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The how and why to my form (Beginners Guide Volume IV)

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    The how and why to my form (Beginners Guide Volume IV)

    I have been receiving an increasing number of questions lately regarding my form and how I “aim.” In addition it seems that there is a larger than normal influx of converts who are just starting out in traditional archery on this site lately. Therefore I thought I would put something together that will help explain the how and why of my shooting style.

    Disclaimer: Traditional archery is an individual sport and no one method is right for everyone. Each individual’s physical makeup is different so it is important that you build a shot that complements your individual mechanics. I am not posting this, because I think that my method is the only or best way, so please feel free to post additional comments that may help others.

    Consistency. As with any accuracy related activity consistency is the key. A friend in college once told me, “The tournament is won at the line (or stake in 3D) not at the target.” Over the years this statement has become ingrained in my mind to the point that I don’t judge an individual shot by the score it receives, but rather the quality of the shot. If your shot is fundamentally sound you will eventually reap the rewards of higher scores and more efficient kills. Rather than striving to shoot a 12 when you are slumping focus on shooting a good shot and the score will come on its own.

    Too many times I have seen individuals shoot horrible shots that receive high scores and rather than being disappointed that they made a poor shot, they celebrate the high score subconsciously reinforcing the bad shot. While these individuals may occasionally shot a high score over time their consistency will suffer.

    Theoretically you can take a high-powered rifle and shoot it from your hip and have a ½” group at 200yds, but it is not likely. Instead you brace yourself on a solid shooting bench that will aid you in ensuring that every moving part from your cheekbone, to your shoulder to your trigger finger are in exactly the same position for each shot.

    The same applies with compound shooters. All of the devices that we continually harass them about are simply aids to assist with consistency.

    Though we (traditional archers) have elected to toss all material devices that enhance consistency we still have the same ultimate goal in mind, to be as accurate and proficient as possible. Therefore we must utilize the mechanics that God has naturally given us to their fullest potential in order to increase our consistency.

    Since I feel that consistency is the most importing aspect of any discipline of shooting, I continually break down each individual part of my shot to find elements that can improve consistency.

    Anchor. The anchor is the most important individual aspect of my shot and is also the aspect that I see many traditional shooters struggle with the most. Any minor alteration at the rear of the arrow will be magnified downrange.

    For illustration purposes, think of your arrow as a 50’ telephone pole. If you shift the rear a ¼” to the right the front end moves a foot to the left and vice versa. The further you project your arrow the more pronounced this minor adjustment becomes.

    The same applies for short drawing or over drawing. Your “power stroke”, a fancy word for draw length, greatly affects the amount of energy transferred to your arrow. As with the telephone pole example above any minor adjustment greatly affects the outcome on the other end and this outcome is more pronounced the greater the distance the arrow travels.

    Therefore I have a four-step anchor. Those who have seen me shoot know that I hold at full draw for a long period of time and while this is partly the case part of it is due to the multiple steps involved. While the following steps may seem to be overkill and somewhat complex, they have become automatic over time.

    Also please note that everyone has different facial and hand features so everyone’s anchor is different.

    1.) The first thing I do is to anchor my middle finger in the corner of my mouth. Many shooters stop here, but since the corner of your mouth is easily stretched and manipulated I don’t feel that in and of itself that is a solid anchor.
    2.) Secondly I place my hand firmly against my cheek and anchor my thumb behind the point of my jaw. Some may consider this two individual steps, but I can’t have one without the other.
    3.) At this point I lock in my back tension so that my shoulder is no longer bearing the weight of the bow. This is my version of let off, since I can hold my bow at full draw with little effort once the load has been transferred to my back.
    4.) The final step is the major reason I shoot three under. See link for rational http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...ead.php?t=5870 In this step I touch the nock to the corner of my nose. Notice I said that I touch the nock to the corner of my nose, not I touch the corner of my nose to the nock. Once your head is set, always bring your equipment to you never your head to your equipment (note: taken from pro shotgun shooters).

    Once all four steps are locked in I like to hold for a few seconds in order to allow my subconscious to make all the calculations and adjustments necessary prior to transitioning to my release.

    When I am able to complete all four steps of my anchor and have a smooth release I hit my spot. Like everyone else, much of the time everything doesn’t go as I would like and I am a little off at one step or another. However since I have a multiple step process my anchor is generally more solid than the average shooter even when I don’t complete all four steps.

    Bow Arm. Your bow arm is rather simplistic, the more solid, rigid and stable you can make it the better you will be. In order to achieve this I shoot what I refer to as “bone-on-bone.”

    When setting up for the shot, I drop my arm into the shoulder socket and raise my arm with it in the socket so that when the bow is pushing back the energy is supported by my shoulder joint rather than my shoulder muscles which are subject to fatigue.

    To simplify, look at your shoulder with your bow arm pointing at the target. Is it flat or rounded or is there a small depression (cup) that could hold water? If you have a cup, your arm is locked in the socket.

    Next you need to ensure that your bow arm and shoulders form a straight line. Ideally you want to be able to set a broomstick from your wrist up your arm to the apposing shoulder.

    If you hunch over it likely that you are out of alignment somewhere and your form will suffer due to fatigue on long days. Some respond that they only need to make one shot so fatigue isn’t a factor, but what if that one shot is after hiking at altitude or after being up 36 hours straight, or driving all night to get to the lease?

    Though it will sound counterintuitive, in addition to all of the above I attempt to push my bow arm through my intended target. In order to do this I set my shoulder and my alignment prior to beginning my draw. Once I begin my draw I push through the target. This will keep you from collapsing or shooting too strong of a shot (flaring outward like some compound shooters do for style points).

    Keep in mind that the results of an unstable bow arm are the same as an inconsistent release.

    Grip. In my opinion the style of grip, high wrist vs. standard vs. low wrist, is a personal preference item. I recommend finding a grip that is comfortable and will allow you to push to the target without torqueing (sp?) the riser. I like a grip that allows my hand to naturally slide into position so that when I am sweating or in the rain my grip remains consistent.

    I set my hand position prior to initiating my shot sequence. I slide my hand into position then pivot my forearm so that the meaty part is clear of the string.

    Once I begin drawing the bow my hand is limp. The pressure distribution causes only my thumb and pointer finger to wrap around the riser. My hand remains relatively limp throughout the shot. This allows the bow to jump upon release and reduces the opportunity to torque the riser.

    Release. I like to think of the release in the same manner as I do squeezing the trigger on a rifle. It should be a smooth fluid motion with just enough control that the shot doesn’t come as a complete surprise, but not so much control that the shot is deliberate. For me the optimal release is the one that occurs once everything has been locked in for a few seconds and occurs effortlessly.

    Personally I feel that upon release your back tension should cause your hand to slide rearward and slightly downward. For me that means that my hand slides back and down until my index finger is at the base of my ear.

    I am not a fan of a “dead release.” Though it works for some individuals, I have yet to see an Olympic archer with a dead release.

    Canting vs. Straight up. I believe that it is easier to be consistent if you shoot straight up rather than canting. It is too easy to cant a little more or less based on individual situations. If you are on the third day of an elk hunt or you have been sitting in a tree stand for three hours in twenty-degree weather you will likely be stiffer and apt to cant less then you did when you where practicing all summer in eighty-degree weather.

    Another thing to consider if you ever shoot from an elevated position or in hilly terrain, if your arrow is not in the exact center of your string, which it will more than likely not be when you take into account shaft size, finger placement, and tiller; your point of impact will change left/right based on angle and distance. This effect becomes more exaggerated the further from the center of your string your arrow sits combined with the severity of your cant.

    I have often herd individuals say that they cant to open up the sight window so that they can see more of the target. Personally when I am at full draw I am so focused on my spot that I don’t see a wide enough area to consciously see my riser.

    Aiming. I imagine several of you skipped to this section. Aiming is a personal preference item and in reality no one other than you will actually know the method you are using. Personally I could care less. The object is to be proficient at hitting your intended target so experiment a little to determine what works best for you.

    In simplest terms, I am purely instinctive out to around 40yds and shoot off of my tip at greater distances. In other words for close shots I simply pick a spot and concentrate all of my focus on that spot. For longer shots, I know where to place the tip of my arrow in relation to where I want to hit.

    I am left eye dominant and shoot right handed; add to that a 51yd point on and the result is way to much thinking for me to gap shoot on a regular basis. Basically in order to hit my spot at 20yds the tip of my arrow is about a foot to the right and three feet below my target. Therefore it is much easier just to look at the spot I want to hit and let my subconscious do the work.

    When shooting under 40yds I do not consciously adjust anything, I let my subconscious do all of the work. I personally feel that it is a mistake for new shooters to consciously look above or below their spot based on the distance to the target. I believe that you are much better off letting your subconscious make all of the adjustments.

    I very rarely shoot beyond 40yds (target or otherwise) so I do not trust my muscle memory and do not get enough practice at these yardages to train my subconscious to know what the sight picture should look like so I gap shoot. At 40yds my tip needs to be about a foot and a half under and two and a half feet to the right of my intended target. At 51yds my tip needs to be level and three feet to the right, and at 60yds my tip needs to be three and a half feet to the right and two feet above my intended target. If you are right eye dominant and right handed you shouldn’t have t compensate for the windage issues that I deal with.

    It is also worth noting that I shoot instinctive with both eyes open and gap shoot with my left eye closed.

    I am sure I have you thoroughly confused on how I aim at this point. So don’t get too caught up in the details.

    Know Your Shot. I have been asked on several occasions what separates the shooters who consistently shoot high scores from everyone else. Personal I believe that the more advanced shooters know and understand their shot. They know what their ideal shot looks and feels like and when an arrow doesn’t hit its intended mark they can tell you exactly what went array. Until you know and personalize your shot you have no way of knowing what you need to work on.

    Once you know your shot, you can step up to the target and visualize the shot before it even happens. If you can’t see yourself doing it in your mind there is little chance you will be able to translate a given situation to a good shot.

    Practice. There are far too many moving parts in a shot to work on every aspect at one time so break it down. For beginners and those who hit roadblocks I strongly recommend doing drills that allow you to break down your shot. For the more advanced shooter, work on perfecting a different aspect of your shot each time you shoot rather than just flinging arrows.

    At this point I practice very little. If I am getting ready for a hunt or a big shoot I may shoot 30-40 arrows (6-10 per day) the week prior, but I don’t generally practice for the sake of practicing. I prefer quality over quantity and I always end on a good shot.

    Obviously starting out you will need to put in much more practice time.

    #2
    Man I am long winded. That ended up much longer than I expected.
    I hope someone gets something beneficial out of it.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Chris! Great stuff. I'm lost on most of it, but I found some golden nuggets of wisdom. I really cant my bow alot and feel awkward/clumsy with it straight. I guess I'm destined for mediocrity. =)

      Comment


        #4
        WOW!!!! and you said I had too much free time at work.Thanks for the info Chris,I will try to apply what I can.

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          #5
          Some great input Chris...ya still ought to go for World Campionship I think
          If any of you guys get a chance to shoot with him pay attention...HE DOES THE SAME THING EVERY TIME, I noticed and compared him to Mike Frizzel and Mike was the same way. What I mean by everytime is number 1...study your target,dont rush yourself if others are pushing up on you or you feel pressured let them shoot by. mike had a ritual...from adjusting his waist to adjusting his glasses...EVERY time,
          Last edited by Longstick; 07-29-2008, 03:23 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            That might be the best post ever put on this site. I do several things differently, but got a lot out of it. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

            Comment


              #7
              When I started him shooting I never realized he was left eye dominate. My bad.

              You would not believe how many people to this day try to get him to switch to shooting left handed as it will improve his shooting. I think he has learned to over come it.

              I also believe one thing that really helps his shooting especailly, since he has to compensate for being cross eyed, is that he only shoots ONE bow. He shoots that bow untill it is about worn out. When he does buy a new bow it takes a while for him to get used to it.

              HIS QUOTE "Your “buddies” spent much of the day today encouraging me to invest in a longbow and a selfbow. However as I have said before, I still have a lot of room to improve to get to the level I would like with my recurve before I consider stepping up to a longbow, much less a selfbow. Heck, I still find woods frustrating to shoot."

              This drive for perfectionism would have given me ulcers by now. Heck at times just being around HIS drive for perfection has about given me ulcers.

              While I agree with all of his methods I can't come close. Target Panic has really made me feel like a mental midget at times.........

              Chris, this is one of the best descriptions of shooting I have ever read. It is also the most lengthy piece of writing of yours that I have read in a long while. Knowing how you struggled in your early years at school I think you have over come another hurdle harder than shooting. Take care. Dad.
              Last edited by M.E.B.; 07-29-2008, 05:53 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks Chris, I do not hold at full draw more than a split second, this is because I am left eye dominate and the longer I hold at full draw the more cross eyed I get. I also cannot close left eye while shooting so I still aim with my left eye but shoot right handed. I have a quick release really to fast and I can not get out of it. When I close my left eye I get sorta dizzy and after a while get head achs.
                I only shoot only two fingers, one over and one under. What ever you do DO NOT listen to me because I can not shoot nowheres even close to Chris so my post is POINTLESS.
                Just showing differant forms

                Comment


                  #9
                  Great stuff there, Chris. Thanks !!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I think Chris only managed to point out to me 12 to 14 things I am doing wrong. Great post Chris, Bob

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Chunky View Post
                      That might be the best post ever put on this site. I do several things differently, but got a lot out of it. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
                      I'll second that !! I COPIED AND PASTED into my documents

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Great stuff Chris. I will definitely try to use and apply some of it to help improve my shooting.

                        Bisch

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Chris -

                          Thanks for doing this write up. Now all I have to do is get down that way to see you and have you show me what you are talking about....

                          I am a visual learner.... I need pictures or hands on!!

                          Thanks again

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Great Information

                            Originally posted by Bullrdr82 View Post
                            Chris -

                            Thanks for doing this write up. Now all I have to do is get down that way to see you and have you show me what you are talking about....

                            I am a visual learner.... I need pictures or hands on!!

                            Thanks again
                            Chris,
                            Great information;however, perhaps you can post some step by step photos for us visual learners like they post in the recipe section on TBH

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Extremely well written Chris! I would one day like to shoot with you and learn from watching as I am sure many of us on here would! I appreciate your taking time to do such an in depth write-up and also divulging so many of your methods. It makes me proud to see each and every one of us so willing to share and teach others. We all learn something new every day we shoot.

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