Broadhead sharpening

[quackadikt]

Depends on what kind of broadheads. If it’s a 2 blade or a 2 blade with bleeders, I use the wooden Lansky block with the ceramic sticks at 25*. Gets them past shaving sharp in no time.




3 blades I use a diamond stone and ceramic rods.

I had a staysharp once too, and have the same complaint as others. Polished it real nice, won’t cut paper. But I can’t use a Set Angle sharpening setup worth a crap either, so it might just be me.


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[MnM]

I am currently using a stay sharp for the 4 blade Magnus ser razor also using the Innovative guide video. I’m able to shave hair, but don’t like lining up the different blade lengths from the jig. I’m tempted to change broadhead to a VPA 3 blade for simplicity. Anyone one else in the same boat as me?

[Tsig]

Well I finally figured out the stay sharp trick. What all these youtube videos don't tell you is that you need to start with a 320 and spend a lot of time. It takes roughly 15-20 min with the 320 from there you move on to 400 and so forth. I do recommend finishing with a strop. I went from having dull shiny heads to stupid sharp shiny heads.

[quackadikt]

I am currently using a stay sharp for the 4 blade Magnus ser razor also using the Innovative guide video. I’m able to shave hair, but don’t like lining up the different blade lengths from the jig. I’m tempted to change broadhead to a VPA 3 blade for simplicity. Anyone one else in the same boat as me?

Those crock sticks I posted will get a Magnus sharp in no time.


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[sir shovelhands]

Well I finally figured out the stay sharp trick. What all these youtube videos don't tell you is that you need to start with a 320 and spend a lot of time. It takes roughly 15-20 min with the 320 from there you move on to 400 and so forth. I do recommend finishing with a strop. I went from having dull shiny heads to stupid sharp shiny heads.

The duller the blade, the coarser the grit you should start with. My knives that still have somewhat of an edge I'll start with 600 and finish with 1500. The blunt ones I start at 120 and work up to 320, 600, 1500.

[Briar Friar]

I use a fine diamond stone, sand paper and a leather strop along with the stay sharp jig.. key is to not let the head get real dull.. I sharpen almost everything out of the package .

This for me...minus the sand paper...seems redundant...and minus stay sharp jig (even though Inhave one and have used it). I finger my blades to feel the edge on the stone. I back blade wipe on my pants to deburr some between strokes. I mounted a fine diamond and screwed leather to a 2x4x3’ and it handles nicely having everything consolidated. 10 strokes. Flip. 10 strokes, flip. 5 strokes etc. 3 strokes etc. 1 stroke etc. 1 stroke etc. Stroke lighter. Stroke even lighter. Etc.

I really struggled for a long while sharpening until a late night last year when I got the idea to back blade on the fine stone. Hairs started popping afterwards and I almost shaved my arm bald...I was so excited. Just a few light passes and boom. It really helps on maintaining too...I can simply back blade a few time on a dull knife or broadhead and its back in business. Ive gotten to where I only forward blade to recondition a dull blade.

Sharpie your edge to see that your actually hitting the bevel and edge.

Glad you found something that works Tsig. I hope the critters bleed profusely and I see your LDPs.

[HelmCrusher]

I got a stay sharp guide, grey, a few weeks ago. Loved it for the main blade on the Magnus Stinger. Hated it for the the bleeders, they kept moving on me.

Make sure you draw a line on the broad head next to the guide. If your blade moves you can readjust so you keep the same angle.

Yes you need to start at a 220/320 grit and work your way up. Since you are starting with a new angle for your edge you have to start very coarse, and work the metal down evenly on both sides. Definitely need to use a sharpie to prove that you are actually reshaping the entire edge. It took me about about 15 minutes on 220, 10 strokes up and down on both sides till all the sharpie was off. Reapply the sharpie several times to make sure. After the sharpie was gone I moved to 800 then 1500 then 2500 then a strop. Took about and hour or hour and fifteen minutes per broad head. They are scary sharp now.

[lovemylegacy]

Lansky

[Low Fence]

.... yeah, I’m not working an hour-2 hours to sharpen a blade. I can get new for $3. I can hand sharpen a moderately sharp to satisfaction in 5 minutes

[Tsig]

.... yeah, I’m not working an hour-2 hours to sharpen a blade. I can get new for $3. I can hand sharpen a moderately sharp to satisfaction in 5 minutes

.... lol where are these 3$ broadheaads at

[Low Fence]

Replaceable blades. Came out in the early 80’s

Or muzzys on sale for $9 a 3 pk

[IbeHuntn]

Diamond stones and leather. I shoot 3 blade VPA’s so I just them flat on the stones and go to work


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[wdtorque]

Used this at lunch yesterday. Almost and sharper will work. Keep a consistent angle and use a sharpy on the edge to see your angle if needed. Don’t sharpen anything after 1 brown water. Just sayin....


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[ctom87]

Purchased a strop today because of this thread.

Last night I took my 3000 and 8000 whetstone and ran one of my new, unused broadheads across it. I was not sure if I needed to sharpen something straight from the factory.

Well, I only did one and I compared it to one that I didn't touch. It was hard to tell a difference, but I actually think after 8000, I may have slightly dulled the broadhead I worked on. The difference may have been negligable.

I took that same broadhead and ran it across the coarse leather with a compound 10 times on each side. I then did it 15 times on each side on the fine side of the strop.

I could definitely tell a difference after using the strop. I now have a mirror like finish on my broadheads and they are now sharper than the factory finish they came with.

[Low Fence]

Hand sharpened and stroped SlickTrick. Both big bones in shoulder... STILL razor sharp