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'Official' 2014 Trapping Thread

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    #31
    BT - you are correct in that a trapping license is only required for the sale of the hide or any part of the furbearing animal, however, a hunting license is required of anyone regardless of age.

    From the trapping regulations pamphlet -

    RECREATIONAL HARVEST —
    •September 1-August 31
    •Furbearing animals taken as a result of recreational harvest may not be sold
    •No bag or possession limit

    Only a hunting license is required for the taking of furbearing animals or predators. No furbearers may be sold (their fur or any part of the species) unless a trapping license is obtained.

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      #32
      Originally posted by Drycreek3189 View Post
      File a small notch on the end of the dog. When you set your trap, reach UNDER one jaw, put enough pressure on the pan that the latch clicks into this notch. Now the trap is really a " hair trigger " . You will hear and feel this click. Your pan should be level now. Hope this makes sense.
      Setting any trap with a hair trigger will only have the trap go off before the animal has enough pressure on the pan to make a good catch across the pad of the foot and more often than not, cause the species to remember and begin digging at sets from what has happened in the past. I gov't trapped for a few years and that was one thing as a novice before being employed by them that I was doing wrong. Having your traps set where the pan sits level and will fire with at least 4 lbs of pressure and give all at once is what you want to be effective. I sure don't want for you to think I'm preaching or trying to say someone else is wrong, but want to give some recommendations on what is the best method to effectively catch and hold furbearers and predators instead of pinching toes and making them smarter or trap-wise.

      One of the best things to do would be to have a get-together on trapping and show one another what you have done and different sets to make, not just Dog Proof traps, but foot holds as well and Conibears also. Just need a location to have it.

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        #33
        Originally posted by rtp View Post
        Now that is funny. I have a feeling you will catch him though and have the last laugh.
        That coyote now knows to avoid that hole since it has seen something else caught and remember the smells associated with the trap.

        Best to find a new location, new trap (dyed and set properly) and use a different lure. Sometimes the smaller amount of lure or bait is all that is needed as opposed to a big splash or glob.

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          #34
          Originally posted by ground level View Post
          One of the best things to do would be to have a get-together on trapping and show one another what you have done and different sets to make, not just Dog Proof traps, but foot holds as well and Conibears also. Just need a location to have it.

          I would love to have something like this happen!

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            #35
            I've got a question for the experienced trappers here. I have 6 Dukes DP traps that we're setting tonight.
            What should I look for in terms of places to set them? I plan on setting by my 2 feeders and another near a wet weather creek but is there anything specific to aim for?

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              #36
              Originally posted by ground level View Post
              Setting any trap with a hair trigger will only have the trap go off before the animal has enough pressure on the pan to make a good catch across the pad of the foot and more often than not, cause the species to remember and begin digging at sets from what has happened in the past. I gov't trapped for a few years and that was one thing as a novice before being employed by them that I was doing wrong. Having your traps set where the pan sits level and will fire with at least 4 lbs of pressure and give all at once is what you want to be effective. I sure don't want for you to think I'm preaching or trying to say someone else is wrong, but want to give some recommendations on what is the best method to effectively catch and hold furbearers and predators instead of pinching toes and making them smarter or trap-wise.

              One of the best things to do would be to have a get-together on trapping and show one another what you have done and different sets to make, not just Dog Proof traps, but foot holds as well and Conibears also. Just need a location to have it.
              'Nanza anyone? Team Foothold...

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by TexasLongball View Post
                I've got a question for the experienced trappers here. I have 6 Dukes DP traps that we're setting tonight.
                What should I look for in terms of places to set them? I plan on setting by my 2 feeders and another near a wet weather creek but is there anything specific to aim for?
                With as cold as it has been but with warm-up, when setting near water, look for fresh coon tracks and signs. Good signs will show more than one set of tracks and the area should be covered with tracks of various size. Finding a toilet spot (coons will use the same location each night) and finding one will have you catching them regularly. If you find a good location, just don't set one trap, if the spot is good and worth one trap, it's worth 3-4 gang setting to catch an entire family group or group of males looking to breed females since we are on the verge of their breeding season.

                Secure your traps extremely well with good tie wire/baling wire and double strand twist it for extra strength.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by Rat View Post
                  'Nanza anyone? Team Foothold...
                  That would work for me since I'm an hour and half away and can stay with my nephew unless he's spring breaking and offshore fishing. Still will come and do some sets, traps and even need to sell a bunch (got too many when I longlined trapped) and need to reduce my lot.

                  Let's keep in touch on this one.

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                    #39
                    Dukes work for me--bought two to try, and last night was first night. Other one wasn't bothered. Might have to order a couple more and run them all summer.

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                      #40
                      Does that coon have one eye?

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                        #41
                        Had two, then one caught a .22LR and now has 1.

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by courtatlawjudge View Post
                          I'm no expert but you catch more coon with just marshmellows. Fish oil, catfood, sardines, etc you will catch possums and skunks to, but not with marshmellows. 1 skunk is enough to get your attention
                          This is why I use the banana flavored moon pies. I have never caught anything other than a coon using them as bait.

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                            #43
                            The DP traps have a short stake on the end. Do y'all push it in the ground or just leave the trap laying down loose with the chain staked down?

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by ottert View Post
                              The DP traps have a short stake on the end. Do y'all push it in the ground or just leave the trap laying down loose with the chain staked down?
                              Stake them in at a 45* angle.

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                                #45
                                Thanks.
                                Now, how do you set the coilspring traps without 3 hands?

                                Yea, we need to have a get-together.

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