Carbons vs. aluminum

[AJ the TP Guru]

Ok, I just recently started shooting trad again after a decades long layoff.

Bought some 600 carbons (Warriors) with feathers, and when I get a clean release they seem to fly ok. Thing is, all my releases aren't clean, and those arrows seem to take off in all directions.

I don't remember that about the XX75s I used to shoot. I threw away my arrow straightener long ago, and really don't want to have to buy another one. Am I mis-remembering how alums fly vs. carbon?

[MEsquivel]

Welcome back!
To me 600 spine arrows seam too weak. That may or not be the case.
The fieldpoint may be too light as well.
What bow are you shooting? How many pounds? Whats your draw length?
That way someone with the same pounds and draw can tell you what they shoot out of their setups.
I use 500 spine on a recurve that is #47 at my 26" draw. 50gr insert and 125gr point. Arrows cut to 28".
On my other recurve (55@26) I use 400 spine with 100gr insert and 125gr point. Arrows cut to 28" too.

[AJ the TP Guru]

36# at 28" on a 70s era recurve. Not drawing much more than that. I've tried 85, 100, and 125 gr. field points, but at short distances, not much difference. Haven't yet gone past 25 yds. Actually, 500s with blazer vanes flew a little right.

Once again, they fly just fine so long as my release is smooth. But the wide divergence of the bad arrows is what is bothering me.

[MEsquivel]

36# at 28" on a 70s era recurve. Not drawing much more than that. I've tried 85, 100, and 125 gr. field points, but at short distances, not much difference. Haven't yet gone past 25 yds. Actually, 500s with blazer vanes flew a little right.

Once again, they fly just fine so long as my release is smooth. But the wide divergence of the bad arrows is what is bothering me.

Shooting blazer vanes off the shelf, now thats a different story. Rick Barbee here shoots vanes, I just dont mess with them. Its just a matter of tunning, but I've never done it. Too much contact on the riser for my taste.
Actually, at 36# you may not be that far off with the 600 spine. Maybe a 500 with a little more weight up front will give your arrow a better direction.
Have you tried shooting a bare shaft?

[AJ the TP Guru]

Not off the shelf- should've mentioned I'm shooting a Flipper II.

[SwampRabbit]

36# at 28" on a 70s era recurve. Not drawing much more than that. I've tried 85, 100, and 125 gr. field points, but at short distances, not much difference. Haven't yet gone past 25 yds. Actually, 500s with blazer vanes flew a little right.

Once again, they fly just fine so long as my release is smooth. But the wide divergence of the bad arrows is what is bothering me.

When I was shooting 40# @ 27", I was shooting 600 spine with 100gr heads. I guess we'd have to know how bad of a release you have and more importantly, how steady your bow arm is during the shot. Every now and again I get a pretty ugly flier and it usually is either a plucked string or my bow arm moves and kicks the back of the arrow.

Same thing would happen when I shot aluminums, no difference.

Since you are coming back from it from a long layoff, I'd use the bad flight as good feedback for your form. Don't focus on aiming. Just focus on the draw, the release, and follow-through. Just watch the arrow fly on it's way into your target and let the flight and feel be the measure of your success.

[SwampRabbit]

One other thing. The lower the poundage of the bow, the easier it is to notice bad releases. It is a lot easier to pluck the string on a light bow than a heavier one. The best release practice I get is from shooting my wife's 25lb bow or the cub scout bows. It is really easy to pluck them.

When I moved from 40# to 50#, I noticed less effect from plucking... however, I can catch myself plucking by where my release hand ends up after follow through.

[Wayne Meuir]

Try bare shafting. That should tell you if the arrows are spined right and if your nock point is too high or too low.

[BowBuddy]

Light poundage bows a very susceptible to release errors. Also I started canting my bow when shooting.

[AJ the TP Guru]

I was shooting the same poundage when I won a TFAA State Championship back in the dark ages (the word, "trad," hadn't been invented yet).

But as I said, XX75s were the arrow of choice, and of course today, there is also carbon. I like carbon, and that's what I started shooting when I bought my compound, and I still have no real desire to go back to aluminum.

Yeah, I'll agree that smoothness of release counts for a lot, and in that I've been shooting a release aid for almost 50 years now, I do understand that my finger release isn't where it needs to be. I was just wondering what others may've experienced with one vs. the other.

Thanks for the input.

[Bisch]

If your form is good, and your arrow tuned right, carbon or aluminum with work just the same. If either your form or the arrow is not right, you will have problems with whichever you choose.

Bisch