Adding point weight for tuning

[txfireguy2003]

Is there a weigt ring that can be added to an arrow after the inserts are installed? Like something that would go between the insert and the field point/broadhead, like a heavy washer?

I've already ordered 125 grain points and broadheads, but just curious if there's an add on system to get the perfect weight up front if the 125's don't do it.

I'm running a Bowtech Carbon Icon at 70lbs on ther comfort setting with 27" Easton Axis 340 spine shafts, with 100gr field points and Slick Tricks. I've been fighting the tuning since I got it. Broadheads will not hit with field points, they are always left, and I've adjusted the rest as much as I can without hitting the riser. Bare shaft tuning, the bare shaft hits to the left of the field points, with the nock end to the right. All these things tell me I'm overspined. I don't want to buy new shafts so I'm going to try adding weight to the front end and see if that will help. I'll probably have to tear everything down and start fresh on center shot and what not. I did notice that the timing was slightly off, brace height was about 1/4" less than spec and axle to axle was a bit long, so I added a twist to the downward moving cable to advance the correct cam for timing. That got the brace height and a to a closer, but still not right. I'm considering adding a half twist to both cables to see where that puts me, but the adjustment I made so far had made zero difference in the tune on target...... feels like I'm chasing my tail. I plan to put new string and cables on it after this season, but it's too late for that right now, so I'm trying to get it shooting acceptably to hunt with.

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[enewman]

Ok. First your not over spined. Side tears with a compound bow with a release is power stroke alignment and or grip issue.

You need to tune. Binary cams you fix with shims. But only if bow has shims. But if you have a right nock. You need to move cam to the right. Meaning more shims on the left and less on the right. This will require a press. ( best way). Now you can move rest. Now if bareshaft is to the left it will mean nock right so to fix this withnrest move rest out. Not in. If you move more then 1/16 and your seeing no change then it’s you. You will need to work on grip. Your torqueing the bow.

[enewman]

Also you need to fix your bow first. Reset center shot at 13/16. Then look at timing marks at rest make sure close. Then make sure cams are stopping at same point at full draw. This is important for your cams. Cams must be in sync.

[rocky]

I typically crunch the bow shorter than spec, because strings never shrink. Usually at least 1/8” short , while keeping cams in time and in proper rotation by referencing the alignment dots. This will up poundage a couple pounds. Like enewman said, stiff is rarely an issue with a dual cam system. Torque was my first thought also, but realign CS, and start over. Not unheard of some cam lean with that bow, which is seldom an issue, but could be. I’ve also seen that riser warp, mostly on the Carbon Overdrive, but have seen one warp on a Carbon Knight. Check that the string runs inline with the center of grip, and not to the inside edge. If you truly believe your arrows are too stiff, you could also flip to the performance side

[rocky]

Put about 3 twists per cable, and 3-4 twists in string and check alignment dots and a2a. I typically run my personal bows 1/4 -3/8” short a2a, and 4-5 pounds hot.

[critter69]

One of the advantages of gold tips, you can add fact weights to the back of the insert very easy, and remove if you want. Helps with tunning also. And not have to mess with glue cutting or anything.

[txfireguy2003]

Ok. First your not over spined. Side tears with a compound bow with a release is power stroke alignment and or grip issue.

You need to tune. Binary cams you fix with shims. But only if bow has shims. But if you have a right nock. You need to move cam to the right. Meaning more shims on the left and less on the right. This will require a press. ( best way). Now you can move rest. Now if bareshaft is to the left it will mean nock right so to fix this withnrest move rest out. Not in. If you move more then 1/16 and your seeing no change then it’s you. You will need to work on grip. Your torqueing the bow.

Okay, I made the suggested changes, moved twisted cables and string until it's timed right, and ata is right. Reset center shot to 13/16 from the riser. I also reset it to square with the string as close as I could..... had to raise the nocking point a bit to get it right (then moved it back down just a hair while shooting). Now, my bare shaft is STILL hitting left, and I've adjusted the rest as far out as I can, it mechanically cannot go out any more. Below is the best I was able to achieve.

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[txfireguy2003]

This is what my broadheads have been doing since I've owned the bow (bought new, about 3 years ago). The one with clear nock has a slick trick on it.

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[txfireguy2003]

Well, I figured out problem number one. The Ultra Rest HDX needs a spacer between the mounting arm and ther elevation adjustment slide. This pushes the rest further left (away from the riser) and allows you to set center shot correctly on the carbon riser bowtech bows. The problem is ther carbon riser blows have thicker risers, so the rest doesn't have enough adjustment without the spacer. I thought I had kept the box from the rest, but I can't find it, so now I'm waiting for QAD to return my email, hopefully tomorrow.

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[rocky]

Well, I figured out problem number one. The Ultra Rest HDX needs a spacer between the mounting arm and ther elevation adjustment slide. This pushes the rest further left (away from the riser) and allows you to set center shot correctly on the carbon riser bowtech bows. The problem is ther carbon riser blows have thicker risers, so the rest doesn't have enough adjustment without the spacer. I thought I had kept the box from the rest, but I can't find it, so now I'm waiting for QAD to return my email, hopefully tomorrow.

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Surely you have a QAD dealer in the vicinity. Get a spacer and the longer bolt from them. Set CS visually straight out in center of limb bolts. No need to measure. Set nock point level. Broadhead tune. Screw the bare shaft and walk-back tune. You do not have a spine issue. Did you check for cam lean and possibly riser warp? Probably not the deal, but I have seen it.

[txfireguy2003]

Surely you have a QAD dealer in the vicinity. Get a spacer and the longer bolt from them. Set CS visually straight out in center of limb bolts. No need to measure. Set nock point level. Broadhead tune. Screw the bare shaft and walk-back tune. You do not have a spine issue. Did you check for cam lean and possibly riser warp? Probably not the deal, but I have seen it.

If there's any cam lean, it's so small I can't see it. Riser seems straight. I'm betting it'll all work out fine once I get the center shot right with the spacer. What throws me off is that broadheads hitting left makes me think i need to move the rest right, but apparently, that's not the case.

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[rocky]

If there's any cam lean, it's so small I can't see it. Riser seems straight. I'm betting it'll all work out fine once I get the center shot right with the spacer. What throws me off is that broadheads hitting left makes me think i need to move the rest right, but apparently, that's not the case.
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There’s a point of no return. When you go too far right, you get a false read. Keep in mind, you have 2 sets of holes in the launcher. bar. I do so many Bowtech bows that I can’t remember what set of holes the Icon requires, even with the spacer. When CS is set properly, you should have 1/8 or less vane clearance with cables.

[txfireguy2003]

There’s a point of no return. When you go too far right, you get a false read. Keep in mind, you have 2 sets of holes in the launcher. bar. I do so many Bowtech bows that I can’t remember what set of holes the Icon requires, even with the spacer. When CS is set properly, you should have 1/8 or less vane clearance with cables.

Thanks, I think I'm real close at this point, just need another 16th or less and the rest won't do it. A buddy has the spacer, just need to meet up with him to get it, or I'll have my wife stop by the bow shop on get easy home from work (closest one is 35 minute drive, but she works just around the corner.)

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[Reaper87]

I’m betting you will still have to yoke tune it to get the cam lean set correctly. The binary cams really react to yoke tuning. I’ve had to yoke tune everyone of mine to get broadheads and bare shafts to fly correctly. You can move the rest but the broadheads and field points will just walk together the same distance apart. Rocky can explain it better than me.

[Low Fence]

I’m betting you will still have to yoke tune it to get the cam lean set correctly. The binary cams really react to yoke tuning. I’ve had to yoke tune everyone of mine to get broadheads and bare shafts to fly correctly. You can move the rest but the broadheads and field points will just walk together the same distance apart. Rocky can explain it better than me.

I could be wrong but the carbon icon is 2 track bianary can not overdrive, so there is no yoke to tune.

I could be wrong