Problems with laquer cresting and Blazer vanes

[BGRAX]

Well, I decided to try my hand at spraying my own cresting with laquer spray paint. I did the base in white and followed up with a red fade then covered all with a clear gloss laquer final coat. I have a Bohning right helical jig. After allowing paint to sit for more than 24 hours after the final coat was applied, I fletched the arrows with Blazer vanes using the R helical jig. After the arrows set up for ywt another full24 hours, I first notice the area where the glue (Fletchtite Platinum) is discoloring the paint. Almost like its eating through it. When I shoot them through my QAD ultra Hunter rest, 1-2 of the non cock vanes rip off. I am shooting a Hoyt CRX 32 set at 70# with a 29.5" DL. Is it the rest or the glue and why is it eating through the laquer paint? A
Any help or suggestions is appreciated.

[oktx]

Same for me. Had better luck with loctite superglue gel.

[Mudslinger]

Lots of glues will "melt" the surface they have to adhere to. Sounds like this is what is happening.

[BGRAX]

The melting look makes them look bad. Am I using too much glue?

[Mudslinger]

Probably not, it is just the nature of some glues. Might want to cut back on some of the glue. Most on the market today does not need much glue.

[BGRAX]

Okay. Will do. What about tearing vanes off with every shot?

[Mudslinger]

If you are tearing vanes off with every shot, then you may be getting contact with the rest or bow or your glue is not up to snuff.

[Texas Grown]

If you are tearing vanes off with every shot, then you may be getting contact with the rest or bow or your glue is not up to snuff.

^^^^ This. And use the Platinum sparingly. And yes it dose eat through the lacquer. If you used something else besides lacquer to fade with, even though you have a coat over it, when the glue hits it, it may stop at that spot causing weakness in adhesion. And not making it through the second/original coat of lacquer. Just a tip . I've done a ton of fades using 2 and 3 colors with differing paints and no fletching probs; unless I shoot my fletching into the target where I have to push it out backwards . Or I try to adhear to non-lacquer paint. This is why Bohning makes lacquer paints.

Another tip: after fletching a shaft, put a small drop at both ends of each fletch. This will help keep them on the shaft and from peeling off when they hit something. The small drop in the front acts as a ramp when the front of the fletch hits something. The one in the rear helps with strength where the fletch is worked the hardest from air turbulence.

[BGRAX]

Okay. Thanks. I recrested my arrows and used both loctite gel and some gorilla gel. Arrows look good. I also realized my tiller adjustments were off. Would this cause the arrow to fly erratically?