Distance error or “shooter” error

[QACZ71]

Are you centering the scope or the pin in the peep when you shoot?
If centering the scope there is no need to adjust the anchor, it should be the same at all distance.
If centering the pin, then go back to centering the scope, that is why the bottom pin is movable and not the whole scope.

Left and right could be a rest adjustment (bareshaft or walk-back tune) or it could be 3rd axis adjustment.

Maybe we should do some bareshaft tuning before we get too far down the road on the sight. The reason I say that is, if the error is due to poor arrow flight, contact or something like that, the sight tape will give you a wrong answer.

Scope is centered every shot.
It’s French tuned, does bareshaft further the tune? I need to refletch a few arrows so it would not be that much of a chore to do.

If form is close to perfect then these are the factors that could cause that:

—Fletching contact can become more noticeable the further you go out
—Cams could be out of tune
—on your tape if you sight in at 20 then get it dead on at 60-70 yards then mark both that distance between 20 & 60 should get you the right tape
—form wise are you pulling through your shot?
—is the shot surprising you when it goes off?
—are you floating the pin or are you trying to hold it dead on?

Form is probably nowhere near perfect lol
-A four fletched 400 shoots roughly the same as my 3 fletch 340/400’s
-Cam sync was verified recently after a break in period
-It’s a three pin bottom is the slider so can only go down to about 35 before I contact a stationary pin. Should probably open up my zeroing range for a better curve. I’m using Rcherz.com for tapes which are nice but more geared towards target sights than moveable hunting sights.
-90% are good pull through shots. When I concentrate on form and let the pin hang out my groups tighten up but don’t move on the target.

Thank you all for the help leaving work finally going to go home and experiment a little

[JB_Archery]

Scope is centered every shot.
It’s French tuned, does bareshaft further the tune? I need to refletch a few arrows so it would not be that much of a chore to do.



Form is probably nowhere near perfect lol
-A four fletched 400 shoots roughly the same as my 3 fletch 340/400’s
-Cam sync was verified recently after a break in period
-It’s a three pin bottom is the slider so can only go down to about 35 before I contact a stationary pin. Should probably open up my zeroing range for a better curve. I’m using Rcherz.com for tapes which are nice but more geared towards target sights than moveable hunting sights.
-90% are good pull through shots. When I concentrate on form and let the pin hang out my groups tighten up but don’t move on the target.

Thank you all for the help leaving work finally going to go home and experiment a little

Sounds like you have some good focus on figuring things out... the best of luck to you!

[Rat]

Scope is centered every shot.
It’s French tuned, does bareshaft further the tune? I need to refletch a few arrows so it would not be that much of a chore to do.

Since I've started using bareshaft tuning I believe it is superior for tuning the system as a whole.

For example, French Tuning will correct for an arrow that is not flying correctly.
Bareshaft tuning will get the arrow flying correctly.

If you were only going to shoot 20 yards maybe French Tuning would be fine, but not at 70 yards.

I prefer bareshaft tuning. It's worth a shot anyway, 3 arrows will tell you if it needs further tuning.

We still need to get he group moved up at the POI, just do that by moving the pin, should be easy enough.

The right drift could be caused by poor arrow flight (check using a bareshaft), or 3rd axis adjustment. A 2" vertical and 5" horizontal group is pretty dang good at 70 yards.

IF the arrow is flying well and 3rd axis is where it needs to be, then an elongated, or football shaped, group is most commonly caused by uneven face pressure/contact on the string.

[QACZ71]

Since I've started using bareshaft tuning I believe it is superior for tuning the system as a whole.

For example, French Tuning will correct for an arrow that is not flying correctly.
Bareshaft tuning will get the arrow flying correctly.

If you were only going to shoot 20 yards maybe French Tuning would be fine, but not at 70 yards.

I prefer bareshaft tuning. It's worth a shot anyway, 3 arrows will tell you if it needs further tuning.

We still need to get he group moved up at the POI, just do that by moving the pin, should be easy enough.

The right drift could be caused by poor arrow flight (check using a bareshaft), or 3rd axis adjustment. A 2" vertical and 5" horizontal group is pretty dang good at 70 yards.

IF the arrow is flying well and 3rd axis is where it needs to be, then an elongated, or football shaped, group is most commonly caused by uneven face pressure/contact on the string.

I will break down some arrows for a bare shaft tune. Watched the Ranch Fairy version yesterday for research lol

I'm fighting facial pressure right now, but hard when I'm trying to make the arrow stick where I want it.

Appreciate it all the help!

[QACZ71]

So I believe some of my issue was form, and some of it the yardage tape and the rest I can only describe it like parallax. At that distance and back through the magic of Lasik my left eye is better and starts to take over.

Form wise I was shooting my “long” distance shots last so bow shoulder was spent started to creep. Finally played with the program long enough and got a tape that’s on to 70. Need to get it out in the back yard to see how far I can go before it bottoms out on the housing.

Probably going to give a single pin a shot and see if it is any better for me at extended distances. Still need to bare shaft tune between work and kids does t leave mug time for testing.