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    #16
    Originally posted by sideways View Post
    Why does it have to be vertical?


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    I agree horizontal would be easier but it is by my barndo that has vertical siding. I want to keep it uniform.

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      #17
      Following

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        #18
        Use angle at the bottom turned outward so it makes a ledge for the tin to set on. The middle and the top, use 2"x2"x1/8" angle and notch like sasqy said. Cheapest way and still stout.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Draco View Post
          Use angle at the bottom turned outward so it makes a ledge for the tin to set on. The middle and the top, use 2"x2"x1/8" angle and notch like sasqy said. Cheapest way and still stout.
          How should I attach the angle? Screw? Bolt? Weld?

          Thanks

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            #20
            I would screw it. It will just be so much faster than welding and those hoop sheds are very thin metal. If you ever decide to pour a slab, with the angle turned outward, the angle becomes the forms. I've done it a couple times and it worked great.

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              #21
              If it was me, I'd do a hybrid of what Draco suggested and CWKATNER suggeseted. I'd put the angle at the bottom and use C-perlins middle/top. You can get brackets for the perlins that will allow you to cut them to fit flush between the posts and it all screws together. You can do that whole project with a drill with a screw head adapter and a reciprocating saw or abrasive chop saw if you get your sheet metal pre-cut.

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                #22
                Is the c perlin a lot more expensive than the 2" angle? Well the self drilling screws go thru the angle without pre drilling? Thanks for the help.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by HuntForHorns View Post
                  Is the c perlin a lot more expensive than the 2" angle? Well the self drilling screws go thru the angle without pre drilling? Thanks for the help.


                  You will spend more time and burn up more self tappers not drilling vs drilling! I learned that one the hard way. Also, don’t just drill a tiny pilot hole, you will twist many, many heads off


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                    #24
                    Also, the perlins will be galvanized just like your existing frame. If you use regular old angle iron, you'll be drilling forever and if you don't paint the angle iron, it will rust and stain the inside of your sheeting.

                    Edit to add: Also use galvanized drill screws with washers/rubber inserts

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                      #25
                      He can't use purlins unless he cuts them to fit between the posts because the tin doesn't go out far enough to cover the wall tin if he does. The angle is the best bet. Use TEK screws. They will drill through both just fine. If you're burning them up then you aren't pushing on them hard enough.

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                        #26
                        Yea, like I posted, he can cut them to fit between the posts and everything will fit flush to the posts and use those little angle brackets to drill screw the purlins to the posts. My barn is put together like this only they spotwelded the brackets... wish they hadn't as I'm changing the configuration now and screws would have been easier to make the changes...

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                          #27
                          I wouldn't use any thing that is 1/8 inch thick for trying to screw through. Not worth the head ache of trying to get a couple hundred screws through it or predrilling. I would do like saltwaterslick mentioned above and use cpurlin for everything. Will be way easier to deal with and purlin is cheap. And don't be stingy with your screws they give you a big bag of them for a reason. And I wouldn't even consider turning them horizontal will look goofy and won't be as stout as vertical.

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                            #28
                            Listen to Draco. If you are burning up screws you aren’t using the right ones.

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