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Old 04-15-2019, 06:46 AM   #1
Hillbilly Rockstar
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When tuning for broadheads, has anyone had to move your field points TO your broadheads? I always thought you moved your broadheads to your field points. They are touching each other at 20 yards, but when I go to 40, the BH's are hitting to the right. So I move my rest to the left a bit. The BH's essentially stayed in the same location and my FP's moved to the left (away from the BH's). When I move the FP's to the BH's, they get closer, but the BH's start to go high.

The arrows all spin out true with BH's or FP's. BH"s group together and FP's group together. I'm shooting Carbon Express Maxima Red SD's (350). My local bow shop says my cams are timed and shimmed correctly.

Is this a form issue, some sort of axis issue with my rest (QAD HDX) or is there a chance of this being a fletching issue (I just recently started fletching my own arrows, 4 fletch, 90 deg right helical with a bit of an offset on the front)?
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:46 AM   #2
Rat
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I would recommend doing a bareshaft tune first, this will probably tell you more and be faster than broadhead tuning.

However, you are correct in that you move the broadhead to the field point. IOW, if the broadhead hits right of the filed point then you move the rest left in small increments.

I would also use more than one shaft for both field point and broadhead; you may have one that is wonky and it will have you chasing your tail all over the target.

In all likely hood it isn't the fletching configuration or the axis of the sight at 40 yards, but there is a chance.

It could be the fletching if the fletching isn't enough for the broadhead, you need more steerage on the back than the front. A more aggressive helical could help this or a longer/teller fletching may help as well. I'm going to guess and say you have enough fletching for the broadhead, especially using 4 fletch. The big thing with fletching is it could be making contact, even on a drop away, so check for that first.

Do a walk back tune to check the third axis of the sight; here is my tutorial on walk back tuning.
Walk Back tuning

It can definitely be form, only look at good shots.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:53 PM   #3
Planopurist
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Were all your arrows grouping at 40 before putting broadheads on them?


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Old 04-16-2019, 09:50 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillbilly Rockstar View Post
... but when I go to 40, the BH's are hitting to the right. So I move my rest to the left a bit. ...
I just want to correct my previous post, not sure what I was thinking yesterday morning when I posted that, but...

IF broadheads are hitting to the right (a left tear) then you need to move the rest to the right. In your scenario, you need to move the field points to the broadheads. I think this terminology is what got me thrown off yesterday, anyway...

Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat View Post
I just want to correct my previous post, not sure what I was thinking yesterday morning when I posted that, but...

IF broadheads are hitting to the right (a left tear) then you need to move the rest to the right. In your scenario, you need to move the field points to the broadheads. I think this terminology is what got me thrown off yesterday, anyway...

Sorry for the confusion.
I was just fixing to ask you about this.

Iím with you on the bareshaft test.
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enewman View Post
I was just fixing to ask you about this.

Iím with you on the bareshaft test.
Yea, well you know...
Sometimes my brain doesn't translate very well. I have to think about tuning from the strings (power stroke) standpoint, I can't use association like some can.

So, "chasing the broadhead with the field point" doesn't make any sense to me and I get it wrong. It happens more than I am willing to admit...
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:53 PM   #7
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According to most. I’m wrong all the time. Haha
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Old 04-18-2019, 06:55 AM   #8
Hillbilly Rockstar
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Hey thanks Rat. I'm going to tinker more with it this weekend. On my bareshafts...am I wanting the bareshafts to hit in the same spot as the fletched, or at the same angle as the fletched?
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Old 04-18-2019, 07:48 AM   #9
cbd10pt
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Have you walk back tuned
Do this with your broadheads and don't worry about where your field points hit.
Shut your broadheads through paper for your vertical rest adjustment
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Old 04-18-2019, 08:22 AM   #10
Rat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillbilly Rockstar View Post
Hey thanks Rat. I'm going to tinker more with it this weekend. On my bareshafts...am I wanting the bareshafts to hit in the same spot as the fletched, or at the same angle as the fletched?
Both, as you correct the angle, both horizontal and vertical, they will naturally come together.

If they don't, which is possible, we start looking for a form problem. The most common in this instance will be grip and draw. A draw length that is too long will produce erratic arrow flight (for most people) and a bad grip will do the same.

Grip is important, make sure you are using only the thumb pad, slight rotation (angle of knuckles) can help or hurt. Also, if in doubt, more pressure on the heel of the hand (it's a good rule anyway).

Watch this video:
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:09 AM   #11
Hillbilly Rockstar
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Roger that. I watch a lot of Shane's videos. He is a pretty solid dude.
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Old Yesterday, 06:33 PM   #12
JB_Archery
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Is your bow in spec on manufacturers center shot (distance from riser to the middle of the arrow shaft)? I always Chase the field point so in your case you would move the rest left in very small increments. How far apart is the group at 40? What set-up are you shooting (Bow, DL & DW)?
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