DIY draw board

[muddyfuzzy]

a draw board is a very useful tool, after a little research I decided to build one. it took about and hour and a half and was real simple and cheap to do (bout' 30 bones).

here is what you need to get started.

(1) 2x6x8 cut down to 6'
(8) .250"x1.500" lag bolts
(8) .250" washers
(1) 36" yard stick in .125" increments
(1) .500 npt floor flange
(1) .500"x5" npt nipple
(1) .500 pvc threaded cap
(1) 160# turnbuckle
(40') 550 paracord
(1) 600# boat winch
(2) 1.000"dry wall screws
(5") pipe insulation

[muddyfuzzy]

after cutting your 2x6 down to 6' scribe a centerline down the width. using a bow square or by simply using a nocked arrow measure the height from the nock to the throat of the grip. both my bows were 2.375" so i'll use my measurements as an example. working off the center line (bow end) on the 2x6 I offset the center line of the floor flange 1.375". on the opposite end (winch end) i offset the winch center line 1.000". the total ctc between the two equals the 2.375" i measured on my bows.

working off these centers layout and drill .125" pilot holes to mount the floor flange and winch to the 2x6.

[muddyfuzzy]

next, calculate where the outside of the pipe will be once inserted in the floor flange. using the draw wall screws attach the yard stick so the end of it touched the outermost part of the pipe (the throat of the bow grip). afterwards use (4) .250x1.500 lag bolts and washers to attach the floor flange to the draw board on top of the yard stick. snug them down and insert the .500"x5.000" nipple into the flange. lastly, install the plastic cap on the nipple.

repeat the installation of the winch on the other end in a similar manner.

[muddyfuzzy]

after securing the winch to the draw board attach and feed the 550 paracord onto the winch per the instructions supplied from the manufacturer. attach the 160# turnbuckle to the end of the winch line. lastly, slide the insulation over the nipple to prevent damage to the bow while drawing.

slide your bow up to the pipe and attach the turnbuckle. you are now ready to really check out the health of your current set-up.

now go double your money and make a stack!

[rocky]

Seems simple enough if I feel I ever have the need for a draw-board.

[muddyfuzzy]

its interesting to see what different manufactures call say, 28" draw length. its a great tool for fine tuning draw length and checking lean @ full draw. but for me it is really nice for the strother so I can check rotation off the cable stops then bring the limb stops where they need to be. I really prefer to make adjustments off a quantifiable visual indicator rather than on just feel alone.

just another tool in the box.

[EarleyBird]

Yes, quantifiable visual indicators are the way to go. Hands down.

[rocky]

its interesting to see what different manufactures call say, 28" draw length. its a great tool for fine tuning draw length and checking lean @ full draw. but for me it is really nice for the strother so I can check rotation off the cable stops then bring the limb stops where they need to be. I really prefer to make adjustments off a quantifiable visual indicator rather than on just feel alone.

just another tool in the box.

Exactly.
Keep in mind, a hand drawn bow vs. a drawboard drawn bow are two different things.

[EarleyBird]

Oh, it absolutely goes without saying!

If you don't have quantifiable visual indicators, you're screwed.

I've been a huge supporter of quantifiable visual indicators for years.

Good post, man; good post.

[12RingKing]

Seems simple enough if I feel I ever have the need for a draw-board.

You operate a bowshop?

[12RingKing]

Good job muddyfuzzy....

I have a bow time machine but have thought of building one very similar to yours....

I also have built the ryobi miter saw Stand hooter shooter.....I use it for a drawboard as well....

[rocky]

You operate a bowshop?

Yes.
If you're implying that a bow can't be tuned properly without using a draw-board, you would be mistaken.

[12RingKing]

Yes.
If you're implying that a bow can't be tuned properly without using a draw-board, you would be mistaken.

Anything can be done....

Having tools makes you more accurate. It's funny though, no shops around me have them.

Every shop in the Midwest and east coast seem to have them. Interesting....

If it can help the tuning process and make you a better tech....why not have one?
When precision on dual limb stop or cable stop bows is needed, How do you do it? How do you measure accurately DL? A draw stick or the easton arrow?

It just dosnt make sense to me that the usefulness of the draw board isn't utilized by more shops, atleast here in the gulf coast.

[rocky]

Anything can be done....

Having tools makes you more accurate. It's funny though, no shops around me have them.

Every shop in the Midwest and east coast seem to have them. Interesting....

If it can help the tuning process and make you a better tech....why not have one?
When precision on dual limb stop or cable stop bows is needed, How do you do it? How do you measure accurately DL? A draw stick or the easton arrow?

It just dosnt make sense to me that the usefulness of the draw board isn't utilized by more shops, atleast here in the gulf coast.

A hand-drawn bow and a machine drawn bow are not the same as I stated earlier.
That being said, I can see where a draw-board might be useful in checking cam-lean, but in all reality cam-lean on bows with split harness' is truly an individual setting if so desired, taking into account that individual's hand placement and torque.
AS far as seeing DL, a draw-board will tell you the DL on the board, but when that same bow is drawn by hand, it will be different, and in nearly all cases will be longer, especially a cable-stop bow.
AS far as timing, the same thing applies, so I personally time by feel, then paper, then broadheads if the customer so chooses.
I have been timing dual cam bows for many, many years, and while I don't think I know it all, or never make mistakes, I have a good feel, and do a pretty good job.
Yes, I use an accurate DL arrow

[Mudslinger]

Well said Rocky. I agree with you 100%. I built a draw board, but like you said, it will be different than waht a person drawing will be because of the hand placement and pressure applied at the grip by the hand vs the steel rod on a draw board.