Shooting more than 1 bow

[Destry]

I have a 61lb Bob Lee and a 46lb toelke whip, I bought the whip thinking it would be good to work on form, and I do love the bow I'm curious as to why I shoot the heavier bow so much better. Better groups and I'm more accurate with it, but I kinda figured it would be opposite. Anybody else or is it just me

[SwampRabbit]

I think it can be one of two things (probably more... but...)

1) The heavier bow in general is tuned better for the arrows (or vice versa) or its more comfortable for your grip, etc, etc. Basically, if you had that same bow in a lighter weight, you might still shoot it better just because of the design. or

2) You have a release/form issue and heavier bows tend to mask some of those. I'm talking like plucking, etc because it is harder to pluck with a heavier draw. This is why lightweight bows are good for form... not just because you can practice more, but because they are more finicky when it comes to form discrepencies. Shoot a 15lb bow and you'll see your pluck, hand torque, bow arm drop, etc really quick.

[Destry]

Swamp rabbit- I think you answered my ? I feel like I get a near perfect release with the heavier bow than the lighter which does make sense. I do a lot of blind bale shooting and I believe I have pretty descent form so it could just be my release on the lighter bow. Another thing is the whip is shorter than my Bob Lee which I don't know if that makes any difference on accuracy or shoot ability

[Dry Bones]

Most of my bows are within a few pounds of each other, but none of them have the same grip/riser. I bought them that way on purpose. From a high wrist really horizontal to a almost complete vertical. The more I change between them the better I shoot. Though that may all be a mental, fact it still works. As for your ? I totally agree with Swamp Rabbit about the form and lighter draw weight bows. Want to humble yourself, grab a youth bow...
If you alternate shooting a few arrows through each of the bows at the same shooting session do both of your groups improve? I tend to, but I think that is because as I change grip styles I have to concentrate harder on form and less on the draw cycle itself.

[Destry]

I'll give it a go, I'll start shooting both of them together and see if that helps

[jerp]

My recurve is 55# and my longbow is 50#. When I am dialed-in with my recurve then pick up my longbow, my arrows hit 6-8" high at 20 yards. It takes a couple dozen arrows to reprogram my brain. I'm sure it mostly has to do with the difference in grips - I shoot the longbow with a straight wrist.

[RoyseCity]

I'm impressed, but also amazed, that constant change makes anyone shoot better.

Not doubting it, but it is contrary to my experience with everything, not just bows.

More experience with a tool generally improves my proficiency with that tool.

As to weight, I like Bisch's idea:

He recently wrote that he believes one should shoot all the weight he can handle for hunting, but his version of "handle" is shooting it all day everyday, whether 200 arrows in a day in a shoot, or at a trophy kudu in Africa.

He shoots the same bow for everything.

Learning to shoot? Heck yeah. Shoot a light bow. After that, I'm inclined to just find a bow you like and can handle and shoot it. And shoot it.

I just changed bows, but after two years with the same one. Ain't fickle.

For me, what I can handle now, by Bisch's standard, is mid-50s. Prolly downhill from here (I'm 64). I can still shoot 65, but I'm wore out after 10 arrows.

Joe

[SwampRabbit]

Constant change? Check out the major 3D shoot results and notice the guys/gals who place in the top 5 of more than just one or 2 categories and note their scores.

Depth and Breadth. While some of the best guys I know favor a bow... they'll easily outshoot me with my own bow. I figure that is because they have shot so many different bows and have been shooting long enough that they just know how to adapt quickly.

[RoyseCity]

You missed my point. Or maybe I wasn't clear.

My point related to whether shooting multiple bows improves one's shooting overall, as was claimed by another.

I specifically said I didn't doubt that it could be so.

It does not, for me, and again, I believe for most, including those you mention.

I never said one could not shoot multiple bows well.

Joe

[RoyseCity]

I replied before your edit. It changes what you said, but I'm done.

Cheers!

Joe

[Dry Bones]

Gentlemen, I did not mean to make a controversial comment, just what has seemed to work for me. As I change my grip I have to focus more on form. I tend to get sloppy if I shoot the same bow all the time. I know that really does not make sense and I will completely agree with Royse City, The more time one spends with any one tool the better they tend to use it or become more efficient with.
Not sure if it is just the way I shoot or ?? But my bows seem to shoot close enough together that I do not have a big difference in elevation of arrows. (This may also be because I spend a lot of time on arrow choice and flight). Or maybe that I do not sight down or use any gap as a lot of good archers I have read about.
Whatever the situation, Shoot the bow/bows that are comfortable, have fun, and shoot as accurate as possible.

[trad"Doc"53]

I finally fixed the 2 bow dilemma by getting a Ridgecatt bow from Bob Sarrells and had him make me a set of longbow limbs for it. Now I have the same riser/grip for either set. Helps to keep the grip and feel the same and more consistent.

[Destry]

I shot both bows this afternoon and I found that I get a better release with the lighter bow if I grip the string between my tips and the first joint. And I can shoot the heavier bow the same way just fine.

[Destry]

I only shot close range for 10-15 minutes and noticed when gripping the string this way was that my hand and forearm were tense instead of being relaxed which I think may show up at longer distances

[SwampRabbit]

I only shot close range for 10-15 minutes and noticed when gripping the string this way was that my hand and forearm were tense instead of being relaxed which I think may show up at longer distances

My advice is to hook the string in the first joint. When you do the tips/pad, while you can finesse it, you will be tense like you said.

When you hook with a lighter bow, you may see funny flight, but my experience is that is mainly from plucking, or dead release, rather than relaxing and letting the string slip through.

Everytime I pick up a youth bow, I can tell how bad I have been plucking recently right off the bat, and I have to focus on making a good release.

On a high poundage bow, the effect can be similar to bow arm movement, so I have to pay attention to where my hand ends up at the end of the shot to help diagnose if it is release or follow through or bad aim.

Edit: By the way, that really isn't "my" advice, it is advice I've picked up from others that I have incorporated and passed on.

I shot both bows this afternoon and I found that I get a better release with the lighter bow if I grip the string between my tips and the first joint. And I can shoot the heavier bow the same way just fine.