Slow during tillering process. That's the only way I can do it without breaking it. Start at way heavier than you need. Heavy enough that you can't brace it. Then use a scraper to remove belly material. Checking for hinges and flat spots often. Using only a scraper will insure that you go slow enough. You will want to grab a more aggressive tool because you won't see much weight coming off at first. Refrain. You may come out with a kids bow if you go too fast. Sorry just rambling. I love the selfbow subject. Thank you Swamprabbit for bringing this up.
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Originally posted by Green View PostI agree on the tools list. There are a few other things like a clear ruler, sand paper from 60 grit to at least 320. Two of my favorite tools are my Nicholson 49 & 50 rasps. Also....learning how to properly setup your cabinet scraper(s) is a big help.
Clay Hayes has three great first time bowyer videos on YT, and you can learn a lot about forms, tillering, and bandsaw use from Gary Davis' video "Rattlestick".
Originally posted by Pigthumper View PostSlow during tillering process. That's the only way I can do it without breaking it. Start at way heavier than you need. Heavy enough that you can't brace it. Then use a scraper to remove belly material. Checking for hinges and flat spots often. Using only a scraper will insure that you go slow enough. You will want to grab a more aggressive tool because you won't see much weight coming off at first. Refrain. You may come out with a kids bow if you go too fast. Sorry just rambling. I love the selfbow subject. Thank you Swamprabbit for bringing this up.
I think sometimes, you gotta push that limit of how much is too much in order to learn how slow is slow (especially if you don't get to learn the cadence first hand from somebody.)
I was aiming for that board bow to be somewhere in the 30lb range. It ended up at 20lbs. Looking back, some of it was because I didn't have a good feel for when to switch to tillering at brace. Some of it definitely had to do with not caring as much about making a 40+ lb bow and instead paying attention to how it was bending and looking for a "bow" shape.
Originally posted by 4dog View PostTillering gizmos are the one tool i wont scrape a bow without....very very helpful!!
The other thing that I proved to myself was that I definitely needed a really good/symmetrical backdrop to see the shape of the bow and now how much one limb is bending more than others. I drilled it to the fence post knowing it was probably going to give me fits, and it did. What I need to do is clear a wall in the garage and draw lines on the wall and mount the tiller tree there so I can get a better idea of what it is I am looking at.
All-in-all, I am pleased with my first attempt. There were so many ways I figured this thing would fail, and for the most part, I skirted the edge. It isn't a "shooter" per-se... but it does shoot an arrow and with a little more zip than I expected for a 20lb bow.
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When it comes to draw knives the older the better. Look at antique shops or garage sales. The new ones aren't even close to comparing with one hand forged in the 20's. I ordered a new one and aquired an old one. New ones blade will turn on Osage. The old one makes it through 3 or 4 bows before it needs sharpening.
I ratchet strapped a saw horse to a steel column and clamp to that.
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Your welcome scott ...tell your wife i apologize in advance because it will be bow this bow that stave this stave that and your gonna be a mess of purple and yellow and youll see what i mean...good luck any questions call me or arvin or thumper...we will get you a couple of bows out of that stave ...hopefully.
Pigthumper i warned him ...this aint gonna be like building a board bow by any stretch...he seems up to the challenge though !
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