DF Shafts wider than taper tool

[SwampRabbit]

I have not heard that anywhere, but if you are way off spine, they will fly sideways. And they fly sideways without a target point on them. You should never bareshaft tune with broadheads. That link that I posted said that a broadhead on a bare shaft will act like fletching on the wrong end and you can't tell where it will go! LOL

I have shot a fletched shaft without a point just because it came off in my target. It went sideways like crazy.

I'm going back to woods because I seem to shoot them better, enjoy building them, and I don't cry when I break a $2.00 shaft as opposed to an $8.00 shaft.

I really enjoy this board because everyone is willing to share their knowledge. I look forward to meeting more of you as I attend more shoots.

Todd

I am not talking about shooting without a point... that would be expensive and well... pointless

I am talking about bareshaft tuning which is FP fletched vs FP without fletch (bareshaft)

Broadhead tuning is fletched BH vs fletched FP.

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[twillgo]

I am not talking about shooting without a point... that would be expensive and well... pointless

I am talking about bareshaft tuning which is FP fletched vs FP without fletch (bareshaft)

Broadhead tuning is fletched BH vs fletched FP.

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What is this "FP" that you speak of? Sorry, not familiar with that acronym?

Field Point....duh....sorry.

[twillgo]

Yes. Agreed. Broadheads must be tuned on a fletched shaft.

[twillgo]

Adventures in bare shaft tuning

I'm not a wood guy... but I thought you weren't supposed to bareshaft wood arrows.

SwampRabbit,

Sorry to have doubted you! As my experience bares your statement out (pun intended!) It seems that bare wooden shafts behave very differently than aluminum or carbon shafts.

I bought two test packs of Douglas Fir shafts from surewoodshafts.com in spines from 40/45# to 65/70#, as I have four bows to test, and three more from my buddy Mike. In these two dozen arrows, there were 4 representatives of each spine, all groups weighing within 10 grains of each other.

Without fail, all of the shafts flew very badly and ended up showing weak spine in the examples that I shot. One was so sideways, that it broke in the target. I was shooting from 10 yards.

After that one, I'd had enough of that. I fletched the rest of them up and just shot them until I found the ones that hit where I looked.

Results:

Omega Imperial Longbow 45# @ 29in = 65/70#
Tradtech Trident 35# @ 28 in = 65/70#
Samick Journey 35# @ 28 in = 60/65#

Samick Sage 50# @ 28 in = 60/65#
Samick Sage 40# @ 28 in = 60/65#
Samick Sage 25# @ 28 in = 40/45#

Glad to have finally dialed arrows for all of these bows. All in all, I think they are very good shafts. Now, we will be able to purchase hunter grade arrows which are spined alike, but not weighed for $2.25 per shaft in bundles of 100.

Todd

[SwampRabbit]

Well, if anything... at least you only broke one!

One of these days I should try and make some up... if only so I can dye the wood green (I have a set of woods from a friend that I plan to use on a critter some day)

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[twillgo]

Well, if anything... at least you only broke one!

One of these days I should try and make some up... if only so I can dye the wood green (I have a set of woods from a friend that I plan to use on a critter some day)

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I used dyes on mine and I bought green, red, yellow, black, and light brown.

They work much better than regular store-bought stain and they dry quickly.

I made the mistake of trying to spray a clear finish on them. I about killed myself with fumes, and I was outside! Didn't work well at all....too thin or too thick. Got some minwax polyurethane to apply with a foam brush for the next arrow build out.

Todd

[caughtandhobble]

Sorry, I'm late to the discussion. You need to flex any wood shafts that you "bare shaft" tested. You likely broke more than 1, and it is a lot better to break a wood shaft in your hands than break into your hand or arm. I guarantee that you have compromised the integrity of the wood shaft by "bare shaft" testing.

Good luck my friend. I too hope to meet you at a shoot in the future.

[twillgo]

Sorry, I'm late to the discussion. You need to flex any wood shafts that you "bare shaft" tested. You likely broke more than 1, and it is a lot better to break a wood shaft in your hands than break into your hand or arm. I guarantee that you have compromised the integrity of the wood shaft by "bare shaft" testing.

Good luck my friend. I too hope to meet you at a shoot in the future.

Luckily, I realized this wasn't working well after shooting these a few times. I did find another shaft with a crack in it and it was discarded. I will certainly check the others by hand before shooting them again. Thanks for the admonition!

I'll be attending the Fredericksburg shoot. Hope to meet you there!

Todd

[caughtandhobble]

Luckily, I realized this wasn't working well after shooting these a few times. I did find another shaft with a crack in it and it was discarded. I will certainly check the others by hand before shooting them again. Thanks for the admonition!

I'll be attending the Fredericksburg shoot. Hope to meet you there!

Todd

I won't be making that shoot, a little too far for me.

Just for the record, you can bare shaft tune wood arrows if they are really close to the perfect spine for your bow. It is just bare shaft tuning woods is a little dangerous when they do hit the target sideways. You know what they say about getting wiser, yep I have broken a few woodies in my backyard.

I prefer broadhead tuning for woodies. Just weight your broadhead and make sure it weights the same as your field points. Use the arrow with the broadhead to make your corrections the exact same as you would for bare shat tuning. Have a great Day.

[twillgo]

I won't be making that shoot, a little too far for me.

Just for the record, you can bare shaft tune wood arrows if they are really close to the perfect spine for your bow. It is just bare shaft tuning woods is a little dangerous when they do hit the target sideways. You know what they say about getting wiser, yep I have broken a few woodies in my backyard.

I prefer broadhead tuning for woodies. Just weight your broadhead and make sure it weights the same as your field points. Use the arrow with the broadhead to make your corrections the exact same as you would for bare shat tuning. Have a great Day.

Caughtandhobble,

Thanks for the tips! Sorry you can't make it out to Fredericksburg.

For something outwardly so simple as sticks and a string, archery can quickly become very complicated and expensive! I've spent a mint already on this endeavor and I am finally getting to where it makes sense and I'm getting better in all aspects....arrow building and shooting. Addicted for sure.

Todd