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Old 05-19-2020, 02:35 AM   #1
ChiefWhackABuck
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Default Halon 6 tuning issues.

Good day all, I've had some issues tuning broadheads with my Halon 6 and it's to the point that I'm rightly fed up with it. I shoot 60lbs at 28", and have tried retuning and shooting Easton lightspeed (400spine, 27inches with 125grains up front) as well as zombieslayers (350spine, 30inches with 125 up front) and Easton fmj's (400spine 29inches with 125 up front). I've had it tuned at the shop with each arrow setup and every one of them results in planing broadheads. I shoot magnus black Hornets out of my bow and they fly with my points out to 80 shooting the same arrow setups out of my other bow (an old prime alloy, 60lbs at 28"), but it seems that whatever I try isn't working with the old Mathews. It sucks cause I like this bow and how it shoots (I can group in a paper plate at 120, which is as far as my pin will go) but I just can't get the broadheads to fly. Any pointers or similar experiences would be much appreciated.

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Old 05-19-2020, 08:13 AM   #2
pigsticker64
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it could be many things causing your problem. first, could be a simple as your hand placement on your grip .
Have you paper tuned it with any of the arrow set ups ?
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Old 05-19-2020, 10:33 AM   #3
ChiefWhackABuck
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Originally Posted by pigsticker64 View Post
it could be many things causing your problem. first, could be a simple as your hand placement on your grip .
Have you paper tuned it with any of the arrow set ups ?
Yes. I took it to a pro shop and had it paper tuned with each of the different arrow setups before trying to shoot broadheads with em and still no go. As for grip, it could be that. The bow cants slightly right in my hand at full draw (it is consistent in that and paper tunes regardless though).

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Old 05-19-2020, 10:42 AM   #4
Tjciranni
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I was having the same issue with mine shooting the grim reaper ss white tail. i had to switch to a fixed blade and they started flying right.
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Old 05-19-2020, 10:50 AM   #5
JB_Archery
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Have you spin tested your broadheads on your arrows to make sure there isn't any wobble and they spin true?

Also I'm a firm believer in a 300 spine for broadhead tuning... you may not get a dead on paper tune but my broadheads have always flew dead on. Or you potentially may have to shim the cams to help fix any deficiencies in your shooting. I have shot a bow for 18 years plus and once bows started crossing the 330 FPS mark occasionally I have to shim the cams to help my broadheads tune.

These are just a few things I have done over the years.. good luck sir!
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Old 05-19-2020, 11:43 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by JB_Archery View Post
Have you spin tested your broadheads on your arrows to make sure there isn't any wobble and they spin true?

Also I'm a firm believer in a 300 spine for broadhead tuning... you may not get a dead on paper tune but my broadheads have always flew dead on. Or you potentially may have to shim the cams to help fix any deficiencies in your shooting. I have shot a bow for 18 years plus and once bows started crossing the 330 FPS mark occasionally I have to shim the cams to help my broadheads tune.

These are just a few things I have done over the years.. good luck sir!
Much appreciated! And yes I've squared my arrows and spin tested broadheads to make sure all was kosher and it checked off. The H6 is definitely the fastest bow I've shot, and I think shimming may be what I need to do. I'll mark that down on my list of things to try.

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Old 05-19-2020, 12:11 PM   #7
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1 bare shaft paper tune
2 walk back tune
3 make sure you have enough fletching
4 sight in with broadheads

Part of your tuning may show cam lean, I believe Mathews deals with this with shims as mentioned
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:25 PM   #8
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you are not flying out straight. From 30 yards or so shoot the field point. mark the position and put the BH on the same arrow. Fire away and then adjust the rest to walk the BH to where the FP is hitting. Make sure your knock height is good first.
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Old 05-19-2020, 02:33 PM   #9
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you are not flying out straight. From 30 yards or so shoot the field point. mark the position and put the BH on the same arrow. Fire away and then adjust the rest to walk the BH to where the FP is hitting. Make sure your knock height is good first.
if you are not bare shaft tuning then you may not see a little tail kick but none the less dynamic tuning is always best. If you are dialed in you will be able to shoot your broadhead without fletching at some distance....really depends on the bow. I can dial my Chill X and drill it with broadheads and no fletching at 40. There are naysayers who call BS but I have a target at work and am just south of you some come down and we can get your bow dialed in.
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Old 05-19-2020, 02:35 PM   #10
Easttxbowman
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If its planing to the right or left you may can adjust it out with your rest in tiny increments. If not, ill be you need to mess with your tophats.
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Old 05-19-2020, 02:37 PM   #11
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I'd say ditch the flimsy 400 spine to start with and go to a 300 spine and bare shaft tune.
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Old 05-19-2020, 03:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I'd say ditch the flimsy 400 spine to start with and go to a 300 spine and bare shaft tune.
agree here 100%. the arrow will always flex upon release and the broadhead has a big "sail" area so minimizing this flexing is key.
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Old 05-19-2020, 03:46 PM   #13
ChiefWhackABuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom View Post
agree here 100%. the arrow will always flex upon release and the broadhead has a big "sail" area so minimizing this flexing is key.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckologist View Post
I'd say ditch the flimsy 400 spine to start with and go to a 300 spine and bare shaft tune.
I agree I had them for my previous bow and just had them laying around. Only thing was it planed just the same with 350s

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Old 05-19-2020, 03:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom View Post
if you are not bare shaft tuning then you may not see a little tail kick but none the less dynamic tuning is always best. If you are dialed in you will be able to shoot your broadhead without fletching at some distance....really depends on the bow. I can dial my Chill X and drill it with broadheads and no fletching at 40. There are naysayers who call BS but I have a target at work and am just south of you some come down and we can get your bow dialed in.
I may have to take you up on that. I'm in Houston today and gonna be grinding pigs tomorrow, but after that I'm free

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Old 05-19-2020, 04:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easttxbowman View Post
If its planing to the right or left you may can adjust it out with your rest in tiny increments. If not, ill be you need to mess with your tophats.
May need to be the top hats. I tried the rest to no avail. If that's the case I'll need to hit an archery shop since I cant fit a bow press in my tiny apartment

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Old 05-19-2020, 08:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ChiefWhackABuck View Post
I may have to take you up on that. I'm in Houston today and gonna be grinding pigs tomorrow, but after that I'm free

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OK Cool. get your top hats dialed in at Texas Archery. If they are off it will be easy from there once they are dialed in!

Last edited by Tom; 05-19-2020 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 05-19-2020, 08:27 PM   #17
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I agree with going 300 spine especially with the 125 grain broad heads.
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Old 05-19-2020, 08:46 PM   #18
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Arrow is to week, I shoot a 300 spine At 60 pounds with 200 grains up front with no problems. You need helical fletching also.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:49 PM   #19
ChiefWhackABuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom View Post
OK Cool. get your top hats dialed in at Texas Archery. If they are off it will be easy from there once they are dialed in!
Sounds good to me. I'll PM you once I manage to get all that taken care of

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Old 05-19-2020, 09:50 PM   #20
ChiefWhackABuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmiles84 View Post
I agree with going 300 spine especially with the 125 grain broad heads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by clffrdfdge View Post
Arrow is to week, I shoot a 300 spine At 60 pounds with 200 grains up front with no problems. You need helical fletching also.
Looks like I may also be arrow shopping . Anyone wanna trade for some flappers?

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Old 05-20-2020, 06:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clffrdfdge View Post
You need helical fletching also.
You don't need that if the bow is bare shaft tuned
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:12 PM   #22
ChiefWhackABuck
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Got a new set of stiffer arrows at Saddle river today to get the bow tuned with. Needless to say not happy with that place and won't be back there again. I'll drive the extra 45 minutes to Tx archery next time.

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Old 05-26-2020, 03:20 PM   #23
SETX_Insanity
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Cutting that 350 spine down a couple inches may help stiffen it up also
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Old 05-26-2020, 04:10 PM   #24
ChiefWhackABuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SETX_Insanity View Post
Cutting that 350 spine down a couple inches may help stiffen it up also
It did. I got some outlaws in 350 with a 50gr brass insert and 125g up front at 28.5 ctc. Got one of my arrows through paper and just got done nock tuning the rest to get them to paper tune as well (aside from one that lost the insert in a target). Once the weather clears up later this week I'm gonna throw some broadheads on them and see how they fly

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