New Truck vs New Engine...need some advice

[Sethmac]

This particular shop doesn't "get that deep". I think they would have to send it off to another shop to actually get a true diagnosis.

There official diagnosis was a bad rocker arm. I'm guessing they are assuming damage and the head being replaced? I'm guessing the new engine suggestion is based on the engine not being maintained...i've been working since i bought it to slowly clean it out as previous owner must not have changed oil regularly.

Just seems really high...any mechanics on here?

[ckamp52]

trade it in for something not a dodge

[Lungbustr]

I'd give kreen a shot and if that didnt work check with several other reputable mechanics.

[Sethmac]

I've used Marvelous Mystery Oil and Seafoam in past...

[RJH1]

This particular shop doesn't "get that deep". I think they would have to send it off to another shop to actually get a true diagnosis.

There official diagnosis was a bad rocker arm. I'm guessing they are assuming damage and the head being replaced? I'm guessing the new engine suggestion is based on the engine not being maintained...i've been working since i bought it to slowly clean it out as previous owner must not have changed oil regularly.

Just seems really high...any mechanics on here?

I think you need to find a new shop. Is it just ticking, if so just drive it

[HDWRENCH]

I own a shop and live keller happy to look at for you free of charge . Many times yes you can use a product to break down sludge HOWEVER to say that one guy using one product loves it does not mean it will work in every application as well some times the chunks of sludge when they break loose can plug other oil galleries .

Most of it to be honest is just smoke and mirrors . To break down sludge it needs to be a mineral based product .

So long before anyone added a few items to basic kerosene or diesel relabeled it we used just that a basic fuel .

Todays eco/ VDC what ever you want to call it is controlled by shutting of a lifter GM does it with oil flow , it can be done countless ways but that is where the problem can come in at .

If the engine is really that bad and money is tight I would look for a take out engine myself .

Reman engines are fine but cost wise and warranty can be some what of an issue .


I build Harleys for a living but build hot rods in what little spare time I have . Helped a buddy out with a jasper engine , installed it and it had had fluctuation oil pressure out the gate , spun main bearing , so out it comes and sure they warranty it but not labor or fluids .

Kreen main base is kroil so its a very light oil with penetrating property's .

Nothing really special about any of them really you could use light oil mix with diesel pour it in let it idle for 15 mins drain it . You might be shocked at what will come out , this done several times might clean it out .


On that note My buddy drug his fathers car who passed away, back from OK , car is a 68 Pontiac tempest . I helped him get it up and running it had been stored for 15 years or so and not stored correctly . But it had a few lifters that would not pump up and it was ticking . Added 1 qt diesel to the crank case and let it idle took about 10 minutes and ticking gone . Car has a very sludged up engine his father was not a wrench by any means . but this solved the short term issue any ways he has been driving since spring , runs well , little 389 poncho will get up and move


Worth a shot I would buy really really cheap no brand oil for this and do it a few times no harm really at this point ,


also have you every over heated that engine ?? they have a few quirks like all brands do . Timing chain is a common failure easy to upgrade to the SRT version and valve seats can come loose if over heated , some of them have less than desired interference fit from the factory . Let me know if I can help a fellow TBH member

[Abctx]

Put some Rislone in it and drive it a few hundred miles to see if it clears up.

[Wampuscat]

I’d love to put my old 2001 engine in a new truck. 7.3 Powerstroke with 288k miles would work out great in a brand new body. Might just be a little bit too much like science fiction though.

[Sethmac]

The pulled the valve cover and one rocker arm is loose

[Sethmac]

PM sent HD Wrench

[Worksalot]

That's pretty impressive, I'll be ordering some of that.

It’s pretty good stuff. I need to get some more as well and also some Kroil.

[Sethmac]

So far, consensus is bad rod....it also periodically has a "tinny" metal on metal sound during driving.

I looked at Jasper engines (https://www.jasperengines.com/find-a-price) and their estimate on just the engine is like $4958 adding in a labor rate of $80/hr (not sure if that is reasonable), I get right around the $6500.

Assuming the worse, I'm wondering, what goes into the decision to replace the engine...even as high as $6500, that seems like a bargain compared to buying an equivalent used truck for $20k-25k (I don't finance cars), regardless of the blue book value of the car. What am I missing?

[Wits_End]

Its at the age where things start breaking and wearing out from years alone. If you put a $6500 engine in it, it may run fine bg for a while, but other things will start going out. Transmission, rear diff, alternator, radiator, pump, ftont end, etc. If you are capable and willing to wrench on the rest of the stuff then youll save money having a new engine put in. Drive it for a little over a year and that new engine will be "paid off" based on new car payments. If you hate working on cars then 6500 will give you a nice start on something much newer.

Big shops dont want to repair engines anymore because its not worth it to them. They dont want to risk other things going bad which would cause an unhappy customer. Some smaller shops you can pay simply to repair that engine but they will certainly say no warranty and no guarantees estimate will not increase once they are in.