Let's Talk ILF

[RickBarbee]

Todd (huntingpool) are you out there?

I have a Martin Lynx riser. It is the new style that has the limb pockets instead of just the flat limb pad. I also have a set of ILF adapter plates for it.

I was going to do this with a Martin Firecat riser, but opted for the Lynx, because it is shorter, and is deflex instead of reflex.

Need all the help I can get, but wanted this to be an open topic for all who are interested in ILF, have input to help folks along, or are just curious about it.

Todd - I'm shooting for something in the 60# @ 28", and as close as I can get to a 64" overall length. The riser measures just a tad over 22" end to end.

Let's see where this goes.

Rick

[Lewis Vaden]

Rick, you can find all you want to know & more about ILF on Tradtalk.com

[ferguson620]

Should I go ILF

Hi Rick,

Not sure this is where you want to go with your thread, but I have a question about ILF.

I shoot barebow and in my age group 70 meters. I am using a 35# Quinn TQ Comet traditional takedown. It is a great bow for the price ($160 new).

But, for some reason I can no longer shoot one finger over, I keep lifting the arrow off the rest. Three under will not give me the height at that distance. I am a spot shooter so my spot is in the sky.

Would going to an ILF (Olympic Recurve) bow give me enough speed to lower my spot enough to be on target? I would buy one just to try except we are talking a difference between $160 and $1,600. Also, I need to drop down to a 30# bow.

Thanks, Don

[huntinpool]

Rick , measure center of bolt to center of bolt. Then subtract 5 " and that will be your riser length. ILF limb poundage is based on 25" riser. You add 1# for every inch that you go under 25".

So if you have a 17" riser it will be a plus 8# riser. This will vary slightly based on limb pad angle. To get #60 you will need to look for limbs rated around 51-54#.

Like Lewis said, Tradtalk has a page just for "WARFIN" risers and lots of info there. It is in the "Bow Projects" section.
You may be limited on limb choice at that weight with big factory limbs but makers like Dryad ( they rate limbs on a 19" riser) , Morrison as well as makers like TradTech and 3rivers offer hunting weight bows.

Sam Dunham on TradTalk is converting risers to the DAS connection. It uses ILF limbs with a slightly quieter connection as well. He does really good work if you want to go that route. If you do the conversion yourself you'll want to make sure the limb bolt is centered in the slot and is completely clear of limb. Your ILF fitting should bottom out before limb reaches the bolt.

Hope this help get you started. Just holler if got more ??

[huntinpool]

Hi Rick,

Not sure this is where you want to go with your thread, but I have a question about ILF.

I shoot barebow and in my age group 70 meters. I am using a 35# Quinn TQ Comet traditional takedown. It is a great bow for the price ($160 new).

But, for some reason I can no longer shoot one finger over, I keep lifting the arrow off the rest. Three under will not give me the height at that distance. I am a spot shooter so my spot is in the sky.

Would going to an ILF (Olympic Recurve) bow give me enough speed to lower my spot enough to be on target? I would buy one just to try except we are talking a difference between $160 and $1,600. Also, I need to drop down to a 30# bow.

Thanks, Don

You can get a decent riser and limbs for under $200. Limbs range from $60 to $1000 and risers are the same. You can get quality used risers and limbs for real good deals as well in classifieds on some of the trad sites

[shortstroke 91]

If you go with Tradtech, call them first. I know they used to measure poundage on some limbs at 17" others at 19" and then the old standard 25" risers.

[RickBarbee]

Thanks Todd.

shortstroke91, I have talked to Rob at LAS before, and will probably talk to him again before I try to order any limbs.

I'll probably borrow some limbs from someone just to get the fit & finish to the riser, and then order what limbs I want.

Rick

[huntinpool]

Samick makes limbs for TradTech. Sky is now making limbs for 3 rivers.

[huntinpool]

Rick, limb bolt to bolt PLUS 5" is riser length. I was using Azle math before. Bolt to bolt PLUS 5".

[RickBarbee]

Hey Todd.

Center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole on this riser is 17.75"
Plus 5" makes it - 22.75". I'll call it 23"

If I'm understanding this correctly, I add 1# for every inch under 25",
so if I want the bow to be 60#, I will need limbs that would be 58# on a 25" riser ?

What length limbs will I need to get a 64" OAL bow?

Rick

Looks like short limbs on a 19" riser makes a 60" bow, so the short limbs on a 23" riser should make a 64" bow. That sound right ?

Rick

[huntinpool]

Rick, shorts will give you 64". 23" riser with shorts will give you a pretty forgiving bow for sure. You will also be getting the max out of limb at your draw length. You may have to back the bolts out a turn or two to adjust the stack beyond your draw. You are going to be surprised at the performance of the upper end limbs compared to the STANDARD trad bow. You can can back the bolt out about 4 four turns before it starts putting stress on the ILF fitting. You never want to shoot it tightened all the way down either. At least a half turn up, will give you max preload. I always try to adjust it where it is smooth to anchor. If you have a draw board you can see where stack starts adjust the bolts out till its just beyond your draw length.

[RickBarbee]

Thanks Todd.

I've always used "stack" as a draw check, and with it being adjustable to where it happens where you want it, that could turn out to be a real good benefit for me.

Rick

I'm drooling over some of these limb selections LOL.
It'll be a while before I can afford any of the upper end ones.

Rick

[huntinpool]

Keep an eye on TT , lots of good stuff comes across the Classifieds there. Border, Dryad, W&W are always showing up here and there. Lots of good limbs that don't break the bank too. PSE, Flutes , Samick are good limbs.

[r2h]

Rick, you need to check the riser limb pad angle to see if it is a good candidate for ILF. This will also determine the amount of weight change you will get from your limbs, not always a 1# rule. Your riser at 23" is kind of long for a hunting bow, or I should say for a 64" bow. It would require you to use "shorts" and could limit your draw length, again depending on the limb pad angle. Not familiar with the Martin Lynx riser and don't know if it will be a beauty or a beast.

[RickBarbee]

Rick, you need to check the riser limb pad angle to see if it is a good candidate for ILF. This will also determine the amount of weight change you will get from your limbs, not always a 1# rule. Your riser at 23" is kind of long for a hunting bow, or I should say for a 64" bow. It would require you to use "shorts" and could limit your draw length, again depending on the limb pad angle. Not familiar with the Martin Lynx riser and don't know if it will be a beauty or a beast.

I'll take a picture of it, and post it for inspection. I need all the help I can get. 8^)

Rick