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    #31
    Originally posted by cmh2007 View Post
    Don't have time to type much but if you go to mudhole custom tackle YouTube page they have a video on spining a fishing rod
    Ok tried it with a 340 spine arrow. Found what I thought was the spot like on the video. The. Checked with the ram tester. Was about 20 degrees off. Now I can see it being more difficult being to 32 inches vs a fishing pole.

    Now my opinion so don't take this wrong. Again my opinion. This method for an arrow is just like compression testing. It's not that accurate. It's also a static test just like the other methods.

    Now if you do this method , one thing you have is a reference mark just like the others.

    Only true way is to shoot the arrow it's now a dynamic test.

    Have you marked your shafts this way. Need to do at least 6 but 12 would be better. And shoot them through paper to see if all or what percentage have the same tear and how many did you have to turn

    With the ram I'm about 80%. Flo I'm a little better but not a hole lot better.
    Again I some this up to its a static test.

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      #32
      I can't read these threads with out a bottle of aspirin.
      I have found a lot more problems with the nocks than the arrow. I shoot groups at 60yds. If an arrow isn't in the group I turn the nock, if it still isn't the group I I change nocks, if it still isn't in the group I cull that shaft. I am only concerned about the arrow hitting behind the pin.
      For hunting, I make sure all shafts with different broad heads hit the 10 ring at 70yds.

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        #33
        Originally posted by old killer View Post
        I can't read these threads with out a bottle of aspirin.
        I have found a lot more problems with the nocks than the arrow. I shoot groups at 60yds. If an arrow isn't in the group I turn the nock, if it still isn't the group I I change nocks, if it still isn't in the group I cull that shaft. I am only concerned about the arrow hitting behind the pin.
        For hunting, I make sure all shafts with different broad heads hit the 10 ring at 70yds.
        Best way I've found, works every time.

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          #34
          Originally posted by old killer View Post
          I can't read these threads with out a bottle of aspirin.
          I have found a lot more problems with the nocks than the arrow. I shoot groups at 60yds. If an arrow isn't in the group I turn the nock, if it still isn't the group I I change nocks, if it still isn't in the group I cull that shaft. I am only concerned about the arrow hitting behind the pin.
          For hunting, I make sure all shafts with different broad heads hit the 10 ring at 70yds.
          Haha. You would think by now when you see my name you go get the aleve before reading.

          Happy new year.

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            #35
            Originally posted by old killer View Post
            I can't read these threads with out a bottle of aspirin.
            I have found a lot more problems with the nocks than the arrow. I shoot groups at 60yds. If an arrow isn't in the group I turn the nock, if it still isn't the group I I change nocks, if it still isn't in the group I cull that shaft. I am only concerned about the arrow hitting behind the pin.
            For hunting, I make sure all shafts with different broad heads hit the 10 ring at 70yds.
            That's the thing that a lot of people over look are the nocks. I believe it's the most inconsistent part of the arrow and like you said a bad or warped nock can give you fits if your trying to broadhead tune

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              #36
              How do I get in touch with Muddyfuzzy? I'm new and can't PM or email here. looking to get a doz. arrows built. sorry guys not trying to crash your thread.

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                #37
                Got your PM Muddy but it won't let me reply

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by dphillips62 View Post
                  Got your PM Muddy but it won't let me reply

                  Call me at 713-483-four six four zero

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