Originally posted by Skipshot
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Water Well Question
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Originally posted by Geoff995 View PostLicensed irrigator here. It is impossible to increase pressure by reducing line size. The only thing your doing by reducing line size is increasing friction loss which in turn will reduce pressure.
Skinny what gpm are you planning on running through the line.
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Originally posted by Wall_Hanger View PostAre you tying into his tank so that you don't have to run a parallel circuit for the wells pressure switch cutoff? Have you verified that the well pump can supply enough volume at any pressure to meet to residential demands. Most are not sized with that kind of margin.
No I’m tying into his water line so I don’t have to drop 20K on a water well 300’ from our existing well. Haha.
His well has provided water for his house here, three livestock water troughs, etc for 20 years.
My family of 4 has lived at his ranch house for a year now and the well has performed flawlessly.
Skinny
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Originally posted by Smart View PostFor those long showers with the door locked Andrea says you take, you better get a booster pump to keep the pressure up in both houses...
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Originally posted by Skinny View PostNo I’m tying into his water line so I don’t have to drop 20K on a water well 300’ from our existing well. Haha.
His well has provided water for his house here, three livestock water troughs, etc for 20 years.
My family of 4 has lived at his ranch house for a year now and the well has performed flawlessly.
Skinny
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Water Well Question
Originally posted by Wall_Hanger View PostWould it make sense to add a single larger pressure tank to replace the existing one and feed both houses off it. You could leave a manifold with tee's in place where a booster could be added later if needed? Ideally you want a check valve on your line after the tie in to keep usage elsewhere from robbing your tank but this would create issues for your refilling because the well switch is off the existing tank, which will still have pressure even when your new tank is empty. General note, always add isolation so that each leg can be valved out if needed.
I get what you are saying. Good points.
I’ll have to double check, but I believe my dad has a 40 gallon bladder tank in his well house. There is a 30/50 switch. My thinking might be wrong, but if I put a 40 gallon or larger bladder tank and pump inline in my well house with a 30/50 switch, my pump will kick on at 30 psi and begin to pressure up/refill my bladder tank. When the pressure drops to 30 psi on my dads tank, the well pump will kick on and start to pressure up/refill the whole system. I’m guessing my tank would fill and pressure up first then a short time later, his would do the same. Thinking they will work in conjunction with one another to keep the whole system pressured up. I could be way off, but that’s the way we had it set up on the other place. It’s been years since we did that....trying to jog my memory. Lol.
As far as the check valve goes, yes I’d have one to maintain my pressure when a valve is open on my dads side...be it a water trough float, shower, or whatever. As far as an issue with check valve inline when refilling my tank, I’d think as soon as the pressure drops on my side of the check, it would open and begin to rob pressure off the upstream side of the check. Just thinking out loud.
SkinnyLast edited by Skinny; 10-09-2018, 04:13 PM.
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I would hook up a constant pressure valve all-in-one system and be done for under 5 hundred bucks... mine has worked flawlessly for the last 4 years I love it
The newest innovation in pump control technology is "constant pressure valves". The name "constant pressure valve" was coined several years ago by Cycle Stop Valves or CSV. Some people would like you to believe that variable speed pumps, VFD, or so called "constant pressure pumps" are the most modern pump control syste
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Originally posted by kingranch View PostI would hook up a constant pressure valve all-in-one system and be done for under 5 hundred bucks... mine has worked flawlessly for the last 4 years I love it
https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/cy...pressure-pumps
Interesting. Thanks for the link. Can you explain the way this would be set up and work in my situation? Thanks.
Skinny
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Honestly the last thing I want is a big holding tank...it may be the best option, but probably my last. My Dad’s well is over 400’ feet deep in the Trinity aquifer and man that water is some of the best stuff coming straight out of the ground. I’ll have to do some research on holding tanks I guess.
Thanks for the input.
Skinny
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The storage tank will decrease your down hole pump cutting off and on during use. Instead, it will cut on to fill the storage tank completely and then cut off. Cycling is what decreases well pump life on single pages motors. It will destroy a 3 phase motor.
You would have the booster pump on your storage tank with a VFD, pressure switch, or cycle stop valve and that would provide water to your house. The VFD and/or CSV will decrease pump cycling.
With rural water, storage is king. If your well goes down or any component associated, you're SOL. With a storage tank you have supply.
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