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    Stiffening forend of a stock?

    So, I've got this Savage 10/110 Predator in 6.5CM with an Accustock that shoots like a custom rifle (.3" w/ handloads) but I need to keep the rest pretty far back in order to get those results. If I rest the rifle up by the front sling stud, the groups open up and they exhibit tons of vertical. I'd really like to start shooting it off a Rugged Ridge bipod but I know that mounting the bipod up front, where they're normally mounted, is going to cause me issues. So, I'm wondering if there's a good way to stiffen the forend?

    I'm also considering swapping the stock to a McMillan or Manners but that's a lot of money into a rifle that won't hold the value. Besides, I kinda hate to mess with success and, aside from some flex in the forend, this stock has been great.

    Any advice would be appreciated.


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    #2
    To modify and existing stock for stiffening you will need to hollow out some materiel then use an epoxy like JB weld. I will usually place a metal rod in a channel and then epoxy it in place.

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      #3
      Other option would be to put a second swivel stud a little further back like a lot of target stocks have. If it is through a thin part of the stock, be sure and reinforce inside the stock.

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        #4
        I've seen people use Rockite to do what you want. Haven't tried it myself.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Outbreaker View Post
          To modify and existing stock for stiffening you will need to hollow out some materiel then use an epoxy like JB weld. I will usually place a metal rod in a channel and then epoxy it in place.


          What kind of rod do you normally use - a stainless or titanium rod?

          Originally posted by TxNurse View Post
          Other option would be to put a second swivel stud a little further back like a lot of target stocks have. If it is through a thin part of the stock, be sure and reinforce inside the stock.


          This was my first thought. Actually, I'm going to install a rail section. I've never shot prone with a bipod before (except with other people's rifles) and I always see them mounted pretty far forward. I figured that added to stability. Am I losing anything by mounting a bipod further back? Say 5"-6" back from the traditional sling stud location?


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            #6
            Originally posted by Horitexan View Post
            What kind of rod do you normally use - a stainless or titanium rod?





            This was my first thought. Actually, I'm going to install a rail section. I've never shot prone with a bipod before (except with other people's rifles) and I always see them mounted pretty far forward. I figured that added to stability. Am I losing anything by mounting a bipod further back? Say 5"-6" back from the traditional sling stud location?


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            I have done the same thing but used an acraglas bedding kit compound just cause I already had the kit from previous glass bedding jobs. If the forearm of the stock has segments like separate boxed-in compartments in the barrel channel I have read where people cut slots through all the dividing segments and filled it with an epoxy compound. By doing so it makes one solid piece of epoxy the length and width of the forearm. The last rifle I worked on was a Remington 783 and its stock would touch the barrel. I took a dremel tool and removed a fair amount of material from the barrel channel of the stock to get plenty of clearance between the stock and the barrel. Then I filled the forearm with the acraglas bedding compound and did a skim/glass bedding job on it. I had about 3 layers of masking tape on the bottom of the barrel rubbed down with kiwi shoe polish to make sure that epoxy didn't affect the float of the barrel. It was a $350 rifle shooting .375 MOA groups at 100yds. I was very impressed.

            Word of warning if you choose to add an epoxy compound to the stock that crap gets every where. I would wrap the ENTIRE stock in that blue painters tape and take a razor blade and cut away the tape over the barrel channel. Wouldn't hurt to rub a little kiwi shoe polish on the very top surface of the stock like the edge where you cut the tape.
            Last edited by DuramaxDude; 04-14-2017, 02:54 PM.

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              #7
              Could do a Boyd's and glass bed it. I did it with a factory 700 .243 and it hold .5 no matter. I tried stiffening the stock and it worked for a little bit but pieces started coming off and made me uneasy. Boyd's are a lot cheaper too and bedding your own rifles gets addictive. Just another thought if you're wanting to tinker with it, unless you're set on that stock.

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                #8
                Originally posted by Horitexan View Post
                What kind of rod do you normally use - a stainless or titanium rod?





                This was my first thought. Actually, I'm going to install a rail section. I've never shot prone with a bipod before (except with other people's rifles) and I always see them mounted pretty far forward. I figured that added to stability. Am I losing anything by mounting a bipod further back? Say 5"-6" back from the traditional sling stud location?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                I used a piece of all thread so I knew it would not move in the epoxy once cured.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Outbreaker View Post
                  To modify and existing stock for stiffening you will need to hollow out some materiel then use an epoxy like JB weld. I will usually place a metal rod in a channel and then epoxy it in place.
                  This/\/\/\ Outbreaker nailed it.

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                    #10
                    Thanks for the info, fellas! I'll give it a shot.


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                      #11
                      What I did on my Ruger American was used a high speed router to cut a channel down the middle of the forearm, I thing placed a solid fiberglass rod in said groove along with a sheet of fiberglass mesh cut to size and the resined in the whole application. After allowing it all the harden i them trimmed mesh and reinstalled action/barrel.....been happy with it.
                      Hope this helps you with some ideas.

                      jrg

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by JRG_80 View Post
                        What I did on my Ruger American was used a high speed router to cut a channel down the middle of the forearm, I thing placed a solid fiberglass rod in said groove along with a sheet of fiberglass mesh cut to size and the resined in the whole application. After allowing it all the harden i them trimmed mesh and reinstalled action/barrel.....been happy with it.
                        Hope this helps you with some ideas.

                        jrg


                        I'm a little surprised that a fiberglass rod added enough stiffness but that sure would help with cutting down on the additional weight. I wonder if I could find a carbon fiber rod?

                        Definitely appreciate the input. Got some good ideas. Sure wish I had a mill to work with!


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                          #13
                          I've used a couple of old arrow shafts that have been retired before. May not be the stiffest but will float a dollar while resting on the forend now

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                            #14
                            A few years back I had to stiffen the stock on my .308. I took some old carbon arrows that I cut down to fit in the stock. Using a dremel tool I created a groove in the bottom and epoxied the rods in. The key thing IMO was that I allowed the rods to extend into the recoil lug area. After the epoxy was dry I glass bedded the recoil lug allowing the bedding compound to extend slightly over the end of the arrows. The fore end is now super stiff and it doesn't matter if I'm shooting off sand bags or a bipod the POI doesn't change.

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