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Old 08-14-2018, 06:58 PM   #1
PineyWoodsBow
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I have a cheap scope on a Remington 243. It doesnít have the dial knobs but the cheap click turn knobs. What is the preferred method for compensating for bullet drop. Do you justhold high approximately or do you actually dial it in. I am new to LR shooting so please forgive my ignorance


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Old 08-14-2018, 07:20 PM   #2
WTucker
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First, what are you considering long range? Most people set up for long range are going to be dialing shots or using their reticle for accurate hold overs. With a scope like you are talking about, I would probably just zero it for 200 yards and make shots to 300 without needing to holdover much.
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:33 PM   #3
westtexducks
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For true long range shooting and hunting your going to have to dial or have a reticle with holdovers and not the gimicky b&c things either. For 0-400 just holding over isn't to terrible though with a 100 yd zero if you know what your drop is.

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Old 08-14-2018, 07:36 PM   #4
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You could do several things but shooting 300 yards vs 1000 yards is very different. If shooting shorter and not wanting to change scopes I would do a hold over as if you are sitting there trying to dope in counting clicks while hunting will be disastrous as you will loose count quick with turrets and values you always know zero.


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Old 08-14-2018, 08:13 PM   #5
catslayer
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400 and in, just practice and hold overs will be fine. Asking for problems...243 is flat shooting. DONT DIAL IF YOU DONT HAVE LABELED TURRETS. Go out and work at every 50 yardage line, track shots and hold on a notepad. Put lean that, learn the wind...you can use box of box numbers for speed that range. Plug it into shooters calculator and get some ideas on wind drift.

If you want to stretch it farther... Say out to 600 (max range i think is really doable consistently first shot for most ppl) or just want to shoot on steel farther. Then Go buy a swfa 3-15, solid inexspensive scope. 2nd focal plane is fine. I would buy a zero stop shim set up,Google it you'll find it.

Sight in scope, and then start practicing... I don't really shoot inside 400 now except to zero or kill stuff. 600 is where I really start up. The verticles become the easy part. Wind is the great equalizer...
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:37 PM   #6
PineyWoodsBow
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Thanks thatís what I was wanting to know. Wonít be shooting anything over 300 with the 243. I will just hold over like suggested.

I want to get into LR shooting but I will save that for the 7Mag I have in mind


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Old 08-16-2018, 03:10 PM   #7
xman59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyWoodsBow View Post
Thanks thatís what I was wanting to know. Wonít be shooting anything over 300 with the 243. I will just hold over like suggested.

I want to get into LR shooting but I will save that for the 7Mag I have in mind


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in that case just zero at 200, shoot dead on at 300 and see what the drop really is,, then shoot at 100 , it wont be high enough to need to hold low,, but knowing is confidence out in the field,,,, f you take a 300 yard shot you will know what you need to hold over
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Old 08-16-2018, 04:16 PM   #8
ahlongslide
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I always dial elevation, spin drift, etc. The only thing I hold is wind
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Old 08-16-2018, 05:09 PM   #9
twosixteens
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I always dial elevation, spin drift, etc. The only thing I hold is wind
At what range do you start to dial spin drift?
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Old 08-16-2018, 05:30 PM   #10
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At what range do you start to dial spin drift?
Depends on the projectile and barrel twist. For example, I have a fast twist 308 that spins 2" to the right at 400yds. And 5" at 600yds. So I would suggest just always keeping it turned on in your ballistic calculator.
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Old 08-16-2018, 05:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahlongslide View Post
Depends on the projectile and barrel twist. For example, I have a fast twist 308 that spins 2" to the right at 400yds. And 5" at 600yds. So I would suggest just always keeping it turned on in your ballistic calculator.
You serious Clark?
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Old 08-16-2018, 06:45 PM   #12
Stick1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahlongslide View Post
Depends on the projectile and barrel twist. For example, I have a fast twist 308 that spins 2" to the right at 400yds. And 5" at 600yds. So I would suggest just always keeping it turned on in your ballistic calculator.
There has to be something else going on besides spin drift causing that much drift.
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Old 08-16-2018, 08:45 PM   #13
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Nope. It’s a really really fast twist. 1:7 lol. I built it so I could stabilize 240grSMK going really slow. Downside is that spin drift is crazy with supers.
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