Your shot process

[Aggiehunter08]

Draw

Aim

Squeeeeeze

Bingo. No need to make it difficult.

[Low Fence]

Bingo. No need to make it difficult.

Lol. The degree I had target panic I couldn’t get within 2’ of dot without shooting. Couldn’t aim and let down, I would shoot! Verbally saying “don’t shoot”. Now I don’t shoot even field points at same dot inside 40 ( not saying that being boastful) aj made THAT much difference

Target panic is horrible!

[Antlers86]

Pick the spot you want your arrow to hit before you draw.

Draw back keeping your eye on the spot.

Focus pin and release.

I look at it no different than golf. Keep your eye on the ball even while you are swinging.

[sambo73]

thx guys

[rdstrong3]

First, it is not about a specific amount of time

Draw, settle and loose. Is the basic process. You will obviously notice that you cannot get rid of all the wobble, so you have to learn what is an acceptable amount of wobble and what is too much. If you try to hold on target for more than a few seconds then the wobble will get worse, not better. You will need to let down and start over. I know this is not always doable in a stand, so while keeping your bow at full draw you can raise your head and resettle a bit. Not as good as redrawing, but better than trying to power through the shakes.

Also work on follow through and not collapsing at the shot. That will generally go a long way. Punching the trigger is not as big a deal as people think, but not following through when you punch the trigger is huge.

Very well said. I agree.


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[Traildust]

Start at ground level, go straight up front leg, find your spot and squeeze...just that fast.

[Radar]

Both eyes open, I had to learn this. Helped me a lot, seems to settle me down some.

[Patton]

I realized I had target panic in the off-season and corrected it by finally understanding what it means to punch the trigger vs using back tension, and also accepted that I don’t hold the pin 100% still (and that that is okay). I also realized that when at full draw, I was still pulling back way harder than I needed to which caused me to move more. I shortened my Scott Little Goose and now wrap my index finger around the trigger, and relax all other fingers. I imagine a bullseye on target directly behind me that I pull the tip of my elbow towards. Now moving my index finger doesn’t fire the bow but rather pulling my entire arm back. When I go through my entire shot process, my groups are great. I think it was a NockOn YouTube video I watched that really helped. I also think practicing at longer ranges (40-85 yards for me) really helps with the closer shots.

So my sequence would be to draw and find my anchors and settle on the target. Check my bubble. Then wrap my finger around the trigger and start to settle the pin where I want to hit on target- it more floats very closely around/through it. Then begin pulling my elbow towards the imaginary target behind me and just barely pushing my left arm forward. The bow will fire. Then follow through with the motions you were pulling and pushing, don’t immediately drop your bow to see where you hit. I can feel when I slap the trigger now or skip an important step and my shot it usually affected accordingly. I also don’t have a set amount of time I need to do each step, sometimes it’s rather quick and other times I’m at draw for 15 seconds.

[whakm]

Lots of good advice and I can tell you that there is no one fix to the issue. Be willing to give 'em a try. For me it helps a lot to visualize where I want the pin on the target, or animal, before I shoot. Then draw, go up the leg ( or where ever depending on the angle) then let the pin settle on your "visualized" pin, breath, relax and GENTLY trigger the release. Also, follow thru. Don't move your bow arm until the arrow hits the target.

[Brack]

I had similar issues. I use Scott releases, and one that I had allowed me to replace the trigger with a spring. When you punch on it, it becomes obvious. It forced me concentrate on squeezing and after a few days of shooting like this, I was able to create some muscle memory with a better release habit. best of luck to you.

[wdtorque]

Lots of good input here. I had trouble when I was trying to hit the X, told myself "8 ring" is ok, I'm a hunter not a competitor, been doing much better now. I can't do perfect, but I can do dang good. :-)

[kd350]

Aj’s cd and a hinge release will help you. I shoot animals a whole lot better with a hinge. Also just staring at the spot and let the pin float helps too

[fullsizeaggie]

As read somewhere on here. Focus on one part of the process. Mine is knuckle behind the ear. I take a deep breath as I draw, come to anchor point - ear/knuckle, align pins with target, check bubble level, as I breathe - sight moves up and down (manage the wiggle), last breathe out, come down to where I want to hit and gone, then hold follow through. Back when I shot rifles competitively, I let my breathing raise the sight up and down once I was on target. I will breathe 2-3 breaths or longer and I am drawn to simulate waiting on them to move etc.

[Tom]

my process is simple and I focus in this order. Know where I am going to shoot them happens during these steps

as I draw my bow back....

grip
anchor
level
pin
shoot

[sambo73]

lots of good info. my release has a lot of travel before it fires. its a trufire where the trigger opens and closes the jaws of release. really want to get me a thumb release or hook style release where I can adjust my trigger. just haven't been able to.