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Paper Vs. bare shaft tuning.

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    Paper Vs. bare shaft tuning.

    Where do you draw the line. I’ve got two different arrows making decent holes in paper. Bare shafts with both kick right. Keep tweaking or run with it? And where should I make changes to get the bare shafts lining up and nice holes in paper?





    -------------------------------
    Violence never settles anything
    -Genghis Kahn

    #2
    I need to learn this too, so I'm in to learn.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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      #3
      bare shaft is the best. but not all people can bareshaft tune. form is critical with bare shaft.

      on the paper tune shots how far where you from paper

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        #4
        It’s a pretty polarizing topic but I personally prefer bare shafting myself. I have found; 100% of the time, if you get a bare shaft flying with a fletched arrow at a minimum of 20 yds with the same entry that you can put any broadhead you want on and roll with it pretty much. A lot of folks get similar results shooting through paper, I just feel the completely uncorrected shaft is a little more telling.... at least for me.

        Both are elevated tuning techniques and things like facial pressure and a torque free/neutral grip must be mastered first before diving into either. Otherwise, false readings will immediately ensue.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          #5
          your paper tune is still off

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            #6
            Originally posted by enewman View Post
            your paper tune is still off


            Slightly but I’m making headway. The FMJ is hitting better than the Victory. Shooting paper at about 7 yds.


            -------------------------------
            Violence never settles anything
            -Genghis Kahn

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              #7
              You cannot go by the way an arrow ends up in a foam target. In the pic you seem to say that the shaft on the left kicks nock right, but foam targets like the one in the pic will give you false readings almost everytime.

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                #8
                Correct on mudslinger and enewman post.

                If your paper ain’t perfect there’s no need to even try bare shaft. (I find it no need to begin with).... but I guess there’s more than 1 way to skin a cat. Some just take a long approach to getting the same result.
                Last edited by Low Fence; 03-25-2018, 09:33 AM.

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                  #9
                  Getting my arrows to hit well through paper is making more and more sense. I am at the point that minor movements could improve the holes. I also understand that bare shaft tuning is important. The way the bare shafts are hitting in the foam target are consistent. I have also seen the same result with the bare shaft out at Rat's house when we went through cam timing, peep and nock.
                  I also understand that bare shafts will show form issues. I am no Olympic archer but my form is above average.
                  So where to start with bare shafts? I have gotten them to hit parallel with the fletched but the rest movements needed run my site out of left adjustment and screws up the paper tune.
                  I can always head back out to Rat's casa to work out these issues but I like to tinker and try to figure this stuff out on my own.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Stoof View Post
                    Getting my arrows to hit well through paper is making more and more sense. I am at the point that minor movements could improve the holes. I also understand that bare shaft tuning is important. The way the bare shafts are hitting in the foam target are consistent. I have also seen the same result with the bare shaft out at Rat's house when we went through cam timing, peep and nock.
                    I also understand that bare shafts will show form issues. I am no Olympic archer but my form is above average.
                    So where to start with bare shafts? I have gotten them to hit parallel with the fletched but the rest movements needed run my site out of left adjustment and screws up the paper tune.
                    I can always head back out to Rat's casa to work out these issues but I like to tinker and try to figure this stuff out on my own.
                    there are things that needs to be done before bareshaft tuning. if all your shafts are bare then you need to shoot all of them around 10 ft through paper look at the tears of each one. rotate the nocks till all have the same tear and reaction. this is important or you can chase your tail.

                    then set up your bow and start tuning. now this is not how i tune but it is an easy way of doing it

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                      #11
                      You are literally chasing your tail.
                      You need to get back on your feet (literally) before you get to this level of tuning; I am willing to bet that you can't be consistent enough from shot to shot with a broken leg to make any headway in tuning right now, not at this level anyway.

                      Once you can get the stance right we will be able to yoke tune that bow to the Nth degree. This will bring everything into alignment and will show good bareshaft and good paper.

                      You need to heal Brutha, then we can get you where you need to be.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by enewman View Post
                        your paper tune is still off
                        Get your paper PERFECT before you do anything else.

                        When bare shaft tuning your target needs to be of uniform density, and no "tracks" from other arrows for it to follow. I prefer sand for this.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by enewman View Post
                          there are things that needs to be done before bareshaft tuning. if all your shafts are bare then you need to shoot all of them around 10 ft through paper look at the tears of each one. rotate the nocks till all have the same tear and reaction. this is important or you can chase your tail.

                          then set up your bow and start tuning. now this is not how i tune but it is an easy way of doing it
                          Why 10ft? Why not 3', 5', 7', 9', 11' or 16.5'?

                          Also, when you're done bare shaft tuning, fletch your arrows and screw on a broad head and go hunt. No further adjustments necessary?
                          Last edited by Traildust; 03-26-2018, 11:17 AM.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Outbreaker View Post
                            Get your paper PERFECT before you do anything else.

                            When bare shaft tuning your target needs to be of uniform density, and no "tracks" from other arrows for it to follow. I prefer sand for this.
                            At what distance/distances should one achieve this perfect paper tear?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Rat View Post
                              You are literally chasing your tail.
                              You need to get back on your feet (literally) before you get to this level of tuning; I am willing to bet that you can't be consistent enough from shot to shot with a broken leg to make any headway in tuning right now, not at this level anyway.

                              Once you can get the stance right we will be able to yoke tune that bow to the Nth degree. This will bring everything into alignment and will show good bareshaft and good paper.

                              You need to heal Brutha, then we can get you where you need to be.
                              I hear ya man. I can finally put equal pressure on both legs again and walk without the crutches. But the boredom the injury creates makes more time to tinker. Maybe I should stick to fletching arrows and practice for now.
                              I will be back out soon.

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