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    Exterior house wall replacement questions

    About to replace an exterior wall on the house. It is an old garage that was walled up to make an interior room of the house. Pic is attached. Going to be using wood exterior plywood siding then paint the hell out of it. Caulk all the seams around the edges to seal them. But my question is how to go about sealing the bottom join on the concrete slab? Metal flashing caulked/sealed to the ground then attach siding? Just caulk it? Get roofers sealant and paint it the side and on the concrete? Any thoughts appreciated. Pic attached shortly.

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    #2
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      #3
      Can you tell if there is a dust stop on the inside of the wall? Is the concrete floor 1.5" taller inside than outside? If so, nothing is really needed. If not, good luck.

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        #4
        Originally posted by mikemorvan View Post
        Can you tell if there is a dust stop on the inside of the wall? Is the concrete floor 1.5" taller inside than outside? If so, nothing is really needed. If not, good luck.

        Pretty sure it is just flat concrete haven’t tore it apart yet to see. Replacing the old single pane windows with new and looking to fix any moisture damage and actually seal up that wall. Currently all cracked out and no insulation. Was an after thought added in later and they just threw up siding from what I can tell no sealant.


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          #5
          If it's flat, I'd use roofing sealant and flashing just to keep the water out.

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            #6
            ^^^^ What he saying.

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              #7
              Tar paper over the studs all the way to the ground with enough on the ground for the siding to sit on. Trim off excess tar paper then caulk the bottom good.

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                #8
                You could always use a product like red guard on the first layer of wood siding. Then attach a finish layer of hardy product on the outside of the wood siding. I like the tar paper or heavy poly wrap between the studs and first layer too.

                Good luck.

                Tim

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                  #9
                  Spend a few extra dollars, and upgrade to a Hardie product (cement board) so you don' have to make this repair again due to rot.

                  You can get siding that looks very similar.

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                    #10
                    I would use Marine sealant...………
                    I think it's called, marine sigaflex……….
                    or something like that.....
                    It's the stuff they use to seal, windows, hatches, or thru hull fittings
                    on sail boats...…………….just trying to help
                    google.....……..

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                      #11
                      Exterior house wall replacement questions

                      Flashing, hardie, quality sealant, and quality paint. Should be good to go for 20 years.
                      Last edited by scotth89; 07-07-2020, 08:28 PM.

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                        #12
                        I'd use Hardie Panel instead of T111 siding. You won't have as much to worry about

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                          #13
                          Couple iv done got caulk bead under bottom plate, tyvek over osb, roll peel and stick flashing at all seams and corners, lip flashing at bottom, Hardie board, 1x2 or 1x4 trim caulked and painted.

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                            #14
                            I like the LP Siding product SMARTSIDE over Hardie. It is easier to handle and work with and not near as fragile as Hardie.

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                              #15
                              You need to pull some siding off to see the bottom plate.

                              Flashing and sealant. Make sure the siding doesn't set on the concrete, it will hold water and rot. Even Hardi with deteriorate with prolonged moisture. Everything needs to breathe.

                              Sikaflex-1a is a premium-grade, high-performance, moisture-cured, 1-component, polyurethane-based, non-sag elastomeric sealant. Sikaflex-1a can be used in green and damp concrete applications.

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