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Old 11-16-2018, 08:29 AM   #1
sweetinlow660
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Default Tuning Help

Anyone live with in an hour or so of Pottsboro TX that would be willing to assist me in tuning my broadheads. For the past two seasons I have had zero luck getting a consistent tune on my broadheads. Field points are hitting dead on, but broad heads consistently plane left. bow has been paper tuned and I nock tuned the arrows yesterday and tightened up the groups considerably but I just don't like watching my arrow fly to the target and seeing that fletching wiggle wobble. I'm shooting an 80# elite answer 300 spine FMJs with 4 blade slick tricks and NAP quick fletches. I really don't want to have to shoot an expandable head to get consistent arrow flight. Never had a tuning issue quite like this one and I'm Lost.

For the record I'm not asking for free service. I'll take it to a shop and pay I just want to be able to get the bow back same day and I know that is a tall order this time of year.
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:09 AM   #2
Outlaw_6
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Draw length?

Arrow length?

Total point weight (head and insert)?

Distance of paper tuning?

What happens if you decrease draw weight?

If broadheads get closer to fpís at <80lbs, you may be underspined for an 80lb dw.

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Old 11-17-2018, 08:47 AM   #3
Low Fence
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Do the quick fletch have and offset or helical? Or just straight? If straight that will be 99% of issue
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Old 11-17-2018, 08:51 AM   #4
oktx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Fence View Post
Do the quick fletch have and offset or helical? Or just straight? If straight that will be 99% of issue
This and what rest do you have?
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Old 11-17-2018, 08:54 AM   #5
chris1911
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could also be grip, pulling too hard into the back wall, or facial pressure on the string..........
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:32 AM   #6
sweetinlow660
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They are the quick spin NAP quick fletches. I was having this trouble with helicalled feathers also. QAD drop away rest. Not sure on exact arrow length as I don't have tape with me at the moment but they were cut the same as the last 3 dozen Ive shot out of this bow for the lst 6 years without any issue.

I tried paper tuning this morning and do not have enough rest adjustment to move far enough to eliminate the tear. I'm at a loss and about to go buy a new bow. I can't stand equipment issues. LOL
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:35 AM   #7
sweetinlow660
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I backed the draw weight down to about 74lbs and now have a decent arrow group at 20 yds. But the arrow flight still got a real tight circular plane to it. Ugly arrow flight tells me there is still something wrong I just cant find it.
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:37 AM   #8
oktx
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I’m guessing rest is not timed properly.
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Old 11-17-2018, 11:12 AM   #9
Low Fence
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If something is not centered or very very close something somewhere is off. Running anything near out of adjustment means there’s another issue. Probably requires press and some string and cable work if not shooter error
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:29 PM   #10
sweetinlow660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Fence View Post
If something is not centered or very very close something somewhere is off. Running anything near out of adjustment means thereís another issue. Probably requires press and some string and cable work if not shooter error
This is what I'm thinking. I can't say 100 that its not some shooter error, but if it is I'm VERY consistent in my errors. After rethinking every thing about the issues and when they started I believe they began shortly after having a new string built for it. Gonna try and get to a pro shop as soon as I can. Got the H in two weeks.
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Old 11-23-2018, 01:55 AM   #11
lovemylegacy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetinlow660 View Post
I backed the draw weight down to about 74lbs and now have a decent arrow group at 20 yds. But the arrow flight still got a real tight circular plane to it. Ugly arrow flight tells me there is still something wrong I just cant find it.
Sounds like you might have incorrect spined arrows.

May be an improper set up on the bow cable.


Any cam lean?
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Old 11-27-2018, 10:53 AM   #12
Briar Friar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetinlow660 View Post
Anyone live with in an hour or so of Pottsboro TX that would be willing to assist me in tuning my broadheads. For the past two seasons I have had zero luck getting a consistent tune on my broadheads. Field points are hitting dead on, but broad heads consistently plane left. bow has been paper tuned and I nock tuned the arrows yesterday and tightened up the groups considerably but I just don't like watching my arrow fly to the target and seeing that fletching wiggle wobble. I'm shooting an 80# elite answer 300 spine FMJs with 4 blade slick tricks and NAP quick fletches. I really don't want to have to shoot an expandable head to get consistent arrow flight. Never had a tuning issue quite like this one and I'm Lost.

For the record I'm not asking for free service. I'll take it to a shop and pay I just want to be able to get the bow back same day and I know that is a tall order this time of year.
Increase your FOC. Dr Ashby has awesome demonstrations of how high foc arrows come out of paradox much faster than low FOC arrows.
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Old 11-27-2018, 11:17 AM   #13
sweetinlow660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Briar Friar View Post
Increase your FOC. Dr Ashby has awesome demonstrations of how high foc arrows come out of paradox much faster than low FOC arrows.
I have tried that. Im a huge believer in high FOC. Ive increased the point weight from 100 grain heads with 17 grain inserts all the way to 200 grain heads with 100 grain inserts. seem to be getting the best performance out of the 100 grain heads. I definitely have a cable issue but ive got it tuned to an acceptable level as long as I shoot expandables or field tips. not my preferred tip but it will work with the time crunch i'm in.
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Old 11-27-2018, 11:20 AM   #14
Fat Pappy
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Start at the beginning, check your axle to axle and brace height, you had a new string on.
Now check your timing on cams and cam lean.
Ok now if everything is ok check rest and nocking point on string.
Ok now shoot it through paper, I shoot about 5/6 feet.
Ok so you have a good hole, let’s shoot a field point and Broadheads to see how close they are.
On broad head, make sure the Ferrell isn’t bent, that could give you bad flight. If you can get a rage or another mechanical, shoot all three just to see what’s the difference.
On arrow flight it could be the spine and they might not be cut straight at the insert causing bad arrow flight. And just as a reminder, carbon arrows break down as you shoot them, so if they have been target arrows for awhile it can happen.
Well good luck to you I hope this will help you.
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Old 11-27-2018, 11:27 AM   #15
Larry
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Have you tried a completely different arrow? Do your current FMJ's pass a spin test with those fixed heads? How many different arrows and heads are you shooting during your practice, etc? Just curious if it's a small batch that's doing it or an entire dozen.
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:37 AM   #16
enewman
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I don’t due to many tuning posts any more. But I would like to see what you have going on.

I didn’t see tour specs. I may have missed them.
So f you I mine re post them. Now I did see you stated you tux down tp 74lbs. So depending on arrow length I’m sure your shooting a 250 spine. If not you prolly should be.

Hereis a test. But bow must be reset to factory settings. And arrow level in center of Berger hole. Take one fletched and one bare shaft and shoot at same spot at 10 yards. If the bare shaft is not leaning to bad then back up to 20 and reshoot.

This will tell you a lot. If the bare shaft is to the right or left and leaning (example: if shaft hits to the right of fletched the nock will be left) then your power stroke is off. If the shaft is below with nock high the shaft is bending to much on shot. Or cams out of sync. If it’s high with nock low then your cams out of sync or posible bad nock travel from bow. Now this is not all f reasons but should get you started. Now you must shoot the fletched and bare shaft several times t make sure y are getting correct data. If the bareshaft changes then you will need to work on your form and release before you can do anything else
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:17 AM   #17
Briar Friar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetinlow660 View Post
I have tried that. Im a huge believer in high FOC. Ive increased the point weight from 100 grain heads with 17 grain inserts all the way to 200 grain heads with 100 grain inserts. seem to be getting the best performance out of the 100 grain heads. I definitely have a cable issue but ive got it tuned to an acceptable level as long as I shoot expandables or field tips. not my preferred tip but it will work with the time crunch i'm in.

Go to 300 heads...JK.

Good luck.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:34 AM   #18
mej4219
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300 spine arrows are going to be too weak for an 80lb draw unless they are cut down significantly. Adding weight to the front (broadheads and inserts) breaks down that spine further which is why the 100 grains are giving you the best groups.

Also if your arrow speed gets too high, fixed blades won't fly well. Pulling 80 lbs, you might be getting close to that speed (I've personally had issues past 300fps). You could also try going to a four fletch which will give the back of the arrow more control to offset the broadhead trying to "steer" the arrow.

Without actually seeing your setup and seeing you shoot, thats what comes to mind. Hope it helps. Good luck!
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:35 AM   #19
sweetinlow660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Briar Friar View Post


Go to 300 heads...JK.



Good luck.


Iíve got some. And actually wouldnít have an issue shooting them. Matter of fact next year Iím going to grizzly sticks and heavy 2 blade single bevels.


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