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    Stabilizer question

    I bought a new reign 7 and seems like on every draw I start at 6 o clock and have to raise aim up to desired point. I have removed some weights but not sure it helped

    Thoughts??

    #2
    May mean that you need to add a weight to the back to counteract that. Here is a good video I found about it. Watched it not too long ago myself. https://youtu.be/DBdQRABcXw4

    Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk

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      #3
      May be different for you, but I’ve found that I could shoot as well with one of those little stubby stabs as I could with a B-Stinger. I saw no need to hang that weight on the front of my bow.

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        #4
        I raise aim on every shot. Just feels more natural to me and it also keeps me inline with the vitals. I start at the ground and follow the inside line of the leg up into the zone. I believe most say you should fall into your target area, but it’s never had an impact on any of my shots.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Drycreek3189 View Post
          May be different for you, but I’ve found that I could shoot as well with one of those little stubby stabs as I could with a B-Stinger. I saw no need to hang that weight on the front of my bow.
          It's all about your arms and the start weight of the bow. My Martin Max only weighs 3.9 lbs bare,and so the pin moves quite a bit at full draw. If I'm only shooting 20 yards, it's no big deal, but getting the weight (even just a tiny weight like an ounce or two) further from the bow makes it more stable. Once you get it stable (no shaking) in the front, weight in the back helps keep the bow from wanting to fall forward.

          Even with a 12" stabilizer in front and a 8" in back my bow weighs very little.

          The idea is that once at full draw the pin goes straight to the target and does not move at all. Some shooters naturally shoot like they are on diazapam (muscle nerve relaxer) but some of us are a bit shaky. A proper stabilizer will always make a bow more stable. Many people make them too heavy and not long enough though. The longer the stab is the lighter it can be.

          Start with one long enough to get just a couple inches past the riser, and then the back should be a couple inches shorter. If your pin drops it needs more weight in back or less in front, if you fight the pin rising up do the opposite. If neither happens you should be good!!

          Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk

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            #6
            Appreciate the feedback

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              #7
              Originally posted by antiparadigm View Post
              It's all about your arms and the start weight of the bow. My Martin Max only weighs 3.9 lbs bare,and so the pin moves quite a bit at full draw. If I'm only shooting 20 yards, it's no big deal, but getting the weight (even just a tiny weight like an ounce or two) further from the bow makes it more stable. Once you get it stable (no shaking) in the front, weight in the back helps keep the bow from wanting to fall forward.

              Even with a 12" stabilizer in front and a 8" in back my bow weighs very little.

              The idea is that once at full draw the pin goes straight to the target and does not move at all. Some shooters naturally shoot like they are on diazapam (muscle nerve relaxer) but some of us are a bit shaky. A proper stabilizer will always make a bow more stable. Many people make them too heavy and not long enough though. The longer the stab is the lighter it can be.

              Start with one long enough to get just a couple inches past the riser, and then the back should be a couple inches shorter. If your pin drops it needs more weight in back or less in front, if you fight the pin rising up do the opposite. If neither happens you should be good!!

              Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk
              So, I generally settle in a little low and move up, but I struggle to move up enough in some situations. When I am above the target, no problem. But, I hunt from the ground so I often have to aim higher where my pin naturally settles and I struggle with that.

              I have a small 4" apex, but I have also hunted with an 8" bee stinger. I didn't find any benefit to the bee stinger at my hunting ranges, so I took it off.

              Would adding a rear stabilizer help me start a little higher on the target?

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                #8
                Can I mount a stabilizer directly to this for a back bar?

                High quality machined aluminum construction Adjustable offset mount to attach side bar Extremely solid design to preserve rigidity Interlocking internal teeth for positive locking Eye bolt not included Specifications: Construction:  Aluminum Weight: 3.2 oz Dexterity: RH and LH Quick Disconnect: No Mounting Location: Fr

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by El General View Post
                  Can I mount a stabilizer directly to this for a back bar?

                  https://www.lancasterarchery.com/bee...-side-bar.html
                  I believe that will work fine. I'd use that bee stinger up front and the Apex in rear. The rear stabilizer will help that pin from dropping as much. Start with little to no weight and then add a little front and rear to help balance

                  Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by antiparadigm View Post
                    I believe that will work fine. I'd use that bee stinger up front and the Apex in rear. The rear stabilizer will help that pin from dropping as much. Start with little to no weight and then add a little front and rear to help balance

                    Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk
                    Thank you.

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                      #11
                      both rifle and bow i always come from above, let out my breath as i settle on the pin and touch the trigger before in hale.

                      But i am just carrying that over from rifle as i started with that

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