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    YOUTH BOW (easy) build along...

    I’ve gotten a lot of interest in plans for the Youth Bows I recently started building. So, here we go…

    First, go here and read the sections on selecting boards and tillering board bows. Ferret's Board Bow instructions Some of this will apply to these little bows, some won't but read the material selection and tillering sections for sure.

    Secondly, I gotta give credit to Mike “Elkninja” Miller for posting a similar thread on TG and giving me his blessing to share them here along with some of his pics. I’ll use some of Mike’s pics to get us started today and start taking and using my own when we get to the riser design as mine is a little different than Mike’s.

    The Plans Diagram

    Click image for larger version

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    Materials:
    2 – ¼”x 2”x 48” Red Oak Planks (about $5 at Home Depot or Lowe’s)
    Wood Glue (I use Titebond II)
    Stain (optional)
    Finish (clear gloss or satin finish)
    Tennis racket grip ($3 for 3 of them at WalMart)
    #20 Hemp cord (enough for 3 bowstrings for about $3 at WalMart)

    Click image for larger version

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    Tools:
    A Jigsaw is a minimum but a band saw is helpful.
    Rumor has it that a belt-sander in also helpful…I just use sandpaper and elbow-power.
    Clamps
    4-way file (optional)
    Tape measure

    Step 1:
    Cut one of the planks into 2 – 2” pieces for the tips and 3 – 6” pieces for the riser. Do this for each bow you’re making.

    Step 2:
    Make a mark at the center of the bow and a line 3” on either side of center (see first image below). This is where your riser pieces will be stacked and glued-up (see second pic below)
    Side note: to save time here if you’re building several bows for Scouts or something, buy and use a 1”x 2”x 60” Red Oak board for the risers rather than stacking the 6” pieces.




    Step 3:
    Glue-up! Place the 2” pieces at each end (measurement "A") and stack the 6” pieces in the center on the opposite side (measurement "C"), glue and clamp. Whipe excess glue as you clamp with a clean, damp rag. Read the directions on the glue you decide to use for drying time. I usually remove the clamps after an hour or so and glue-up the next one but don't strees the glue by cutting for 24 hours or so.



    Step 4:
    Limb Layout. Use the diagram at the beginning of this thread to help layout the limb tapers from riser to tip and remember that we are using a finished 2" board so our width is already 1-1/2". Start by making a couple of dots 1/2” in on both ends of the limb tips (see measurement “D” in diagram and red dots on pic). Next measure 1-1/2” from each side of the riser and make two more dots to mark measurement “B” from the diagram (see red dots on image below). Now connect the dots! These are the lines that you’ll use to cut the limb profiles down. I try to cut just outside the lines and the sand to them.



    That’s it for now…don’t cut the limbs down yet! It’s easier to rough the riser out first while the limbs are square, then cut the limbs down. I’ll post more on the riser layout and roughing it out with a jigsaw later…or tomorrow.
    Last edited by tinman; 11-14-2006, 03:25 PM.

    #2
    oh no. i can feel this one getting in my blood.
    dang you Tinman, dang you.


    keep post'n plllleeease!!

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      #3
      Hmmm, think I might make one for my 4 year old. He's got a fiberglass cheapie now. He can't pull it all the way back yet, but I just like the look of a wood bow. Then he could be just like dad when I bust out the recurve from time to time!
      Thanks tinman!

      Comment


        #4
        Step 5:
        Layout riser lines onto 6" riser area using trace template above. You may have to save the picture and adjust it's size to fit before printing template...or just free-hand it. To build a lefty riser, flip the template over. I am trying to come up with a good design that will work for RH and LHers and still have enough structure not to break in the middle...I'll have to get back with you on that. If you plan to build several of these, make a trace template out of wood like this one.




        Total layout pic done with a Sharpie so the lines show up better.

        IMG_0003 (Medium).JPG


        Step 6:
        Riser cuts. The riser has a total of 6 cuts...at least it takes me 6 cuts with a jigsaw to get a decent riser. Anyone using a bandsaw or scroll saw may get nicer cuts, faster and with less work. I do mine in this order using the color codes in the pic below.

        1st - Red
        2nd - Yellow
        3rd - Blue
        4th - Green



        Make certain that the intersection of the Blue and Yellow cuts are not too close to the Green cut or it will break under pressure.

        5th & 6th are the Pink cuts on the sides, seen here. Jigsaw users, be careful making these cuts and everyone cut away from the limb!

        IMG_0006 (Medium).JPG

        Step 7:
        Limb cuts are pretty self-explanatory...follow the lines and cut right through tip overlays too. I'll post pics of a roughed out bow later...I gotta go get my daughter from school.

        Don't cut yourself!
        Last edited by tinman; 11-14-2006, 04:57 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Rough Cut pics. Sorry for the quality...I was having trouble with the flash reflecting off the floors.

          Riser top...
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          Riser side...
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          Limb rough...
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          Tip with basic nock notched in...
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          Next up sanding and tillering...
          Last edited by tinman; 11-14-2006, 10:16 PM.

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            #6
            Dang you Tinman!!!! THis is awesome can't wait and see the rest...... Excuse me I must be on my way to Home Depot!!!!!!

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              #7
              This is awesome!!!! keep it coming.This is one of the best DIY projects I have ever seen. My daughter is already asking me when I am going to build her one.

              Comment


                #8
                Rough sand...

                OK, it's time to sand...

                Step 8:
                Use file and rough grit sandpaper to knock the rough edges off and prevent yourself from getting splinters. If you have a beltsander, this is a good place to spend sometime shaping the handle a little bit...if not, this will take forever! Finish sand will be done after we tiller.

                Step 9:
                Build a bowstring (or just buy one, AMO 48" should work fine). There are lots of places online to teach you how to build a bowstring but I'll post some quick instructions for the simple strings I am building. They're not flemish, they're not served, they are simply tied together, but after hundreds of shots around here they appear to be safe.

                Use two pieces of the 20# Hemp cord to make each string (WalMart crafts area with beads for making necklaces). Try to use two difference colors for a nice look when it's twisted to length.

                First, I took a 2"x 4" scrap and placed a couple of sheetrock screws 44.5" apart. Next tie a 1" loop in one end of the cord and loop it around one of the screws. Then just wrap it back and forth around the screws 3 or 4 times to the end and tie it off about 1" away from the last screw it'll wrap and cut off excess. Repeat the process with second strand make sure that you are wrapping the cord in a continuous circle and not a 'figure 8' pattern. You should have 6-8 strands of cord now.

                Next is the 'semi-serving'. These bows are only around 10-20#s so I have been able to get away without a real serving. I take a 12" piece of the leftover cord and tie a knot about 1" in from the screw. Then loop the long end through the end of the string repeatedly with 1/8" - 1/4" spacing all the way around the loop. Tie it off tight and clip the ends leaving just enough excess to pull knots tight from time to time if needed.

                Should look like this on both ends...

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                Remove one screw from board to slide the string off without damaging it. Wax it heavily with bowstring wax as this does not have any wax on it. Once on the bow, you'll tie a nock point on it'll be ready to go.

                Step 10:
                Tiller-Time! Read Ferret's tillering section to learn the basics of tillering? Here's where we cut some time and start testing our limbs for safety at the same time...we string and brace-up the bow. If it's gonna break that easy, we want it to break on us right now or while we are shooting the bow in. I've yet to loose one of these little bows by skipping the tiller tree and tillering them at brace.

                Brace height should be around 5.5 - 6". If it's shorter, twist the string a few times 'til it's there. If it's longer than that, take some twist out of the string until you get it there....we call this advanced tuning techniques in the trad-forum.

                Here's what it's supposed to look like at brace and at full draw (pics nabbed from the Ferret's page, link above).

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                If it doesn't have the nice cresent-curve, you gotta take some wood off the belly. I use the edge of my 4-way file to do this with the bow at brace until I get the shape I want...if you can resist shooting the bow at the stage you're a better man than I. Keep a 22" arrow around so you don't draw it too far, it will break.

                If you run into tillering problems, post pics of the bow at brace in the trad forum...maybe one of the real bowyers over there can help you save it and teach us both something in the process.

                Step 11:
                What's next? Remove string and finish-sand to get it ready to stain/finish.

                Be back later...I got 5 of these starting Step 10 right now.
                Last edited by tinman; 11-15-2006, 02:28 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Tinman, this is too cool, Thanks ! ! I have a Grandson and a Granddaughter that will get one for Christmas. Don't forget to tell how you personalize each one. I am off to Home Depot and Wal Mart.

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                    #10
                    So 22" arrows are what we need to use with these?

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                      #11
                      too cool , the kids would love that.

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                        #12
                        so is tiller-in shaving off the 1/4 thickness or the tapering ?

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                          #13
                          Joey....I got my nephew's bow this morning from Casey. It looks great! I can't wait to give it to him at Christmas! Thanks alot. I really appreciate it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks Joey, this is going to be fun to build.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by expressfish View Post
                              so is tiller-in shaving off the 1/4 thickness or the tapering ?
                              Eric - since these limbs are so flat, I take it off the tapers and try not to round the sides/belly too much. It's only 1/4" so you can't really round it too much I guess. If it were a thicker board bow like the 45-55# ones in the Ferret's wepage, you might want to round the back more and take the wood from the belly of the bow.

                              Chew - glad you like it...string it up and shoot a few from it!

                              Junior - yes, 18-22" should keep the bows in a safe range where they will last longer. I just cut off a couple of my old carbon arrows and add a rubber blunt tip for the little ones and a field point for the 5+ year-olds...I prob'ly shoot 'em more than they do.

                              My daughters bow with an 18" arrow and the rubber tip will blow a nickle-sized hole right through sheetrock! The fieldpoints will bury into a target rather than bounce back like Liam's old bow did at a 3D shoot this Summer. These bows are not really toys that I'd turn the kids loose with. I surpervise every shot to prevent injury or property damage.

                              Glad to see you guys are enjoying the info! More to come...
                              Last edited by tinman; 11-15-2006, 10:54 PM.

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