Shaft options for sweetinlow660

[RickBarbee]

Hey Bro.

Keep in mind as you look at these, that the lengths are just what I entered to get as close of a match up as I could. All are still longer than your draw length, but you should always start long, and work them down from full length about 1/4" at a time until you get them flying right for you.

Pictures in order top to bottom:

GT Trad Standard .400
GT Trad Classic .340
Easton Axis FMJ .400

Rick

P.S.
If you come across a different shaft you would like to try, just let me know, and I'll run the numbers for you.

[RickBarbee]

Just to give some perspective, on the difference of the original 300gr front load you were talking about, and the 175gr front load we decided to figure on the above three options.

For a 300gr front load, you are most definitely going to have to have a .300 shaft to do it.
Here is a .300 FMJ for comparison.

GT no longer makes a .300 I know of. .340 is as stiff as they come.
That's why I'm not using them for my rig.

Rick

[RickBarbee]

Oh, and P.S. again:

I could not find anything under a .400 spine, that would allow you to cut them long enough for your draw length even with the 175gr front load. There maybe/probably is, but I didn't have time to look for them.

Like I said - if you find something let me know, and I'll work it up for you.

Rick

[sweetinlow660]

Thank you very much Rick. I just placed an order for the got trad classics in 340 spine. Picked up some 150 two blade heads and the gold tip screw in weights. Hope to have them flying soon.

[RickBarbee]

Thank you very much Rick. I just placed an order for the got trad classics in 340 spine. Picked up some 150 two blade heads and the gold tip screw in weights. Hope to have them flying soon.

You're quite welcome. I think you'll be happy with that choice.

I should have, but didn't mention about the length of the inserts for these micro diameter GT Trad Classic shafts.

This type insert is quite a bit longer than regular inserts.
That length makes them work like an internal footing.

An internal footing actually lessens the effect on weakening the shaft spine of adding weight, and adding internal weight only amplifies that effect.

So, you may wind up with an even longer arrow after cutting them down. Like I said earlier, just start long, and work down 1/4" at a time, until you get where you want to be with them.

You "might" think about using the ballistic collars for them to get some extra weight up front (if you need it). Those collars will weaken the dynamic spine without acting like a footing, because they don't go past the insert, plus (and it's a big plus in my book) the collars will greatly strengthen the business end of your shafts.

Rick

[sweetinlow660]

Would you recommend I start bare shafting them with 175 up front or go ahead and fletch them?

[RickBarbee]

Would you recommend I start bare shafting them with 175 up front or go ahead and fletch them?

I always bare shaft.

Rick

[KenWood]

Very good choice on the trad classics. That is what I shoot and have shot for a few years. I really like the weight and the slimmer shaft.

[sweetinlow660]

I got the shafts, ballistic collars and point weights in. Built up a test arrow bare shaft straight out of the box at 29 1/2”. Shooting a 150 grain head. They fly like darts. Fletched it up and screwed on a broad head and it seemed to fly even better than the field point. THANK YOU Rick for the advice.

Side note. If you order the GT trad classic from 3rivers they come with ballistic collars so save yourself $28 and don’t order them. And the 2 blade Pile Driver broadheads from Carbon Express seem to be a great head for the money $15 for a 3 pack.

[RickBarbee]

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Rick