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Old 03-18-2018, 02:07 PM   #1
firemanjj82
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Default Necessary Upgrades

I have bought a Ruger Predator in 6.5 CM. It comes with a Nikon Prostaff 4-12x50, a padded cheek rest, and muzzle brake.

Is there anything y'all suggest to do or not do? This is my first long range rifle, so baby steps.
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:11 PM   #2
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This is it, without bipod.
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:19 PM   #3
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Add a bipod and get rid of the muzzle brake. The brake isnít necessary with a CM. It will just **** people off shooting by you, blow crap everywhere if you are shooting prone or be obnoxious in a blind.


Sierracharlie outÖ
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:30 PM   #4
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Toss the break and better glass are the first things I would personally fo
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:32 PM   #5
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Shoot it a bunch and then decide.

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Old 03-18-2018, 02:33 PM   #6
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Suppressor instead of the brake
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:51 PM   #7
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Suppressor instead of the brake
I've read that the barrel doesn't like the can too much, and that it causes your zero to drop. This might be the case for all cans, seeing how I don't have much experience with them. Plus, from a quick search, that's a grand easy. What's the benefit of a suppressor besides being quiet.
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:51 PM   #8
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For long range, better glass. And let me buy that scope off of you lol.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:54 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by sierracharlie338 View Post
Add a bipod and get rid of the muzzle brake. The brake isnít necessary with a CM. It will just **** people off shooting by you, blow crap everywhere if you are shooting prone or be obnoxious in a blind.


Sierracharlie outÖ
Which one? I've read that a bipod can mess with accuracy.
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:54 PM   #10
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Boyds stock, better scope, trigger job.
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:07 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by firemanjj82 View Post
Which one? I've read that a bipod can mess with accuracy.

Iím not trying to be a smart *** but you need to vet what you are reading bud. People that canít shoot will likely blame a bipod.

Either a Harris with the tilt feature or an Atlas if you want the Cadillac.

To answer your question on the suppressor yes it will change you point of impact but you make the adjustment in the scope for the shift. They are quieter so they donít make you and your friends/ family deaf when you are shooting them. Your shooting will spook game less than conventional rifles. If you donít want/have the money to spend on it thatís one thing but donít not buy one because it changes you point of impact.


Sierracharlie outÖ
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:25 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by sierracharlie338 View Post
Iím not trying to be a smart *** but you need to vet what you are reading bud. People that canít shoot will likely blame a bipod.

Either a Harris with the tilt feature or an Atlas if you want the Cadillac.

To answer your question on the suppressor yes it will change you point of impact but you make the adjustment in the scope for the shift. They are quieter so they donít make you and your friends/ family deaf when you are shooting them. Your shooting will spook game less than conventional rifles. If you donít want/have the money to spend on it thatís one thing but donít not buy one because it changes you point of impact.


Sierracharlie outÖ
No need to apologize. I need information. I'm not one to take what I read outside of TBH as gospel. That's why I'm asking for further clarification.

In regards to a suppressor, it's not in the cards right now, but not out of the question. Again, I'm needing education on these things.
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:13 PM   #13
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You have a good start bud. Iíd shoot it some and get comfortable with it. Definitely take off the brake though unless you are super recoil sensitive. Just donít need it for a 6.5.

No worries on the suppressor. I shot a precision rifle for many years before I got one.

Maybe a trigger later on (Iím not familiar with the ruger stock triggers) like a Timney. Better glass later on isnít a bad idea either.

Right now the only thing Iíd add is a bipod and about 200 rounds of ammo.


Sierracharlie outÖ
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:30 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by firemanjj82 View Post
I've read that the barrel doesn't like the can too much, and that it causes your zero to drop. This might be the case for all cans, seeing how I don't have much experience with them. Plus, from a quick search, that's a grand easy. What's the benefit of a suppressor besides being quiet.
Thinner the barrel the larger the POI shift from on to off. But as long as it is repeatable, it does not matter. Just sight in with it on and shoot with it on.

Advantage, recoil, sound and some claim that it make a better transition to flight (I am not in that group).

Once I started shooting suppressed.....I will not shoot unsuppressed except for my legacy guns.
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by sierracharlie338 View Post
You have a good start bud. Iíd shoot it some and get comfortable with it. Definitely take off the brake though unless you are super recoil sensitive. Just donít need it for a 6.5.

No worries on the suppressor. I shot a precision rifle for many years before I got one.

Maybe a trigger later on (Iím not familiar with the ruger stock triggers) like a Timney. Better glass later on isnít a bad idea either.

Right now the only thing Iíd add is a bipod and about 200 rounds of ammo.


Sierracharlie outÖ
Sounds good. Thanks.
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:29 PM   #16
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The Ruger Americans are notorious for not being free floated properly in the factory stock. Mine was touching the barrel in 2 places before I got after it with the dremel and some sand paper. This issue could be magnified by adding a bipod in the flexible plastic factory stock. You can visually check it as well as slide a dollar bill between the stock and barrel to make sure itís good. If the bill hangs up, just pop the 2 screws out of the bottom and remove the action/ barrel. Then you can remove some of the stock material to make it free float. There are also various methods that people use to add rigidity and weight to these stocks, you tube will help you there. I would check the float and add a bipod before I even shot the gun. Caldwell makes an ok bipod for the money, but I would go for the Harris.

You may decide to upgrade your scope later on, but I would shoot it some first. Get a few different kinds of ammo, and find which one it likes best. When you really stretch it out is when the scope might show its weakness.

If you have the thread protector, you can remove the muzzle break, if not, I would leave it on. You donít want to booger your threads, in case you want to add a suppressor later. I have the QD muzzle break for my suppressor on mine, but it never gets shot without the can, so no one around me has to suffer from my muzzle breaks side effects.

Some other upgrades available include: various stock replacements, Timney trigger upgrade, and bolt knob/shroud upgrades. These are definitely not mandatory, but they are out there. There is also a 20moa base available that you might look into... if you upgrade the scope. Just depends on how far you want to shoot, and your chosen scopes adjustability.
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Old 03-18-2018, 09:35 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by lungbuster1985 View Post
The Ruger Americans are notorious for not being free floated properly in the factory stock. Mine was touching the barrel in 2 places before I got after it with the dremel and some sand paper. This issue could be magnified by adding a bipod in the flexible plastic factory stock. You can visually check it as well as slide a dollar bill between the stock and barrel to make sure itís good. If the bill hangs up, just pop the 2 screws out of the bottom and remove the action/ barrel. Then you can remove some of the stock material to make it free float. There are also various methods that people use to add rigidity and weight to these stocks, you tube will help you there. I would check the float and add a bipod before I even shot the gun. Caldwell makes an ok bipod for the money, but I would go for the Harris.

You may decide to upgrade your scope later on, but I would shoot it some first. Get a few different kinds of ammo, and find which one it likes best. When you really stretch it out is when the scope might show its weakness.

If you have the thread protector, you can remove the muzzle break, if not, I would leave it on. You donít want to booger your threads, in case you want to add a suppressor later. I have the QD muzzle break for my suppressor on mine, but it never gets shot without the can, so no one around me has to suffer from my muzzle breaks side effects.

Some other upgrades available include: various stock replacements, Timney trigger upgrade, and bolt knob/shroud upgrades. These are definitely not mandatory, but they are out there. There is also a 20moa base available that you might look into... if you upgrade the scope. Just depends on how far you want to shoot, and your chosen scopes adjustability.
Awesome info. I did the dollar trick today with no issues, but I did notice the stock being able to flex very easily. I don't have a thread protector for it, but I will look into it for the sake of being able to take off the brake.

I am going to give the scope a chance, but I had been looking for a Vortex before I got it. We'll see how she does tomorrow.
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by firemanjj82 View Post
Awesome info. I did the dollar trick today with no issues, but I did notice the stock being able to flex very easily. I don't have a thread protector for it, but I will look into it for the sake of being able to take off the brake.

I am going to give the scope a chance, but I had been looking for a Vortex before I got it. We'll see how she does tomorrow.
You can stiffen it with some epoxy and all-thread
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:49 PM   #19
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Spray adhesive some foam pipe insulation to the end of the stock for a big buttpad...more cushion for pushin.

Spray adhesive some pipe foam on the comb of the stock for a permanent cheek weld cushion.

Neither are absolutely necessary but make the rifle super comfortable...like spooning a skinny gal with a donkey butt.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:02 PM   #20
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Took it to the range today. First pic is at 50 yards just to see where I was at, with the next two at 100. Shooting Hornady 120 ELD Match, as well as Prime 130 Match to see which one I liked better. Both boxes said 4" high at 100 for 300 zero. I feel like it's pretty good for first time out, and with windy conditions. A bipod would definitely help, or sand bags. These were done using a block rest.

For further details, the hole at 1 o'clock on the first pic is actually two shots, and the third pic is while I was aiming at the bottom point of the diamond. I'm wanting to try the Hornady 140 ELD-X as my primary round, but I'm open for suggestions.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:47 AM   #21
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As has been said, stiffen the forearm. I used Rockite in mine. Youtube is your friend. The stock flexes enough that even if it is floated at rest it likely touches during recoil. Easy trigger job on these. Mine is crisp, clean and safe at just under 2#. Mine loves the Hornady Black 140 BTHP, easily a half minute gun with it. Not a good hunting ammo though. I handload 143 ELDx at around 2740 FPS.

I have also added an MDT chassis system to mine, as I needed the added ammo capacity to shoot PRS with it. Which style mags does yours use, the original rotary or the box mag?
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:54 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemanjj82 View Post
I have bought a Ruger Predator in 6.5 CM. It comes with a Nikon Prostaff 4-12x50, a padded cheek rest, and muzzle brake.

Is there anything y'all suggest to do or not do? This is my first long range rifle, so baby steps.

what is your definition of "long range shooting" ?

are you gonna shoot deer/hogs at 300-400 yds, and paper/steel at 1000 yds ?

2 things I would do .... as already mentioned, fix the Tupperware stock. Get it properly bedded to prevent the barreled-action from moving in the stock and changing POI. If your time and budget allow, look into reloading which will fine tune accuracy.
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:07 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by bearintex View Post
As has been said, stiffen the forearm. I used Rockite in mine. Youtube is your friend. The stock flexes enough that even if it is floated at rest it likely touches during recoil. Easy trigger job on these. Mine is crisp, clean and safe at just under 2#. Mine loves the Hornady Black 140 BTHP, easily a half minute gun with it. Not a good hunting ammo though. I handload 143 ELDx at around 2740 FPS.

I have also added an MDT chassis system to mine, as I needed the added ammo capacity to shoot PRS with it. Which style mags does yours use, the original rotary or the box mag?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajun Blake View Post
what is your definition of "long range shooting" ?

are you gonna shoot deer/hogs at 300-400 yds, and paper/steel at 1000 yds ?

2 things I would do .... as already mentioned, fix the Tupperware stock. Get it properly bedded to prevent the barreled-action from moving in the stock and changing POI. If your time and budget allow, look into reloading which will fine tune accuracy.
In regards to the mag, it's the rotary. I'm wanting to replace with the box, though.

In regards to long range, I'm wanting to be solid at 500, and hit steel at 1000. I'm also interested in handloading, upgrading the stock and optics. In due time.
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:48 AM   #24
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Default Necessary Upgrades

Only options to replace are to change the stock. One of the chassis (MDT or ICD) or wait for the Magpul unicorn theyíve been promising for a year. This is mine in an MDT chassis. Athlon Ares 4.5-27 on top.


Last edited by bearintex; 03-20-2018 at 09:50 AM.
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemanjj82 View Post
Awesome info. I did the dollar trick today with no issues, but I did notice the stock being able to flex very easily. I don't have a thread protector for it, but I will look into it for the sake of being able to take off the brake.

I am going to give the scope a chance, but I had been looking for a Vortex before I got it. We'll see how she does tomorrow.
BEFORE you decide on a scope, find some dealer where you can really look down range if possible. Many know I an a Nikon fan, Monarch specific with 50mm bell and not a Vortex fan, but that's MY opinion as to what fits my needs and my eyes. I don't trash other brands as some do on the GS because everyone's performance is based again on their eyes/relief/light gathering/focus and of course budget. But I'm a renegade, lol...you ought to hear me and my "sniper" son argue about equipment...old fart vs the young. have FUN and congrats on a new adventure!
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Old 03-20-2018, 07:42 PM   #26
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Verify your free floating while on the bag/rest/bipod.

Our CM like the cheap Hornady Black 140 BTHP. was hitting steel at 1000, and shooting way sub MOA at 300
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:05 AM   #27
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I did some Dremmel work on my stock to ensure it did not come in contact with the barrel. You can do a youtube search on this, there are several videos. My main work was at the front of the stock where I had to remove quite a bit of material. Lastly you can cut a couple of coils off the spring in the trigger to get the pull lighter. I think the stock trigger is pretty good with a couple of coils cut off and I have a rifle with a Jewel trigger in it so I have a pretty good idea what a good trigger feels like. There are youtube video's for this also.

I know a bunch of people hate the stock and it is pretty flimsy but I do not have an issue with it since I did some work to it. With that said I am going to get the Magpul when it comes out but that is only because I think it looks cool.
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Old 03-21-2018, 04:43 PM   #28
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I like the idea of a new stock altogether, especially seeing how reasonable they are. I will start, though, probably with bedding this one better, a bipod, and new glass.
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