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Old 01-08-2018, 05:25 PM   #1
MEsquivel
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Default 5/16 arrow question

Hey guys!
I got a new set of arrows a friend made me in leopard wood.
They're nice and heavy. Straight and spinned just right.
Well I cut them to length and got my 160 fieldpoints on and they flew like darts.
The problem started when I tried on a broadhead.
My arrows went everywhere. I only have one (with a tusker bh) that flew true.

Now here comes my questions:
Do 5/16" arrows necessarily need bh's with a 5/16 ferule? Can 11/32 bhs work?

Does anyone know of a maker of a 160gr bh in a 5/16 ferule?

I feel like a newbie. But I guess I am new to the 5/16's.
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Old 01-08-2018, 05:56 PM   #2
jerp
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Old 01-08-2018, 06:19 PM   #3
Dkincaid
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Did you spin test them


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Old 01-08-2018, 06:33 PM   #4
MEsquivel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkincaid View Post
Did you spin test them


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Yes. Theyre not that great.
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Old 01-08-2018, 06:35 PM   #5
MEsquivel
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I melted 50gr of fishing sinker into an 110gr 5/16 broadhead.
That should work.
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Old 01-08-2018, 07:02 PM   #6
Trumpkin
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The mismatched diameters won't affect arrow flight. Sounds like a broadhead alignment issue. As stated, spin check them, tweak them, remount them. Do whatever it takes to get them spinning true. After that you can start to worry about inconsistent arrow flight.
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Old 01-09-2018, 07:30 AM   #7
BernieH
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They could be a tad weak in spine. It may not show up with a field point but a broadhead would magnify it. Try a lighter broadhead or build out the sideplate. The above assumes the assembled arrows are spinning well.
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Old 01-09-2018, 11:22 AM   #8
MEsquivel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trumpkin View Post
The mismatched diameters won't affect arrow flight. Sounds like a broadhead alignment issue. As stated, spin check them, tweak them, remount them. Do whatever it takes to get them spinning true. After that you can start to worry about inconsistent arrow flight.
Thats whats happening.
The ferule is larger then my shaft and I cant get them to line up exactly in the middle with a little wobble room all around.

Quote:
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They could be a tad weak in spine. It may not show up with a field point but a broadhead would magnify it. Try a lighter broadhead or build out the sideplate. The above assumes the assembled arrows are spinning well.
These have been tested and spine is the same as my other arrows.
the only thing that changes is the diameter and overall weight.
Leopardwood shafts are heavy.
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Old 01-09-2018, 11:37 AM   #9
Phillip Fields
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Since they are a smaller diameter, that could change the tune. Think of it as with a smaller diameter arrow the center of the arrow is closer to the centerline of the bow. Probably not the case here, but something to think about.
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Old 01-09-2018, 11:40 AM   #10
stickbowcoop
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3Rivers Archery sells adapter rings for using 11/32" points on smaller diameter shafts. That have a lot of size options so maybe you can find one to fit your 5/16" arrows. It would allow you to push the head square to the adapter to maybe make it easier to get a good spin. Just an idea.
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Old 01-09-2018, 11:59 AM   #11
caughtandhobble
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Happy New Year my Friend... I can't help out, sorry. I do want to see pictures, you always have the prettiest arrows.
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Old 01-09-2018, 01:30 PM   #12
BernieH
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Smaller diameter would make the shafts act stiffer when shot even if they spine the same as your other arrows.

Heavier mass would make the shafts act less stiff when shot even if they spine the same as your other arrows.
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Old 01-10-2018, 04:21 PM   #13
MEsquivel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip Fields View Post
Since they are a smaller diameter, that could change the tune. Think of it as with a smaller diameter arrow the center of the arrow is closer to the centerline of the bow. Probably not the case here, but something to think about.
Iíll have to go back and paper tune. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stickbowcoop View Post
3Rivers Archery sells adapter rings for using 11/32" points on smaller diameter shafts. That have a lot of size options so maybe you can find one to fit your 5/16" arrows. It would allow you to push the head square to the adapter to maybe make it easier to get a good spin. Just an idea.
I looked..no luck. Its all about the spin. Iíll have to reinstall carefully, I guess.

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Originally Posted by caughtandhobble View Post
Happy New Year my Friend... I can't help out, sorry. I do want to see pictures, you always have the prettiest arrows.
Hey Ben! Happy New Years, bud!!
I hope youíre doing well.
I didnt make these. But they sure are nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieH View Post
Smaller diameter would make the shafts act stiffer when shot even if they spine the same as your other arrows.

Heavier mass would make the shafts act less stiff when shot even if they spine the same as your other arrows.
I got lost in this one. I cant figure out why if they where spine tested after they where tappered. But all in all I guess Iíll have to start over and paper tune.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:56 AM   #14
MEsquivel
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Well...still messing with these.

Already frustrated. Adjusted everything. Changed to lighter points, changed nocking point, changed brace height, cut 1 3/4" shorter and got them flying like darts out of my longbow.

Just got in some lighter broadheads in the mail this weekend...

Guess what?

Back to square one.

What have I learned?
Leopardwood will make an expensive fire.
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Old 09-10-2018, 11:22 AM   #15
Branstine
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If you can't get them to spin true with broadheads, then your taper is probably not cut to the proper angle. You won't really notice this with field points. If you use a Woodchuck type tool, be sure your sanding disc is properly aligned (square) with the frame, and make double sure the arrow shaft is straight. That will get you a good taper. If you use a sharpener-type taper tool, it may be impossible to get a good taper on a harder wood like that.
The next thing to check is if your arrows have a straight and properly tapered ferrule. Bears are hard to get straight. Zwickeys vary, the STOS I've used have all been perfect and easy. Being 11/32 at the back of the ferrule shouldn't matter.
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Old 09-10-2018, 07:07 PM   #16
Dkincaid
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I have no idea what leopard wood looks like but it could be that the grain and spine varies at different locations the name makes me think it has splotches? If they spin test true and fly like crap I personally would give up and buy a nice set of cedars or Douglas fir. I see a lot of people making arrows out of different woods but I figure Cedar and fir have stood the test of time no need to reinvent the wheel.


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Old 09-10-2018, 09:36 PM   #17
MEsquivel
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Thats exactly what I figured.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:01 PM   #18
Draco
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Whether 5/15 or 11/32, the taper is the taper for the point is the same. If you have long point tapers on them then the shaft isn't getting tight to the point. The end of the wood shaft is hitting the inside of the 11/32 point keeping the back of the taper from getting tight. Cut half of the taper off and that should let the shaft slide into the point far enough that the shaft will be tight to the point.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:04 AM   #19
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Maybe the way your broadheads are indexed on your shafts? I was just having the same problem with single bevels on carbon shafts. My BHs were at the 2&8 oclock position. I rotated the inserts and BHs went to 3&9 oclock. Issue went away.
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Old 09-11-2018, 09:07 PM   #20
Jon Stewart
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Not sure how your broadheads are mounted but try mounting them with the blades at 1 oclock and 7 oclock instead of straight up and down or straight across.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:38 AM   #21
wytex
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I'm lost at how heavy your points are. We shoot 125 gr points for everything, broadheads and field points on a 50 lb longbow and a 60 lb longbow with no issues. They have taken deer, antelope, elk and moose with great penetration.
Try some tapered shafts, 11/32 down to 5/16 at the nock end. They'll fly like darts too.
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