New hunter in the camp, ha coming soon anyhow...

[TexasWicked1]

It's great to get them started. My 2 year old loves to come shoot with me. If that bow will shorten the draw length by 2 inches do it (if you can only get one then do that). It will feel lighter poundage to him and you will be able to raise the poundage easier for him. Look at his release hand. His elbow is actually below his shoulder. Also something that will help get a release that has a strap instead of a bar and shorten it all the way down so that he wraps hid finger around the trigger (it will also artificially shorten his draw length by making his release arm stop sooner.

Thank you, I appreciate your input.

[popup_menace]

Here's my line of thinking and if I'm wrong, please correct me, because I may have some bad habits as well and really want him to have the right information the first time.

When I purchased the bow, I went in with his measurements. I explained to him, I needed him to stretch his arms out like an eagle and open palms facing forward. I knew I would be close. Then after setting it up and working with him on his form, I'm seeing it is a little long, as noted from the videos above.

Now when I draw his bow back, I noticed the back wall wasn't solid. So I'm thinking or working on thinking of a way to help make it solid. So there is no leeway or bouncing give there. Then showing him that he needs to consistently draw and release from the same exact place. This way we can fine tune his zero. Because he's hitting the target, but training him to focus on a particular part of the target and putting every arrow in the same place is where my displacement is at the moment.

I know that it will all come together as he become more accustom to shooting, but for me form is everything, I do everything the same, from draw and even how I wiggle my nose before I shoot and that shows consistent on the target. Although again, I do not want him to adopt my bad habits if I can prevent it, because ultimately I want him to be better than I am.

Let me preface this by saying I am NOT an expert. My experience comes from teaching myself, my wife, and my little brother.


The back wall being spongy to him is a product of the DL being too long. He is having to try and settle himself when there is probably .25" left before the actual back wall can be hit whatsoever. This is contributing to the spongy feel. My wife shoots a bow with a very spongy type back wall, but she is rock solid at full draw because it is set to the correct length and she is at the actual back of it when drawn. The same goes for my little brother. His old Parker doesn't have much of a back wall, but he is solid because he knows his form and it is short enough to keep him from "reaching".

On to what Dustoffer said about the peep alignment. He is probably right, as there is a bit of a "searching" look to his form. (I coined these terms ) he is having to find his peep, which is causing the rest of his body to shift, thus changing his overall anchor. If you set the DL to the correct length, get him to draw with his eyes closed, and then open at full draw after anchoring, you will see just how low/high his peep actually is. Setting the peep correctly will actually help with the spongy back wall, as he will find his arm's optimally comfortable/strong/steady position and have his head/eye just fall into place. This will solidify his form and also create more consistent releases.

[TexasWicked1]

Let me preface this by saying I am NOT an expert. My experience comes from teaching myself, my wife, and my little brother.


The back wall being spongy to him is a product of the DL being too long. He is having to try and settle himself when there is probably .25" left before the actual back wall can be hit whatsoever. This is contributing to the spongy feel. My wife shoots a bow with a very spongy type back wall, but she is rock solid at full draw because it is set to the correct length and she is at the actual back of it when drawn. The same goes for my little brother. His old Parker doesn't have much of a back wall, but he is solid because he knows his form and it is short enough to keep him from "reaching".

On to what Dustoffer said about the peep alignment. He is probably right, as there is a bit of a "searching" look to his form. (I coined these terms ) he is having to find his peep, which is causing the rest of his body to shift, thus changing his overall anchor. If you set the DL to the correct length, get him to draw with his eyes closed, and then open at full draw after anchoring, you will see just how low/high his peep actually is. Setting the peep correctly will actually help with the spongy back wall, as he will find his arm's optimally comfortable/strong/steady position and have his head/eye just fall into place. This will solidify his form and also create more consistent releases.

Mechanically speaking that makes a lot of sense actually.

I'm thinking by pushing his chest out and, shortening the DL and helping him find that consistent area to anchor, will greatly help him.

Thanks guys. I greatly appreciate all of your input.

[dustoffer]

I think you misunderstood my question about wrist strap---I wasn't referring to his release hand, but to his left hand holding the bow--

And, with the spongy back wall--correct shorter DL will fix that and you will see lots of improvement over time with development of muscle memory and increased strength. One last thought--be sure when he is at the back wall on draw, that he doesn't let that bow arm collapse, but pushes the bow forward as he settles into his final position prior to his shot. I had a heck of a time with my pin floating all over the place until I read on the "other" forum about pushing with my bow arm. Cut down my pin float by 50% and thus helped my grouping considerably. Oops--one more thing to add to the list of "watch for this" items---get about 15' away from him, on his right side, have him come to full draw and anchor with the arrow perfectly level and make sure his stance is OK--not leaning back. OK--I'm done.

Get out there and shoot with him, keep encouraging him, and try and work on only one thing at a time so he doesn't get discouraged. Think what it would be like if each of us raised one new bowhunter/archery enthusiast!!!

[cmh2007]

Mechanically speaking that makes a lot of sense actually.

I'm thinking by pushing his chest out and, shortening the DL and helping him find that consistent area to anchor, will greatly help him.

Thanks guys. I greatly appreciate all of your input.

Gave him stand up perfectly straight. Don't have him lean, it will affect DL, normally on the long side.

[TexasWicked1]

I think you misunderstood my question about wrist strap---I wasn't referring to his release hand, but to his left hand holding the bow--

And, with the spongy back wall--correct shorter DL will fix that and you will see lots of improvement over time with development of muscle memory and increased strength. One last thought--be sure when he is at the back wall on draw, that he doesn't let that bow arm collapse, but pushes the bow forward as he settles into his final position prior to his shot. I had a heck of a time with my pin floating all over the place until I read on the "other" forum about pushing with my bow arm. Cut down my pin float by 50% and thus helped my grouping considerably. Oops--one more thing to add to the list of "watch for this" items---get about 15' away from him, on his right side, have him come to full draw and anchor with the arrow perfectly level and make sure his stance is OK--not leaning back. OK--I'm done.

Get out there and shoot with him, keep encouraging him, and try and work on only one thing at a time so he doesn't get discouraged. Think what it would be like if each of us raised one new bowhunter/archery enthusiast!!!

I did misunderstand. I have not put one on his Bow yet.

[one66stang]

I think
With that bow the back wall being spongy is because its a cable draw stop and very light poundage. My son shot a Craze for several years and as he grew and the poundage was increased the wall firmed up.

The draw length does look to long like you are thinking. It doe look like is is struggling just a bit on the draw. I would tun it down as far as I could (specs show #13). Get a wrist sling and work on that hand placement on the bow. try and get him to not grip it.

I love to see the young kids shoot. They catch on so fast and they improve in leaps and bounds and that boosts their confidence. Keep up the good work!!

[Rat]

Everything cmh2007 and popup menace said.

For the first few weeks just let him shoot, don't get too caught up in getting every little thing perfect with his form. This can overburden a new shooter and make it a chore instead of being fun. Just make sure he isn't making glaring mistakes, like using the wrong eye or something. Focus on the basics, standing, anchor, release and follow through; the other stuff can come later, keep it fun.

You really need to get that DL changed and the release adjusted; if not these will cause bad form habits that are very hard to break. Remember, it is a better to be a little too short on DL than a little too long (unless you are Reo Wilde!).

[Stoof]

What rat said. My 8 year old has been shooting since 4. I try to keep it fun and draw weight low. It's all form and fun for us right now. He'll kill something eventually but I'm not in a rush. He's shooting a Nuclear Ice and I probably need to upgrade him soon. It's also good to figure out how to adjust his bow yourself. They grow quick.