55 gears, stock everything).


                        At 140k, new shocks and body mounts are in order if he hasn't replaced them already. My a/c was acting squirrely at 155k (would freeze up on recirc mode when towing).
                        Last edited by DaveC; 07-30-2021, 05:04 AM.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Keith View Post
                          How much would it cost to delete and is it worth it? He said on the highway it will get about 18 mpg, does that sound like an honest number?

                          Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

                          Not sure about the delete $ , but that 18 mpg is probably strictly driving down the road. I average right at 16 with quite a few highway miles in my stock ‘14.


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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Keith View Post
                            How much would it cost to delete and is it worth it? He said on the highway it will get about 18 mpg, does that sound like an honest number?

                            Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
                            So you are getting really low numbers on fuel filter and oil change prices. I run Rotella T6 full synthetic, with WIX filters, and I am usually in each oil change about $150-180. I do them myself, usually about every 7500 miles. MPG, if I had to guess, is between 14-18. I also tow our TT, and the gauge in the dash says 9 mpg, but the gauge is usually 2 gallons off over an entire tank, so real mpg is probably closer to 8 or less.

                            18 mpg? No doesn't sound like a real number. My 2012 weighs, with a topper shell, at 8400 lbs. It's a heavy truck. With those rims/bigger tires on that truck, the weight only goes up, not to mention the amount of power to spin a larger diameter wheel. You can reasonably expect 15-18 mpg. A delete cost my friend about 2,700, 9 years ago. I imagine it's cheaper now. And I would do the delete ASAP, but put a good muffler on the truck so you don't have to listen to it drone pulling your TT.

                            Also, I disagree with Dave's interpretation of more power equals worse MPG. If I run my truck in the extreme tune (650 hp and 1200 ft lbs), I get the most distance on a full tank. If I run in the stock tune (400 hp, 800 ft lbs), I don't get near as far on a full tank. I don't know what the numbers actually are, but I know the tank goes empty much faster. He is right about the ceramic bearings, though my 2012 has 177k on the clock, and knock on wood, no issues with the turbo or fuel pump. The truck has been absolutely bulletproof.

                            Buy it. You will love it. I've had mine 9 years now, and I still smile when I get in it every day.

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                              #15
                              Thanks for the info guys, I'm learning a lot. Keep it coming.

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