Let's Talk ILF

[jreyna920]

Found one online, looks like it's a lot of angle, but I know nothing about ILF or warf bows

[RickBarbee]

Here it is as is.

[jreyna920]

Nvm that's not the bow I found

[huntinpool]

http://www.tradtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30108

a little info for ya'


Heres another that may help out. Better info in this one.

http://www.tradtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17499

Looks like your gonna have a 22-23 degree limb angle. If you make some type of wedge or have your plates beveled to reduce the angle to 17-19 degrees you will gain a little more on limbs and have a little more adjustability. Don't forget to take pics along the way.
I googled martin Lynx Warf and found some pics of some and the above threads with info. There may be more on TT , yoou might try a search there as well.

[ferguson620]

thanks

Gentlemen,

Thanks for the suggestion to check with Tradtalk. Sorry about the question, I thought ILF was just another term for modern recurve limbs.

Turns out this is a whole new side of archery I have never heard of. Appears that it involves customizing existing take down recurve bows and something called Warfing using compound risers. I've got lots of research to do. Thanks again. Don

[RickBarbee]

The Lynx riser I have here is actually the riser from a Martin Lynx recurve, which was a Martin production warf, and is the same riser as the Lynx compound. Same goes for the Firecat risers I have.

I have three of the Lynx risers, but this is the only one that has actual limb pockets, so I figured it would be better for an ILF convert, because the pockets will provide lateral stability to the limbs.

Todd, while reading the second of the two links you provided, one guy said that the length of the riser he was using (a lynx like mine) canceled out the limb pad angle problem, and when he ordered limbs for it, they came very near the draw weight on the bow as they were marked.

If I actually need to, the angle will be fairly easily compensated for. This riser does have the ball bearing pockets, and I have several sets of old limbs that fit it. I'm thinking if I make the angle of the adapter plates to be the same angle as the old limbs on the ball bearings, I should be within the 15 - 19 degree angle that is recommended.

Rick

[Breeze430]

Having just started researching ILF trad bows. The info here has been very helpful. Thanks!

Breeze

[r2h]

Rick, how are you going to mount the adapter plates. If I were you, I would drill, tap and use screws, at least at first. This will give you an opportunity to check what you have come up with before using any wedges or changing angles. The screws can also be permanent unless you decide to epoxy the plates later. I still believe that "shorts" might limit your draw if trying for a 64" bow.

Ronny

[RickBarbee]

Hey Ronny. Thanks for the advice.

Yes, I planned on drilling and tapping the riser, and mounting the plates with screws for the first runs of adjustment. My plan is to us shims under the plates, and lock it all in place with the screws to find the angle I want/need. Once I have it all lined out the way it need to be, then I will permanently attach the plates in place with epoxy, and leave the shims & screws in place.

I'm pretty sure, that if I can match the angle of the ILF limbs to that of the original limbs I will be right where I need to be.

Rick

[RickBarbee]

I have the adapter plates fitting nicely into the limb pockets.
Very snug, but move easily. Like machine fit.

I cut some 1/16" shims, and placed them under the outside/front edges of the plates.

Someone do the math. If I started with 22 - 23 degrees, what does the raising of 1/16" make the angle now?

I've been slowly taking the riser down to bare metal. You can see the old original blue color in one of the pictures.
I'm going to get some paint stripper to finish it up, and then sand everything down smooth.

I plan on going black again, but rather than using paint, I am going to use truck bed liner.

I'm also going to be doing some inlay work, but I'll save that & pictures of it for later.

Here's where I am so far.

Rick

[r2h]

Rick, be sure you check the measurement from the dovetail detent to the limb bolt. The ILF fitting needs to hold the contact and not the limb bolt. The limb should just meet and not ride on the limb bolt bushing (bushing for limb fit that goes over the limb bolt). Should be right at 2 1/8" from detent to brass bushing.

Ronny

[huntinpool]

Rick, be sure you check the measurement from the dovetail detent to the limb bolt. The ILF fitting needs to hold the contact and not the limb bolt. The limb should just meet and not ride on the limb bolt bushing (bushing for limb fit that goes over the limb bolt). Should be right at 2 1/8" from detent to brass bushing.

Ronny

What he said. 2 1/4" would even be OK. You don't want the limb to bottom out or touch the bolt bushing.
Looking good so far. Your plates really fit well , you'll be ready for some limbs soon. Just holla when your ready.

[JEFFRO]

so whats I L F stand for,...

[RickBarbee]

Thanks guys. I plan to get all the ILF hardware, and gauge fit everything before I permanently affix any of it.

I still need to examine how it all goes together to get it all down. Anybody have a diagram/spread sheet of the parts, and how it all goes together?

so whats I L F stand for,...

International Limb Fit. There are several manufacturers of both ILF risers, and limbs, and they will all interchange with one another. Plus their upper line of limb products are on the cutting edge of material combinations & resulting performance.

I'm probably going to go with a middle of the road set of limbs to start with (carbon/woods), but may upgrade later to the all carbon depending on how I like the rig.

Rick

[RickBarbee]

Here she is stripped down to the bare metal, and almost ready for a new skin.

Also a sneak preview of one of the inlays she is getting.

Good thing about this riser is - if the ILF don't work out, I have several sets of Martin factory recurve limbs that fit her, and work real good, so I don't risk losing anything in the project.

Rick