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-   -   The adventure begins. Blind build (https://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730028)

texan4ut 04-25-2019 09:30 AM

The adventure begins. Blind build
 
3 Attachment(s)
Going to build a 6x6 rifle blind. 1" 14ga square tubing frame. It will be on a 8 foot tower. I am a novice when it comes to welding so not sure how it will turn out. As they say the turtle only makes progress when he sticks his neck out. This will be built in 4 sections so I can lift one section/side up bolt it down then lift up the next bolt it down and to the 1st. I will most likely be putting it on the tower by myself so this is the best way I think to do it. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I have the frame squared up clamped down level, corners cleaned and ready to stick it together.

Tubby 04-25-2019 09:31 AM

Looking forward to updates. Good luck and remember, measure twice, cut once! ;)b

STONE KILLER 04-25-2019 09:35 AM

Following


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Crazy Horse 04-25-2019 09:39 AM

following...

texan4ut 04-25-2019 09:32 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Made some progress today. Got the frame welded. Not pretty but they awill hold I think. Mocked up the window openings. Was going to buy deerview windows. I thought 25.00 a window wasn't that bad although more than I wanted to pay. After I added them to my cart shipping was another 20.00 dollars. I guess I will build my own.

thehunted 04-26-2019 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by texan4ut (Post 14118080)
Made some progress today. Got the frame welded. Not pretty but they awill hold I think. Mocked up the window openings. Was going to buy deerview windows. I thought 25.00 a window wasn't that bad although more than I wanted to pay. After I added them to my cart shipping was another 20.00 dollars. I guess I will build my own.


We offer a TBH discount if you call our office.

hog_down 04-26-2019 08:34 AM

also following.

AgHntr10 04-26-2019 09:33 AM

Get the deerview windows you won't regret it!

I am planning on another build this offseason and will probably be getting one of their doors as well.

smokeless 04-28-2019 08:39 PM

Are you running flux core ??

texan4ut 04-29-2019 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokeless (Post 14122209)
Are you running flux core ??

.030 Flux core.

texan4ut 05-11-2019 03:11 PM

4 Attachment(s)
I got most of my windows made. Framed up the door and ply the plywood on the inside. part. Next week I will get the blue foam insulation and glue it to the ply wood, them R-panel for the out side.

Mexico 05-11-2019 03:37 PM

Gonna be heavy duty!! Looks good so far! ;)b

texan4ut 05-14-2019 11:29 AM

3 Attachment(s)
I have a question for the welders on here. My blind build will be in 4 sections and a roof. The blind will be transported to the site then each wall will be put up and bolted together. My problem is when the panels are fitted together I will not have access to the bolt head as it will be covered with insulation & R-panel I could cut an access hole to the blot hole and use a extension on a ratchet to tighten the bolt, or I was thinking of welding the bolt on then just slip the other panel on to the bolt and tighten. What do you guys think.

Big_gun 05-14-2019 11:55 AM

weld nut on back of one of the clips and bolt it from the other side...thats one of the issues with skinning interior. It appears the tab from one side would be exposed to the adjacent tab, thus allowing a nut to be welded and skinned over or at least up to the tab.

ballgame 05-14-2019 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big_gun (Post 14148318)
weld nut on back of one of the clips and bolt it from the other side...thats one of the issues with skinning interior. It appears the tab from one side would be exposed to the adjacent tab, thus allowing a nut to be welded and skinned over or at least up to the tab.

I second the above, weld a nut on the back of one of the tabs.

*** a quick tip, thread a bolt through the nut when you weld the nut to the tab. That way if you get the nut too hot it wont mess up the thread. Once the nut cools remove the bolt. That or after you weld the nut on you can re-thread the nut. This will save you from some serious aggravation when assembling in the field. Don't ask me how I know! :(

Quackerbox 05-15-2019 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballgame (Post 14148797)
I second the above, weld a nut on the back of one of the tabs.

*** a quick tip, thread a bolt through the nut when you weld the nut to the tab. That way if you get the nut too hot it wont mess up the thread. Once the nut cools remove the bolt. That or after you weld the nut on you can re-thread the nut. This will save you from some serious aggravation when assembling in the field. Don't ask me how I know! :(

I was going to suggest welding the nut on as well.

Welding the bolt would work also and may help with assembly. You could mount one section then your bolts would act as 'pins' to steady the next till you get a nut threaded. Of course then youd be trying to fit the bolt to the hole while holding one section while balancing in the air about the time youd drop your nuts


Take some of those clamps to use as extra hands when you get to the lease.



Tell me about the windows you built...material for frame, glass etc

texan4ut 05-15-2019 10:58 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Quackerbox (Post 14149757)
I was going to suggest welding the nut on as well.

Welding the bolt would work also and may help with assembly. You could mount one section then your bolts would act as 'pins' to steady the next till you get a nut threaded. Of course then youd be trying to fit the bolt to the hole while holding one section while balancing in the air about the time youd drop your nuts


Take some of those clamps to use as extra hands when you get to the lease.



Tell me about the windows you built...material for frame, glass etc

Thanks for the tips guys. On the windows I use aluminum Screen frame from Lowes, comes in 7 foot sections for about 4.00 then the corners are 1.98 per package of four. I cut them to size these are 12x24. The plexiglass I ordered off of Amazon. 6 per package 60.00. I remove the film on one side then use goop to attach the plexi to the frame. Hinges I ordered on line from a company Global Industrial. They are about 3.00 each. I can post links for the plexi and hinges. I will get some better pictures when I get a chance.

Quackerbox 05-15-2019 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by texan4ut (Post 14150062)
Thanks for the tips guys. On the windows I use aluminum Screen frame from Lowes, comes in 7 foot sections for about 4.00 then the corners are 1.98 per package of four. I cut them to size these are 12x24. The plexiglass I ordered off of Amazon. 6 per package 60.00. I remove the film on one side then use goop to attach the plexi to the frame. Hinges I ordered on line from a company Global Industrial. They are about 3.00 each. I can post links for the plexi and hinges. I will get some better pictures when I get a chance.

Preciate it!

I like that idea

AgHntr10 05-15-2019 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by texan4ut (Post 14150062)
Thanks for the tips guys. On the windows I use aluminum Screen frame from Lowes, comes in 7 foot sections for about 4.00 then the corners are 1.98 per package of four. I cut them to size these are 12x24. The plexiglass I ordered off of Amazon. 6 per package 60.00. I remove the film on one side then use goop to attach the plexi to the frame. Hinges I ordered on line from a company Global Industrial. They are about 3.00 each. I can post links for the plexi and hinges. I will get some better pictures when I get a chance.

Good information! Tagging for later

texan4ut 06-04-2019 11:05 AM

4 Attachment(s)
I got the steel to begin either the back side with the door or one of the sides. Trying to decide which. I was at my Mom's over the week end there was an old barn me and my Dad built many years ago that got destroyed in a storm about 10 years ago. Couldn't remember what we built it out of. I went and took a look and it is R-panel. I was able to salvage plenty to skin the walls and roof of my blind. 140.00 savings right there vs new.

texan4ut 07-17-2019 02:18 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Update. Got three sides finished and ready to weld the clips on. Once they are welded I will be able to unbolt it then bolt it back together at the site on my lease. Next is the rear with door. I think I am going to offset the door to one side which will give me a longer space for shelves. What do folks think.

lilbradford 07-18-2019 07:41 AM

Lookin good. How low are those windows? Might just be the angle but they seem pretty low.

What did the steel square tubing run you?

texan4ut 07-18-2019 11:10 AM

the windows are 34" from the bottom. The steel I am buying one side at a time as my budget allows. 7 6' 1x1 14ga runs about 75.00 I have the steel for the back side will need to buy it for the roof frame.

RW2016 07-18-2019 03:28 PM

Where are you buying your steel from?
$75 for 7 - 6' 1x1 14ga is way to expensive.
Im paying $0.80 a ft for it in Northeast Tx

texan4ut 07-19-2019 08:51 AM

It figures out 1.42 a foot here but there is no competition. There are 3 places to buy Metals4U is the closest, there is a place in Georgetown that is about the same price, another place in Taylor is a little cheaper but by the time I make the 35 mile round trip I don't save much.


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