Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Selfbows

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Slow during tillering process. That's the only way I can do it without breaking it. Start at way heavier than you need. Heavy enough that you can't brace it. Then use a scraper to remove belly material. Checking for hinges and flat spots often. Using only a scraper will insure that you go slow enough. You will want to grab a more aggressive tool because you won't see much weight coming off at first. Refrain. You may come out with a kids bow if you go too fast. Sorry just rambling. I love the selfbow subject. Thank you Swamprabbit for bringing this up.

    Comment


      #32
      Beautiful bows! I need to get me a stave or two of Osage and make an attempt at making me one. I do have a couple Osage trees on my place begging me to cut them for staves.

      Comment


        #33
        I completely agree......Osage is the best. Also, if you don't have a tillering gizmo you'll definitely want to make or acquire one. Use the search feature in the bowyer's bench on TG to see Erik Krewson's thread on that.

        Comment


          #34
          Tillering gizmos are the one tool i wont scrape a bow without....very very helpful!!

          Comment


            #35
            Here's my favourite selfbow. It's an English longbow made out of eastern red cedar. I'm working on another one, too.


            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by Green View Post
              I agree on the tools list. There are a few other things like a clear ruler, sand paper from 60 grit to at least 320. Two of my favorite tools are my Nicholson 49 & 50 rasps. Also....learning how to properly setup your cabinet scraper(s) is a big help.

              Clay Hayes has three great first time bowyer videos on YT, and you can learn a lot about forms, tillering, and bandsaw use from Gary Davis' video "Rattlestick".
              I am starting to become a big fan of Clay. I bought his new book that contains several short stories. His online videos are pretty easy to follow.

              Originally posted by Pigthumper View Post
              Slow during tillering process. That's the only way I can do it without breaking it. Start at way heavier than you need. Heavy enough that you can't brace it. Then use a scraper to remove belly material. Checking for hinges and flat spots often. Using only a scraper will insure that you go slow enough. You will want to grab a more aggressive tool because you won't see much weight coming off at first. Refrain. You may come out with a kids bow if you go too fast. Sorry just rambling. I love the selfbow subject. Thank you Swamprabbit for bringing this up.
              You're welcome! I'm glad there are more than just a couple TBHers that enjoy building selfbows.

              I think sometimes, you gotta push that limit of how much is too much in order to learn how slow is slow (especially if you don't get to learn the cadence first hand from somebody.)

              I was aiming for that board bow to be somewhere in the 30lb range. It ended up at 20lbs. Looking back, some of it was because I didn't have a good feel for when to switch to tillering at brace. Some of it definitely had to do with not caring as much about making a 40+ lb bow and instead paying attention to how it was bending and looking for a "bow" shape.


              Originally posted by 4dog View Post
              Tillering gizmos are the one tool i wont scrape a bow without....very very helpful!!
              I should have made one of those. I instead used a block of wood and used my eyes to watch the gap as I moved it across the belly. I had one limb that just seemed to be perfect... and yet another than would just develop hinges.

              The other thing that I proved to myself was that I definitely needed a really good/symmetrical backdrop to see the shape of the bow and now how much one limb is bending more than others. I drilled it to the fence post knowing it was probably going to give me fits, and it did. What I need to do is clear a wall in the garage and draw lines on the wall and mount the tiller tree there so I can get a better idea of what it is I am looking at.

              All-in-all, I am pleased with my first attempt. There were so many ways I figured this thing would fail, and for the most part, I skirted the edge. It isn't a "shooter" per-se... but it does shoot an arrow and with a little more zip than I expected for a 20lb bow.

              Comment


                #37
                Where did you guys get your draw knife? Did you buy a new one, or did you pick up a used one online/flee market/garage sale/etc.

                Also curious what you guys use for a vise to hold the stave. Did you just use a vise on an existing workbench or something else entirely.

                Comment


                  #38
                  A friend gave me my draw knife. I don't know where he got it. You could probably get one on ebay, though.

                  I attached a vice to a 2x4, and I clamped the 2x4 to my work bench with a bar clamp and a C-clamp.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    When it comes to draw knives the older the better. Look at antique shops or garage sales. The new ones aren't even close to comparing with one hand forged in the 20's. I ordered a new one and aquired an old one. New ones blade will turn on Osage. The old one makes it through 3 or 4 bows before it needs sharpening.

                    I ratchet strapped a saw horse to a steel column and clamp to that.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      What is a good draw knife maker? At least in your experience. Seems to be quite a few makers from way back when and I am sure there were cheapy versions then too.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        I love that ERC ELB Sam! Got a couple of projects I have to finish first, then I'll give mine a split and a go.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          All the old good draw knives I've seen or have don't have any brand markings. Seems they were all worn off. I know mine has a number on it. Got me curious now. I'll have to do some research on than number.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Things just got real!



                            Thanks 4dog!
                            Last edited by SwampRabbit; 05-07-2016, 04:10 PM.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              The best of luck to ya sir. The hard work begins!

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Your welcome scott ...tell your wife i apologize in advance because it will be bow this bow that stave this stave that and your gonna be a mess of purple and yellow and youll see what i mean...good luck any questions call me or arvin or thumper...we will get you a couple of bows out of that stave ...hopefully.

                                Pigthumper i warned him ...this aint gonna be like building a board bow by any stretch...he seems up to the challenge though !

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X