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Old 01-17-2017, 08:11 PM   #1
RickBarbee
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I really like my little Harbor Freight cut off saw, but I got tired of having to mark each arrow individually to cut them.

Built me a slide rule, mounted the saw onto it, and calibrated the ruler to the saw.

Works great.

Rick
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:36 PM   #2
DRT
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Harbor Freight was out. I ordered one on Amazon. Supposed to be here Thursday. That's a neat idea.

Gary
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:41 PM   #3
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Good job Rick

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Old 01-17-2017, 08:41 PM   #4
skooter
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What kind of blade do you have on that saw? I used one for a while with the blade that came with it. I'm not sure if the blade got dull or what, but it was leaving some frayed carbon fibers around the cut end, so I quit using it.

skooter
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:46 PM   #5
RickBarbee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skooter View Post
What kind of blade do you have on that saw? I used one for a while with the blade that came with it. I'm not sure if the blade got dull or what, but it was leaving some frayed carbon fibers around the cut end, so I quit using it.

skooter
I use the blade that came with the saw, and turn it around backwards.
That keeps the teeth of the blade from grabbing, and makes a real clean cut as long as you don't force it.

Rick
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:57 PM   #6
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Thanks. I'll have to get a fresh blade and try it like that. I really like the idea of doing my own work on everything that I can.

skooter
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:59 PM   #7
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That'll work!

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Old 01-17-2017, 09:03 PM   #8
RickBarbee
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I built the slide rule, and mount for the saw using scrap pieces of 1" X 2" board.
It was easy, and didn't take maybe 30 minutes tops.

It was harder, and took longer to calibrate & mark the ruler to the saw.

Rick
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:12 PM   #9
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Name:  image.jpg
Views: 520
Size:  60.5 KB I did about the same thing. Added a squaring tool also.
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:27 PM   #10
Bisch
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critter69, do you move the nail to different hole to change length, and the nock goes on the nail when you saw?

Bisch
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:39 PM   #11
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Tagged
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:42 PM   #12
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I found it, 2" mini bench saw...
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Old 01-18-2017, 12:44 AM   #13
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Nice
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Old 01-18-2017, 07:26 PM   #14
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I bought one of those saws from HF still have it but don't use it anymore. I changed out the blade and put one of my die grinder cutoff blades on it and it was a world of difference in the quality of cut. One thing I found when you are cutting an arrow, is to spin the arrow slowly while cutting. That should eliminate all fraying with carbon arrows.
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Old 01-18-2017, 07:39 PM   #15
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Here's a pic or two of the cutoff wheel I use. The best part about this cutoff wheel is it mounted on my HF saw with NO modification. Just thought of something after I posted, I believe I remember not being able to use the blade guard after mounting the wheel. just an FYI
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Old 01-18-2017, 07:42 PM   #16
Dry Bones
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Keep it simple. The cut off saw looks like a great idea, I still use a small hacksaw to cut each arrow. Mark them well, and not much pressure keeps the line smooth.
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Old 01-18-2017, 07:49 PM   #17
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I don't do enough that I can't measure each arrow but if I had the space I do the slide rule thing.
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:23 PM   #18
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Gee whizz, and I've been using an Apple Arrow saw all these years...
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Gee whizz, and I've been using an Apple Arrow saw all these years...

That's what I moved to, that's why I don't use the HF saw anymore.
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:26 PM   #20
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I've used a hacksaw on many occasions. But this trad thing you have to cut to a length to get the spine right. May take a couple arrows to work through it. Want to have something to make it quicker and easier.
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:38 PM   #21
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HA! Did mine like that when I set it up years ago Rick! Would say the ol "great minds think alike..." but, dont want to cut ya down like that! Only difference is my "nock block" does the sliding, not the saw. But, still has the scale, etc. My nock block has a tapered hole for the nock end, it slides along a piece of angle iron, and tightens down via a "wing-bolt". Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:50 PM   #22
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Nice
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:45 PM   #23
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Fireag bought a legit true arrow saw and is lurking around here. He said he may have one he's going to send me.
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Old 01-19-2017, 03:34 AM   #24
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I have kept kicking around the idea of making one like yours Rick. I made one a while back with a dremel.

http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...d.php?t=551076

But it requires measuring, marking, and making multiple passes.

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Old 01-19-2017, 09:53 AM   #25
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Cabela's sells the blades specifically for carbon arrows.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:52 AM   #26
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I need to get one of these built. I've been using a tubing cutter for the past half year or so.


Richard.
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Old 01-19-2017, 02:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam4613 View Post
Cabela's sells the blades specifically for carbon arrows.
For the mini chop saw?
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Old 01-19-2017, 05:10 PM   #28
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Mine came today.

Gary
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Old 01-23-2017, 05:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat View Post
For the mini chop saw?
It is for the commercial brand, but it fits the HF saw.
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:45 PM   #30
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My saw cuts tile too. The diamond blade works very good on carbons.
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Old 01-27-2017, 09:12 PM   #31
DRT
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I have composite blades with the right arbor but are too big in diameter. Guess I will go by Cabela's.

Gary
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Old 01-27-2017, 09:16 PM   #32
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I just cut 18 shafts using this saw with the original blade turned backward.
Not a single splintered fiber in the lot.

All you have to do is be patient, and don't crowd the blade.

Rick
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Old 01-27-2017, 09:38 PM   #33
critter69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bisch View Post
critter69, do you move the nail to different hole to change length, and the nock goes on the nail when you saw?

Bisch
It will work with the nail in the valley of the nock, but then you cant rotate the shaft. Or I take the nock off and the end of the shaft pushes against the nail and I can rotate it. And yes the nail moves for different lengths. Gold tip, its a half inch difference between the valley and the end of the shaft. I have the nail holes every half inch. Sorry it took so long, just seen this.

Last edited by critter69; 01-27-2017 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 01-27-2017, 09:39 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT View Post
I have composite blades with the right arbor but are too big in diameter. Guess I will go by Cabela's.

Gary
You can get composite blades from Big Jim bows.
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:01 PM   #35
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I had 3 out of 4 get splinters. Tried blade both ways. Have to rotate shafts.

Gary
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:34 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT View Post
Have to rotate shafts.

Gary
Yep. I should have mentioned that also.
A gentle rotation is a must.

I'm not saying, that a good cutoff wheel wouldn't be better, because it would.
What I am saying is - It isn't necessary as long as you go easy with the original blade.

Rick
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:39 AM   #37
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Yeah a good wheel would help but I was putting some together for this bow. Got it done and they are flying good so I'm gtg. I have a dozen or better I have to refit as well and some of them are more expensive arrows so I'm glad I'm learning on these cheap ones.

Gary
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Old 12-29-2017, 05:07 PM   #38
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Here's the one I put together. ..


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Old 01-02-2018, 05:30 PM   #39
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Them look good! I still have my easton from when i had my shop n it will last
me forever!!
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