We are looking at starting a small heard of goats on our new property and I wanted to see if any of you guys raise or sell them. I have been doing some research and it really looks like the Kiko breed of goat is the route I need to work towards. From what I read they are more parasite tolerant, lower maintenance, and are better mothers than the Boar breed. If you have any experience with that breed I would love to hear it.
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I raise Nubian ibex -
My wife sells Nigerian Dwarfs, and Pigmy goats.Comment
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My wife also raises Nigerian dwarf goats.Comment
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I don't raise any specific breed anymore. I've wasted a lot of money on registered Boars, but that paper doesn't mean anything to me. Mine are mostly crossbreeds, and are used to keep the pasture clean, not for show or resell often. I've had several Kiko cross does. Can't really say they have been better, or worse as mothers. I bought 2 (separate times and different sellers) young full blood Kiko bucklings. Both died from parasites, mostly my fault from lack of knowledge. I haven't had a breeder buck of any kind in a couple years. Thinking about getting a Kiko buck and trying them again.
The biggest mistake I made when I first started, was increasing the size of my herd too quickly. Get a few at first. Then after a year or so, get a few more. I started with 11. Before I knew it, I had 50. I only had a small part of my land fenced for them and they were down to dirt and stripping bark off the trees before I knew it. I've heard 10 goats per acre is ok, but I wouldn't go more than 3-4.
Neuter bucks that will not be used for breeding around 3 months old, or you'll have inbreeding. Separate young does from breeder bucks until they're over a year old. The young doe's growth will be stunted, and her offspring will most likely not be as healthy.
Your fence needs to be sturdy, and the mesh needs to be small to keep them from getting their head stuck (6x8 field fence is not a good idea for goats with horns). Goats also love to push on the fence to scratch, so an electric fence wire just below knee high will keep them off of it. A catch pen and feed bucket will be your best friends. I feed them in the catch pen, that way they don't get nervous when it's time to handle them.
Onion Creek Ranch website, used to be a good resource for everything goat health related. Haven't been on there in a while, so I don't know if it's still there or updated.
Sorry for the jumbled rambling, good luck.
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Brother, you are a wealth of knowledge! I will definitely keep all this heard earned information you are giving me tucked away for when it's time. Thanks you sir.Originally posted by Muskles View Post
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Take a bucket of water and sling it at your fence. If any water gets through, it ain’t goat-proof.Comment
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That ain't no lie.. if a goat can get in trouble it will . Those little backward pointing horns are perfect to hang in a fence when the goat thinks it needs to eat on the other side.. don't park anything of value in the pasture they will climb all over it..Originally posted by TexOddball View PostComment
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You're welcome.Originally posted by dpg481 View Post
I jumped in with both feet, thinking it would be easy. Having heard they would eat anything and were pretty maintenance free (that was bad info). Figured it would be cheaper than buying a tractor... I was wrong. I could have bought a couple nice brand new tractors and implements with what I've spent over the past 15ish years. Hard, expensive lesson learned.
A good livestock guard dog is also a really good investment. Great Pyrenees are good if you have several acres, but they like to roam. Anatolian shepherds are better for smaller acreage. A couple other good breeds out there also, but they're harder to find and more expensive when you do. What ever you decide, get one that has been raised with goats. Don't get a pet and expect it to just be in their genetics... might be, might not be.
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Dairy goats. Mini-Nubian, Nigerian dwarf, and Nubian. We keep a Great Pyrenees with them. And yes, Pyrenees will roam.
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Can one of yall clarify if what I was told a couple of weeks ago is true?
"sold 3 goats at the auction in Karnes City and my check was just under $500".
Now to me that's one heck of a return on an animal that doesn't require a lot of space. Reproduces singles, sometimes doubles, and if lucky drops triplets. Minimal feed and minimal care.
THanksComment
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The water trick is true. And they are very needy. Don’t try to keep one. It will get out looking for a buddy. We raised goats for the local shows. Always had 2 or more around. Good luck.Comment
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That's not uncommon, depending on the breed. I was at an East Texas Goat Raisers Association auction several years ago. One Boar buck sold for $4500. Seen several registered goats sell for over $500 each. I don't remember that I've paid more than $250 for an individual goat.Originally posted by Kbar View Post
I don't agree with the minimal feed and care part though. You may not have to feed much grain, but they do eat a lot of roughage. If you have plenty of grass/brush, your pretty good during the spring/summer months. Late fall through early spring, requires hay. Round bales will be wasted, unless you have a way to keep them from climbing and laying on/in them. Once they pee and mess on it, they don't eat it. Square bales are more expensive per pound, but don't get wasted as much.
Contrary to popular belief, they're not as carefree as people describe them. Worms and sheep's lice are the most common problems, but they can/will have other problems. They're very curious and will get into everything they can... sometimes getting hurt or stuck.
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[QUOTE=Muskles;14076164]That's not uncommon, depending on the breed. I was at an East Texas Goat Raisers Association auction several years ago. One Boar buck sold for $4500. Seen several registered goats sell for over $500 each. I don't remember that I've paid more than $250 for an individual goat.
I don't agree with the minimal feed and care part though. You may not have to feed much grain, but they do eat a lot of roughage. If you have plenty of grass/brush, your pretty good during the spring/summer months. Late fall through early spring, requires hay. Round bales will be wasted, unless you have a way to keep them from climbing and laying on/in them. Once they pee and mess on it, they don't eat it. Square bales are more expensive per pound, but don't get wasted as much.
Contrary to popular belief, they're not as carefree as people describe them. Worms and sheep's lice are the most common problems, but they can/will have other problems. They're very curious and will get into everything they can... sometimes getting hurt or stuck.
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