Fence building a occasionally flooded timber

[crumrw]

Has anybody built a barb wire fence in an area that occasionally floods?

At my place I have about 2 miles of fence line that is all but non-existent. This is for two reasons. First, it's heavily timbered and when the ground gets wet, trees tend to fall on the fence line. Second in really heavy flood seasons, the water will get 2 to 3 feet high and although the water is not flowing fast, will pile up large quantities of broken limbs and debris against the fence, causing it to push over in places. The fence was probably built in the 50's, so it's virtually useless other than to tell me where to put the new fence. I have heavy clay soil and the grade is nearly perfectly flat. For those who've done this, how would you approach constructing a new fence in this area?

[hog_down]

What county/area of the state are you building the fence? Are you thinking 3 or 5 stays in between t-posts? How many strands of wire were you planning on using?

[crumrw]

Hunt county just northeast of Greenville. Not really sure what would be appropriate as far as how many stays between t-posts, how many t-posts between my line posts, number of h-braces, type of h-braces (metal pipe or wood), do I need perpendicular diagonal braces to resist flood debris, should I concrete the line posts or get extra long posts and use a loader to press them deep in the clay, etc...? These are a few of the questions that I'm unsure about.

Sorry to be long winded. My money and, of course, time are limited like most people ,and I just want to make sure I do this right the first time. Thanks in advance for any advice!

[crumrw]

Also, I don't have cows but my neighbor leases to a cattle rancher and his cows are currently always getting on my property. I was also thinking about dozing a 30ft swath on either side of the fence to reduce tree falls on the fence.

[Kingfisher789]

I'd bulldoze the swath and use high tensile on the fence.

[hunt247]

Also, I don't have cows but my neighbor leases to a cattle rancher and his cows are currently always getting on my property. I was also thinking about dozing a 30ft swath on either side of the fence to reduce tree falls on the fence.

Do this. I would also talk to neighbor about spitting the cost with you.

[BrianL]

I would suggest clearing 100' either side. Metal 2 7/8" post every 5th or 6th post. Maybe a 2 strand hot wire, would work just as well, and much easier to repair.

[crumrw]

I've spoken with the leasee and he said that he'd bulldoze if I put the fence up, which seems fair. Kingfisher, you'd do high tensile over barb wire?

[crumrw]

BrianL, I've thought about the hot wire route. It sure would reduce the fence cost, and would be relatively easy to install and repair...but not sure I could get the rancher to doze a 200' wide swath 2 miles long. Not to mention I have a fairly narrow property and that would take away 200' feet of hunting woods

[JeffK]

doze it out atleast 30' on each side and only leave a tree (elm, pecan or liveoak) every 100 yards or so along the property line to steeple to. Don't leave pin/water oak or post oak, they tend to die when being disturbed around or during a drought. Only use good cedar post and 4 strands of barb wire at most. You may be able to get away with 3 wires depending on how much grass/cows the neighbors has. No t-post, they will just eventually lay over with drift and water pushing on them. You will still need to clean the fence off after floods to keep wood and drift accumulating on it.

[Kingfisher789]

I'd suggest this read for anyone doing fencing. Lots of good info

http://www.cattletoday.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=100515&hilit=Hi+tensile

[texashunter56]

I would ask the neighbor to help doze or hydro axe a 45' to 60' wide new fence row/ROW and cost share an electric fence with one wire at 42" and another at 24" or so.

[crumrw]

doze it out atleast 30' on each side and only leave a tree (elm, pecan or liveoak) every 100 yards or so along the property line to steeple to. Don't leave pin/water oak or post oak, they tend to die when being disturbed around or during a drought. Only use good cedar post and 4 strands of barb wire at most. You may be able to get away with 3 wires depending on how much grass/cows the neighbors has. No t-post, they will just eventually lay over with drift and water pushing on them. You will still need to clean the fence off after floods to keep wood and drift accumulating on it.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking similarly along these lines. My thinking was to buy 30' drill pipe and cut into 10' lengths. Then I'd use the loader on the tractor to push them 5-6 into the ground. Metal pipe h-brace every 600', metal pipe every 20' with one t-post in between each metal pipe line post. Probably would need to do at least 4 strand. Everything else is 5 strand.

[JeffK]

Thanks for the info. I was thinking similarly along these lines. My thinking was to buy 30' drill pipe and cut into 10' lengths. Then I'd use the loader on the tractor to push them 5-6 into the ground. Metal pipe h-brace every 600', metal pipe every 20' with one t-post in between each metal pipe line post. Probably would need to do at least 4 strand. Everything else is 5 strand.

Not sure if you will be able to push the drill pipe in with the loader. Probably won't be straight if you do. They use a hydraulic hammer on skid steers to put them in.

[BrianL]

Thanks for the info. I was thinking similarly along these lines. My thinking was to buy 30' drill pipe and cut into 10' lengths. Then I'd use the loader on the tractor to push them 5-6 into the ground. Metal pipe h-brace every 600', metal pipe every 20' with one t-post in between each metal pipe line post. Probably would need to do at least 4 strand. Everything else is 5 strand.

That is probably overkill on the post. 8' post 3' in the ground should be good. You can get 4 post out of a 32' stick. And yes you can use the FEL, but if you hit a bigger root you will have to pound it thru or move it over.