Newbie arrow question

[Jmh05]

I'm looking at ordering Gold Tip Traditional Hunter Arrows

Here are my set ups-

47lb Bear Kodiak
50lb Fleetwood (Cabelas Warden)

Arrow length 27.5"
Field point and BH weight 125 grains

Looks like based on their chart I am between a 400 spine at 9.3 GPI or a 500 spine at 8.6 GPI

Any recommendations on arrow spine or are there other arrows I should look at?

I'd prefer to cut and helical fletch my own arrows with 5.5" feathers, but not quite there on acquiring all of that equipment more less have a shop for it all yet.

Also this is what I've ordered for the new bow so far-

[Dkincaid]

What is you draw length? With a 27.5 arrow I'm guessing it must be around 26 which puts you 6# below marked weight. The Kodiak won't be a center cut as the Fleetwood. String types can cause as much as 5# spine change on a bow. If it were me and I wanted 125 grain points I'd get full length 600 spine carbons and tune by cutting. If you want more tip weight which isn't a bad idea you could go with 500 spine full length arrows and tune by cutting and adding weighted inserts and tips to get them right. The 600 spine or 1535 arrows will be easier to tune for both bows in my opinion.

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[Dkincaid]

By adjusting your strike plate thickness you can make any arrow that is too light of spine work as long as it's not dangerously light. The only way to make a stiff arrow work is to add point weight until it flexes properly. Alot of folks over spine their arrows because most of the spine charts are not correct for traditional bows. You can get a decent ball park with the three Rivers spine calculator but you will still have to tune either your bow or your shaft to your particular shooting style and release.

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[Jmh05]

Correct, my draw is 26.5inches.

I was planning on bumping up to 125gr BH and points, to get more weight. I've been shooting 100gr.

There's a lot of science behind all of this...trying to take it all in. Most of the advice above is a bit over my head. I will have to google strike plate thickness...newbie here to this complex world of trad science.

I will primarily be hunting with the Warden bow. The Bear bow is going on the wall hopefully soon.

[Dkincaid]

I'd suggest this book as it's fairly inexpensive on Amazon and will be a valuable resource to learn from.

http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/

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[SwampRabbit]

Are those draw weights at your draw length? Those arrow length/spines look off to me. I would guess more like 600 spine at that arrow length and weight.

As a comparison, for 48@27, I am shooting 500s cut to 29" and still need 225 gr up front.

I think you are more between 500 and 600.

Another arrow shaft to look at is Carbon Express Heritage.

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[Jmh05]

Are those draw weights at your draw length? Those arrow length/spines look off to me. I would guess more like 600 spine at that arrow length and weight.

As a comparison, for 48@27, I am shooting 500s cut to 29" and still need 225 gr up front.

I think you are more between 500 and 600.

Another arrow shaft to look at is Carbon Express Heritage.

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How do you get that weight up front?
Insert is like 14gr
BH 125

Do you use extremely heave grain BH's?


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[SwampRabbit]

How do you get that weight up front?
Insert is like 14gr
BH 125

Do you use extremely heave grain BH's?


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I shoot a 175 gr BH. There are several BHs you can find that are heavier than 125. They are typically marketed to trad shooters. The advantage of having your broadhead heavy is that it usually means more steal behind the edge.

I then add 50 gr insert adapter weight. GT and CX shafts have inserts that you can screw additional weights to. Other folks use 100gr brass inserts and 125/150gr heads.

I opted for 175 +50 because I like the beefier heads.

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[DRT]

I have some arrows I shoot 100 grain heads but I have 75 grain insert weights screwed into the back of the aluminum inserts making my total weight up front 175. I also have 175 grain heads I shoot out of arrows without insert weights.

Gary

[DRT]

Also I've used the 3rivers arrow selection chart. And you will get dang close with it.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/dynamic-spine-arrow-calculator-from-3rivers-archery.html

Gary

[Jmh05]

Also I've used the 3rivers arrow selection chart. And you will get dang close with it.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/dynamic-spine-arrow-calculator-from-3rivers-archery.html

Gary

Thanks. That's what I've been using. Did look at the Carbon Express Heritage 150's (10.11gpi).

I may go with those plus 100gr brass inserts with 125gr Magnus stingers. That would put me a little over 500grains.

That's my current calculation...

[DRT]

If that balances your numbers then tweaking with BH and nock adjustment should give you good arrow flight.

Gary

[SwampRabbit]

Thanks. That's what I've been using. Did look at the Carbon Express Heritage 150's (10.11gpi).

I may go with those plus 100gr brass inserts with 125gr Magnus stingers. That would put me a little over 500grains.

That's my current calculation...

Whatever you do, buy full length shafts and don't cut them to the calculator detemined length. Use hot melt glue and keep the shafts longer by a few inches and cut them off a little at a time until you get them flying right.

That calculator has been known to be wrong, but is usually pretty close.

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[tradslam]

What swamp rabbit said, buy full length and chop them off as u tune. 600s might work, 500s will for sure if your ok possibly shooting a longer arrow or front loading a shorter one

[Bisch]

If you want to end up with a 27.5" arrow, DO NOT go with the .400. You will have to add a ton of weight to a .400 that short to make it work from a 47# bow!!!

Bisch