Conservative reloading manuals

[txfireguy2003]

Part rant here, with a couple questions. I know there are many variables that I likely don't understand 100%, and I'm well aware of most companies' aversion to liability, but I can't figure this out. After testing my newly built 7mm mag Friday with factory ammo, i purchased the dies and components to work on a hand load for it. I chose 175gr ELD-X, Winchester brass, H-1000 and Federal 215 magnum match primers to start with. When I got home, I realized my Hornady 9th Edition manual doesn't have the ELD-X bullets listed, so I went with their other 175gr recommendations for H-1000. I usually start in the middle of the manual's range because I know they're normally pretty conservative, so I started with 57gr, thinking to myself "dang, seems like I've put more powder than that in a 270 before, and I KNOW my 6.5 WSM case takes 65.5gr......hmmmm" Oh well, so I loaded up to about 0.5gr above the listed max of 60.4gr. That still seemed awful conservative to me so I started searching online and found that almost everyone who runs this bullet, or any other 175gr bullet with H1000 in 7mm Rem Mag is running it up closer to 69-71gr and claiming to see no pressure signs, also getting 200-300 more FPS than the Hornady manual estimates.

So I looked in my Speer manual at their 175gr loads and it suggests 61-62gr of H1000 is the STARTING load, going up to 66gr! My Berger manual even listed 66gr as the max charge for a 180 class bullet.

Is this normal for the Hornady manual to 10+% low on charge weights compared to others? I'm having a real hard time with their max being below the Speer manual's starting load. Makes me doubt everything about trusting my manuals. What say you?

So now I'm all messed up. I've got a bunch of rounds put together that are below recommended starting charge that I'll probably tear down, but that means I've got to go buy the bullet puller collet for 7mm bullets.

Anybody here run a similar combination in 7mm Rem Mag? If so, what is your pet load?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[cattlelackranch]

I feel your pain. You ought to see the huge variance between Speer and hornady on 10mm.

There are so many variables.

Case capacity
Powder lot
Barrel length
Chamber size
Primers
Bullet seating depth
That days personality
Bullet profile
Yada yada etc...

You get the idea.
Pick a starting load and work up looking for pressure signs using a chronograph. Usually velocity will give you a good idea of where you are at pressure wise.

That's why I don't understand why guys work up a load and then strap on a magnospeed. I want to see velocity as I'm working on a load and not after. That is the main reason why I went with the labradar.

[txfireguy2003]

I feel your pain. You ought to see the huge variance between Speer and hornady on 10mm.

There are so many variables.

Case capacity
Powder lot
Barrel length
Chamber size
Primers
Bullet seating depth
That days personality
Bullet profile
Yada yada etc...

You get the idea.
Pick a starting load and work up looking for pressure signs using a chronograph. Usually velocity will give you a good idea of where you are at pressure wise.

That's why I don't understand why guys work up a load and then strap on a magnospeed. I want to see velocity as I'm working on a load and not after. That is the main reason why I went with the labradar.

I'm with you on the magnetospeed comment, but unfortunately, i'm one of those guys..... bought the magnetospeed before the labradar came out. Can't trust the accuracy with the magneto because it affects harmonics. I usually run from start load to max (or until I see pressure signs) in one string of fire, one round per load like a ladder test. Then take the magnetospeed off and go back for group testing.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[cattlelackranch]

That is a smart way to use it.

Sorry I don't have any 7mm info for you as I don't reload for it. Is this for your rifle you just built on your lathe?

I've been watching you on that. Gotta admit I'm kinda impressed and jealous! Pretty cool

[muzzlebrake]

One other tidbit. All brass is not created equal. Some brass will handle higher pressures and some is just plain junk. If I was using new unfired Norma brass or once fired brass from premium boxed ammo I would not hesitate to start off at near maximum load. Also remember most factory is using proprietary powder that we cannot get and every powder lot number can vary.

On belted ammo the factory round head spaces off the belt but once fired it will head space off the shoulder due to case stretch and expansion. Therefore when I reload belted brass I like to neck size to just a tiny fraction into the shoulder but not enough to push the case back all the way to the belt. This gives me a tiny amount more case volume to help with pressure and allows the cartridge to easily seat in the chamber.

If'n I was reloading 7mm Rem Mag and using Barnes 175gr pills I would use H1000 65 to 66 grs or RL22 60-62 grs. Barnes is about the only bullets I use anymore since I get better velocity and accuracy along with lower pressures and less fouling using these grooved bullets.

[txfireguy2003]

Yes, it's for the one I built. I'm pretty pleased with it, although there were a few hiccups, it seems to shoot pretty well with factory ammo. I've only got one rifle that shoots as well with factory as it does with handloads, and that's my 308. It just really loves 168gr AMAX bullets, no matter how they're loaded it seems, and it eats 168gr FGMM like candy too. Hard to beat one hole groups.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[xman59]

this has been an ongoing issue not with just manuals but a lot of factory ammo also,, i started as an leo in 1981,,,, almost any ammo i bought then for anything but 38 special was much hotter than most loads now,,, only in the last couple of years have a couple of manufacturers started bringing full power loads back on the market

[SabreKiller]

I noticed the same thing when searching for loads for my 6.5 Swede. The old Barnes book has loads in it that are significantly hotter than what hey have online now. I sent them an email inquiring about the difference and received no response back.

I know it cold have something to do with the older actions out there for the Swede, but it seems that the old manual would have the conservative loads and the new one the hotter loads.