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Old 05-11-2017, 09:13 PM   #1
mikemorvan
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Default Critique this blind plan please.

I'm about to build a couple of 2, or 3, person blinds. I like to have plenty of room to maneuver. These are gun blinds that will be on a short platform. The idea is to build the platforms (already cut and in the pasture awaiting assembly), and then assemble the blind panels in the pasture as well. The 3/8" plywood walls will extend over the base. The framing will be of a combination of 2x2's and 2x4's. Screwed together w/ the new fangled SPAX screws from Home Depot that i really like. My plan may be a little lacking, but i have it pretty well sorted out in my head.

My main question / concern is this. I want to make sure the blind is just small enough to allow a full 4x8 - 5/8" piece of cdx plywood to serve as the roof. I only want one piece of plywood for the roof. I've forgotten what little geometry i ever learned. But a think a 41" width, with 6" drop from front to back will leave enough of the 48" piece of plywood to have an inch or so overhang on the front and back. Am i right? I hope this makes sense.

Sorry about the size. Thanks for looking.
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:07 AM   #2
Hix
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I built a similar blind. Full 4x8 on two pallets decked with treated 2x6's and treat 2x4's doubled up under it. I went 24" center on the studs. It's solid as brick porta John.


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Old 05-12-2017, 05:32 AM   #3
T-roy66
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Mike
Go with the deer view windows for sure they seal up good and tight and they have a large selection of sizes to choose from. Also look at their doors with frame a little pricey but are worth it if you plan on having the blinds for a long time. Go to Lowes and pick up some 2" 90 degree roof flashing I put this on the corners. This keeps the ends of the plywood from rotting due to exposure to the weather. Looking at your drawing I would go with a flat roof. Just cut one side of the blind 2"shorter so the rain drains off the roof.
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:55 AM   #4
F0WL_LIF3
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You could also look into MaxxedOutdoors.com for windows. I have them in mine and are **** good.

Definitely add some flashing to sides and wouldn't hurt to add it to the roof as well. I would also seal it under the tin in the front since you are sloped. water will get underneath and make its way to the roof
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Old 05-12-2017, 10:49 AM   #5
sotx
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Deerview windows are a must
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Old 05-12-2017, 11:02 AM   #6
TeamAmerica
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you need the old Pythagorean theorem. A squared + B squared = C squared. i think with two known sides of the triangle would be 42" (48 minus 6" overhand) and 6" (front elevation change). this means the other dimension (or depth of the blind in your case) would be 41.5". I think your 41" guess is almost right on.

good luck!
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Old 05-12-2017, 11:03 AM   #7
Tx_Wader
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I didn't see the depth of the blind but make it at least 5' for leg room.
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Old 05-12-2017, 11:08 AM   #8
hunt247
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I would just do a single pitch or slant roof. Easier and less chance of leak.
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Old 05-12-2017, 04:54 PM   #9
mikemorvan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamAmerica View Post
you need the old Pythagorean theorem. A squared + B squared = C squared. i think with two known sides of the triangle would be 42" (48 minus 6" overhand) and 6" (front elevation change). this means the other dimension (or depth of the blind in your case) would be 41.5". I think your 41" guess is almost right on.

good luck!
I knew about old Pythagorous. I've just never been able to exactly cypher out his theorem. This is what i was looking for. Thanks. Just wanted to have someone verify before i went to cutting material.

I'm going to have windows made of plywood that will open with a wire loop hooked to the inside of the ceiling. I put hasps inside to latch them closed. I don't have to worry about windows breaking, blowing open, or generally being jacked up. I've checked out the Deerview windows and certainly don't have anything negative to say about them. I just prefer to be able to latch the windows shut from the inside, and have them stay shut.

Thanks for all the input. Hopefully i can add some pics as i move along.
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Old 05-12-2017, 04:56 PM   #10
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BTW - the roof is a simple slant. Much, much like to picture above. Same general idea on the windows as well.
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:01 PM   #11
Dale Moser
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41" Deep is going to SUCK, imo. My knees won't tolerate even a 48" deep blind, 41" would be unbearable...not to mention hard to manuever rifles and stuff in.


Buy another piece of plywood and build it 5' deep.


I'll never build another deer blind door or window, deerview everything from now on.
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:09 PM   #12
mikemorvan
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I'll have to do some thinking on the depth. Legroom is a consideration. Maybe i'll just have to have a little more plywood for roof and sides. We'll see...
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemorvan View Post
My main question / concern is this. I want to make sure the blind is just small enough to allow a full 4x8 - 5/8" piece of cdx plywood to serve as the roof. I only want one piece of plywood for the roof. I've forgotten what little geometry i ever learned. But a think a 41" width, with 6" drop from front to back will leave enough of the 48" piece of plywood to have an inch or so overhang on the front and back. Am i right? I hope this makes sense.

Sorry about the size. Thanks for looking.
You are going to end up with 3.25" of over-hang on both sides.

41^2 + 36^2 = ~41.5^2

If it were me.. I wouldn't put plywood on the roof and would just attach the tin directly to the rafters.

If I were to put plywood on the roof, I would make flush the plywood and give myself an extra precious leg room and make it 47.5" wide with the 6" rise to come out at 48". Tin comes in 10-12' lengths and you can cut them in half to get your water shedding overhang.

If you are going to bother to put plywood on the roof... might as well put 15# felt too otherwise there isn't much point IMO. But again, I wouldn't put either (I haven't and I don't regret not doing so.)

Last edited by SwampRabbit; 05-12-2017 at 05:13 PM..
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:20 PM   #14
mikemorvan
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I'll probably use plywood. It'll have felt and shingles. Metal edge, etc.

Corners will be flashed, etc. The thing will be built "right".

Keep the thoughts coming...
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:42 PM   #15
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Sounds uncomfortable to me at 41" Deep
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:59 PM   #16
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I can tell you right now, sitting in a 4' deep blind sucks a proverbial fat ****.

By the time you position your chair to shoot, you've banged it against the back wall, then in surprise, you kick the front wall and hit your head on the window frame all in one motion. No thank you. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

I sit for long periods, and want room to stretch out.

Make it 6x8 floor, and then use corrugated or R-panel for a roof over plywood and felt.

Sure, it costs more to build, but you'll be a whole lot more comfortable in the long run.

Plywood doors are crap, unless they have a rigid frame, and a good skeleton to stiffen the door itself. First humid day it'll warp beyond salvation, and you have built a really big mouse and coon house.

Same goes for windows.

I've built my own, and it's a pain in the butt. While I am quite capable, I will not be doing it again. Deerview products are a lot of value for windows that function as they should in a hunting blind. I've not found any commercial windows that do what I want.




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Old 05-12-2017, 09:13 PM   #17
mikemorvan
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Dang you TBH. With all your people with good experience and good ideas. I'm making it 5' deep and 90" wide. That'll at least save me a little cutting on the roof. I get what you kids are saying on the deerview windows and doors. I may revisit that as well. But i've built a few blinds, i like my window and door design, and - what's a little more work? We'll see. I do budget have some budget limitations.

I do appreciate the thoughts.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:36 PM   #18
NTex
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The weak spots on blinds are the windows and doors.

I would use deer views windows and old used rv compartment doors.
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Old 05-13-2017, 12:00 AM   #19
Gummi Bear
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Put it to ya this way:

I built the blind at the Farm near 10 years ago. It is still perfect, with no bugs, mice or leaks.

Sure, it cost more and took longer to build, but my daughter will never even have to repair it.


It is a fully welded, 1 " square tube frame (all joints mitered, none left open) sided with Hardiboard and a R-panel roof.

Dad designed it, and he and I did the fab work. We've hunted it a bunch.


I'm supposed to start a new blind this summer for a buddy, same construction type, with an 8x8' floor. It is intended for sitting for long hours, and being comfortable the whole time.


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Old 05-15-2017, 02:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemorvan View Post
Dang you TBH. With all your people with good experience and good ideas. I'm making it 5' deep and 90" wide. That'll at least save me a little cutting on the roof. I get what you kids are saying on the deerview windows and doors. I may revisit that as well. But i've built a few blinds, i like my window and door design, and - what's a little more work? We'll see. I do budget have some budget limitations.

I do appreciate the thoughts.
You're roughly 20-25 miles from us if interested in visiting our showroom and discussing options. I'd be more than glad to visit with you over the phone too.
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Old 05-15-2017, 02:53 PM   #21
More Liberty
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Looks wayyyy too comfortable
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