2 quick questions

[Warwagon]

1) Is there any difference between using a 125grn BH with a 50rn insert vs. using 175grn. BH? I'm not sure if I like the 175's and was gonna add an insert to my 125's and keep on rocking. Anybody see any problems with that? Of course I'm gonna shoot em and make sure everything is good to go, just getting some opinions.

2) I'm using double tie on nock points and I'm confident that I'm tying them correctly. The problem is, my nock points keep spreading further and further apart. Usually I dab a drop of super glue on them but this is a fairly new string and I'm letting it stretch a bit before I glue them. Just seems odd that they keep spreading. Maybe I'm not tying them as good as I thought!! Any thoughts??


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[jerp]

1) no difference that I know of

2) How do you tie your nocks? Do use use a nail knot so it will twist up and down or do you use alternating overhand knots? The overhand knots are less likely to move but if your string is still stretching you will have to retie them a few times.

[DRT]

Well my 75 grain inserts are about an inch long and are a slip fit in the shaft. I could be wrong but wouldn't that stiffen that inch of shaft affecting overall shaft spine? After all adding or removing shaft affects it.

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[Warwagon]

I'm using the nail knot


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[DRT]

I use a double overhand knots.

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[Phillip Fields]

1. There could be a difference. A 50 grain insert plus 125 gr broadhead equal 175 gr. I'm assuming you would have an insert to screw the 175 gr broadhead into, since a typical aluminum insert weighs 12-15 grains this equals 187-190 grains.

[Bisch]

2 quick questions

I also use opposite overhand knots. Nail knot works great too. If they are moving, it is most likely that you are not tying them tight enough.

I never glue mine, and never have them move on their own.

As far as the weight being all in the broadhead or split in insert and head goes, it should not mean a hill of beans difference (assuming both end weights are the same) unless your tune is not quite as optimum as it should be.

Bisch


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[CRM_95]

Just something you may try...I read where several people do this so I tried it and it's working form me. Just use dental floss for tying on your nocking points. It seems to stay in place pretty well and I don't glue it. If you don't like it it's easy to take off.

[Warwagon]

Thanks fellas


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[Featherflinger]

I am extremely particular about my arrows and tune them to the close max of being too stiff. I bare shaft them so the bare shafts shoot exactly the same as my fletched arrows so if the feathers ever get wet I know they will shoot exactly the same as if they were dry. The only problem is if I short draw or don’t follow through correctly my arrow kicks to the left a little. I shoot 225 up front. 50 grain inserts with 175 grain points. I have noticed if I use 100 grain inserts and 125 grain points they are slightly less forgiving. I guess the weight plus the extended length out front makes more of a difference than the weight itself. But as long as you aren’t pushing the limits like I am you are probably ok.

[60 Deluxe]

On the head weight, there would be a little difference. Add the weight of the insert and the broadhead to get total weight. If you total 175 with the insert and broadhead now then change to a 175 grain head you will be heavier by the weight of the new insert. Probably around 185 to 190 total weight depending on the insert used.

[DRT]

My arrows are calculated with the standard inserts. My insert weights screw into the back of my inserts so there is no "extra" calculation to worry about.

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