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Shaft cutting question for tuning

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    Shaft cutting question for tuning

    Ok I have a queation for you guys.
    I was wondering you know as you bare shaft tune you may need to cut your shaft a couple of times to get the correct length correct? Ok well I have been heating the half outsert I have been using just enough to remove the insert cutting the shaft then regluing my insert in. Ok what is wrong with just removing g the nock an trimming the nock end of the arrow instead? Would that make a difference in anything? I'm just curious sure would seem alot easier
    I like shooting bare shafts it's a challenge for me.

    An newman if I have asked you this an you have answered this or told me this sorry I have a short memory lol

    #2
    I'm pretty surprised enewman isn't all over this one. To answers your question most arrow manufacturers create the arrow with the spine bing stiffer in the rear than in the front, if I remember correctly. For sure, I know that if you cut from the back rather than the front you will change the spine of the arrow far more than you intended to. This is why you always cut from the front and not the back.

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      #3
      Originally posted by sutherpride59 View Post
      I'm pretty surprised enewman isn't all over this one. To answers your question most arrow manufacturers create the arrow with the spine bing stiffer in the rear than in the front, if I remember correctly. For sure, I know that if you cut from the back rather than the front you will change the spine of the arrow far more than you intended to. This is why you always cut from the front and not the back.
      That is incorrect. There has been only one manufacturer that tried to say the spine was stiffer in the front of the arrow, and it was proven that is the same throughout the shaft.
      Carbon arrows are spun up on a shaft about 20 feet long and then cut to a length for fletching and packaging. The spine will not be affected by which end you cut.

      But it can be affected by where the weight of the arrow is located. Weight on the front equals a weaker spine, and weight added to the back equals a stiffer spine.

      So cut away on either end you chose to.

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        #4
        CX does have shafts that are stiffer in point end. I think 2 other manufactures are the same. You would be better to check with the manufacturer to make certain.

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          #5
          I'm using black eagle

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            #6
            I always trim from the nock end. You can do it either wayv but for your arrows that would be the easiest instead of working the insert side.

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              #7
              Thank you muddy.

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                #8
                Just make sure you are squaring the nock end every time you cut it.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by bowhuntntxn View Post
                  That is incorrect. There has been only one manufacturer that tried to say the spine was stiffer in the front of the arrow, and it was proven that is the same throughout the shaft.
                  Carbon arrows are spun up on a shaft about 20 feet long and then cut to a length for fletching and packaging. The spine will not be affected by which end you cut.

                  But it can be affected by where the weight of the arrow is located. Weight on the front equals a weaker spine, and weight added to the back equals a stiffer spine.

                  So cut away on either end you chose to.
                  well I feel dumb....

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by TEXAS 10PT View Post
                    Just make sure you are squaring the nock end every time you cut it.
                    Yes sir I will that I am paticular on

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                      #11
                      Well I'm late to this one. But I was hunting. I cut the knoc end. When trimming for my bare shaft. But that is my test arrow. Once done and I know my arrow lenth I cut from the insert end

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by enewman View Post
                        Well I'm late to this one. But I was hunting. I cut the knoc end. When trimming for my bare shaft. But that is my test arrow. Once done and I know my arrow lenth I cut from the insert end
                        No worries. I knew you were otherwise I would have just text you lol. Hope your hunt went well

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Fergeris View Post
                          No worries. I knew you were otherwise I would have just text you lol. Hope your hunt went well
                          It was hot and I'm completely eat up,with bug bites. But I did get a sika.


                          Wind was blowing wrong. He was way alert. Got bad shot. But he only ran about 70 yards.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by enewman View Post
                            Well I'm late to this one. But I was hunting. I cut the knoc end. When trimming for my bare shaft. But that is my test arrow. Once done and I know my arrow lenth I cut from the insert end
                            Howdy all.

                            Enewman...any particular reason you cut insert end and not nock?

                            Fergeris...for trimming...do you use a store bought rig or self made?

                            Thanks.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I used a small triangular file on nock end, working slowly around a piece of painters masking tape, then gently squaring it with fine grit sand paper. This was the process to take about a half an inch off of 32-inch carbon arrows while tuning them as 680 grain total weight with 29 percent FOC. Shoot the same arrows hunting and target -- 300 grain field tips or 225-grain broadhead with a 75-grain screw-in adapter. Shoot a 50-lb recurve. (Yes, they put the arch in archery beyond about 23 yards. )

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