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Broadhead tuning - at my wit's end!

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    #16
    You are getting contact somewhere. Nothing is going to work as far as tuning until you eliminate the contact. It sounds like the contact is between the U of the rest and the vanes. First thing I would do is adjust the rest drop timing to eliminate the vane contact with the rest.

    Once you've gotten rid of contact issues, you can tune. You won't be able to tune the bow for anything though as long as you've got contact especially when you put a broadhead on. Given that you've moved some stuff, you're going to need to start over on tuning once you eliminate contact issues. The tune you had before probably wasn't good anyway if you had contact, so just start fresh.

    What's happening is that the contact with the rest is sending the arrow flight off course as it tries to leave the bow, and then the broadhead is taking it further down that course. It's magnifying the error from what your field point will show you.

    D

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      #17
      You stated in the opening of the thread that you hadn't paper tuned the bow since changing the rest.

      If any change is made to the rest or the knocking point it's a good idea to shoot some paper.

      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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        #18
        Originally posted by enewman View Post
        Sika I can help. But last time I tried you basically told me to get lost. So I don't mind helping. But pm me if you do
        Oops.

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          #19
          Not rare outta that bow.

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            #20
            Originally posted by dk_ace View Post
            You are getting contact somewhere. Nothing is going to work as far as tuning until you eliminate the contact. It sounds like the contact is between the U of the rest and the vanes. First thing I would do is adjust the rest drop timing to eliminate the vane contact with the rest.

            Once you've gotten rid of contact issues, you can tune. You won't be able to tune the bow for anything though as long as you've got contact especially when you put a broadhead on. Given that you've moved some stuff, you're going to need to start over on tuning once you eliminate contact issues. The tune you had before probably wasn't good anyway if you had contact, so just start fresh.

            What's happening is that the contact with the rest is sending the arrow flight off course as it tries to leave the bow, and then the broadhead is taking it further down that course. It's magnifying the error from what your field point will show you.

            D



            You saved me a heck of a lot of typing. Well said.

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              #21
              Thanks guys. I'll work on the fletching contact problem. I hadn't noticed it until today.

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                #22
                Courtney, if your getting vane contact, you have a rest timing issue. As stated, it needs to be at the loading point during the last inch of full draw. How ever, I have heard of some super speed bows having the same problem with this type of rest (350+ IBO). But don't think at your lbs, and arrow weight, it would be a cause of fletch/launch contact. I shoot about the same arrow weight, length, and spine. But at a higher draw weight(58-63lbs) and draw length (28"). I've owned numerous QADs on different bows also. And had to replace a few due to "inexperienced handlers" trying to force the rest down because they did not know how it works. That bent the rest shaft and altered the spring.

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                  #23
                  Got away from QAD a while back but also switched to VaneTec (they are one of the most consistent weight vane to vane) vanes that are lower profile, but longer (3.25 I think). I also use glue mine with a decent helical.

                  IMO, switch to a hamskea hybrid rest, swap your vanes to a lower profile/longer vane, and add a slight helical (at your poundage I wouldn't add too much).

                  I bet you a started lacy pup that you will shoot darts after that.

                  Some rests will "bounce" up a tad after contacting the shelf. This may be where your contact is. The Hamskea will not if set tight enough.

                  Also, even with low pro vanes, I still shoot cock out instead of down. With arrow flex during the shot, I don't like even risking vane contact with shooting cock vane down.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by oktx View Post
                    Oops.
                    I'm sure she will be just fine without his help.

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                      #25
                      On my hoyts I had to get away from QAD’s. Had several I couldn’t hid rid of fletching contact till I went to a limb driven rest.

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                        #26
                        On the QAD..loosen the draw string on the bow string so it has enough tension to raise the rest on your draw. Meaning don't cock the rest. Let the draw cycle of the bow raise the rest.
                        Shoot the bow. If you still have vane contact shorten the draw string for the rest in 1/4" increment till vane contact is gone.

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                          #27


                          Just to be sure...what am I looking at here...this *is* vane contact, right?


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                            #28
                            Looks like to me.

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                              #29
                              Have you tried turning the co ck vane up? That's how I shoot mine.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by Gerald G View Post
                                Have you tried turning the co ck vane up? That's how I shoot mine.


                                That's normally how I shoot it.


                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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