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Old 10-07-2014, 01:55 PM   #1
caughtandhobble
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Default Tuning Made Easy

I posted this on another sire and thought this may help somebody over here. Please feel free to add any tips or suggestions that may help someone down the road. I will try to answer any questions that may come up, if I don't have answer one of the pros will hook you up.

-Start off with the bow at mid range recommended brace height.

-Check on 3 Rivers or Stu's arrow spine calculator for a starting point. Both are the same, and if fed the correct information they will be very close.

-Set nocking point higher than needed and tune for up and down arrow flight first using bare shaft tuning or paper tuning. If using bare shaft tuning, the bare shaft results must be compared to the fletched shaft (Adcock's Tuning). The Adcock tuning can be found at A&H web site under tuning. If your bare shaft hits below the fletched arrows the string nock needs to be lowered, if high raise nock point.

-Always use two string nock points. I like to tie on my string nocks, use a material that is a least the same size as your serving material. The same size or larger nock material will prevent your serving from spreading and causing damage to your string.

-After your up and down is set, it's time to fine tune your dynamic spine. Once again using Adcock's tuning... Right hand shooters, a weak spine will be shown by the bare shaft hitting to the right of the fletched arrow and a stiff spine will hit to the left of the fletched arrow. Shoot several groups to make sure your results are consistent.

-For a slightly stiff spine you can increase your point weight or increase your brace height (among other things).

-For a slightly weak spine you can decrease your point weight or decrease your brace height. For a weak dynamic spine you can also add an extra set of string silencers to your string. You can also add to the side plate (among other things).

-After bare shaft tuned I will weigh the field points and broadheads to make certain they are the same. I have always found that broadheads fly perfect after the bare shaft or paper tuning has been done correctly as long as the weigh the same (no matter how big).

-For wood arrows I do the same thing, except I use broadheads in the place of bare shafts. A wood bare shaft can and will break fairly easily.

Good luck and have fun with it. I have found that a perfectly tuned bow is far more forgiving. I personally hunt and target shoot with the same arrows. Personally I have found that ~10gpp and ~15% FOC works best for me. Good Luck!!!
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Old 10-07-2014, 02:25 PM   #2
moreammo
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Nicely written Ben!

Thanks!
Jon
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:33 PM   #3
Draco
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That was a very good job. One little thing though. When you get close to spine, with some bows, you will hit in linebut the back of the arrow will be out of line. I just watch for it but the paper will show it better.
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Old 10-07-2014, 10:21 PM   #4
LeanMachine
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I'm a big fan of bare shaft tuning
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Old 10-07-2014, 10:36 PM   #5
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Very good info. the only thing I would add is to make sure when shooting bare shafts, do not cant your bow, keep it completely vertical.


Jeff
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:22 PM   #6
caughtandhobble
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Jeff,
Could you add to that please sir. I only ask because I have never heard that. I believe that one can never know too much about tuning. That's what I love about traditional archery, it's a never ending puzzle.
Thanks,
Ben
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Old 10-08-2014, 11:13 PM   #7
Loreva13
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Nicely written!
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:52 PM   #8
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Great info!
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:33 PM   #9
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.
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Old 11-07-2014, 08:10 PM   #10
Tracker0721
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Didn't know the broadhead thing! That'll help tomorrow.
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Old 11-07-2014, 10:40 PM   #11
little john
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Had a chance to read benny very well written cant wait to try to properly tune my arrows
P.s. that longbow is a shooter
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Old 11-08-2014, 04:43 AM   #12
caughtandhobble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little john View Post
Had a chance to read benny very well written cant wait to try to properly tune my arrows
P.s. that longbow is a shooter
Thanks John... You're type of fellow that will do very well by learning to tune your setup. Once an archer has consistent form and a well tuned bow it's all downhill from there. Keep up the good work my friend, Chunky has taught you well.
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:50 AM   #13
little john
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Thank you chunky is a great teacher and very passionate about the art that is trad cant wait to get you two at the same campfireName:  20140925_182021.jpg
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Old 11-09-2014, 10:08 PM   #14
little john
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And that's with my ugly sticks lol
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:50 PM   #15
caughtandhobble
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TTT for Destry
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caughtandhobble View Post
TTT for Destry


Thank you!
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:24 PM   #17
JW
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Tagged.
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:26 PM   #18
AJMag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caughtandhobble View Post

-For a slightly stiff spine you can increase your point weight or increase your brace height (among other things).

-For a slightly weak spine you can decrease your point weight or decrease your brace height.
Hey Ben, I remember reading this way back when, but these caught my eye. I thought they were backwards, meaning a heavier point weight would weaken the spine and vis versa....?
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:08 PM   #19
caughtandhobble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJMag View Post
Hey Ben, I remember reading this way back when, but these caught my eye. I thought they were backwards, meaning a heavier point weight would weaken the spine and vis versa....?
Brother Andy, I think we are saying the same thing.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:14 PM   #20
AJMag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caughtandhobble View Post
Brother Andy, I think we are saying the same thing.
Maybe so. I have not slept in about 36 hours so i shouldn't even be trying to contemplate anything.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:55 PM   #21
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Yeah i thought you were saying to achieve a stiff spine, increase point weight. I'm going to bed for a few days now before i confuse myself on where my bed is!
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:25 PM   #22
JTBean
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Nice write up. I'm just getting started with my first re-curve.
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:45 PM   #23
jerp
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Good info and simply explained. A mistake I made early on was trying to tune arrows before my form was sufficiently consistent. The Adcock method calls for bareshaft tuning from 20 yards. At that stage of my trad career, from 20 yards I couldn't shoot anything even remotely resembling the "groups" necessary to discern a pattern. I gave up on tuning and just worked on developing repeatable form. After a few months I went back and tried again and those tuning methods worked well.
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Old 05-13-2016, 05:26 PM   #24
JTBean
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That sounds like were I am at now. Starting to get cosistent but I need more practice.
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:03 PM   #25
JTBean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerp View Post
Good info and simply explained. A mistake I made early on was trying to tune arrows before my form was sufficiently consistent. The Adcock method calls for bareshaft tuning from 20 yards. At that stage of my trad career, from 20 yards I couldn't shoot anything even remotely resembling the "groups" necessary to discern a pattern. I gave up on tuning and just worked on developing repeatable form. After a few months I went back and tried again and those tuning methods worked well.
I'm sure you just saved ma lot of wasted time and frustration.
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:39 AM   #26
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Very good info! I use the Ole Adcock tuning method.
Thanks for sharing Ben


Corey
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