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Old 05-17-2018, 07:49 PM   #1
Dr. Evil
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Default Yellow St. Augustine grass

I had top dressing, mostly manure, put on my yard about 5 weeks ago. The St. Augustine grass has filled in nicely. Problem is, it is turning a bright yellow. In person it is a lot more yellow than the photo indicates. Anyone know what is causing it to turn bright yellow, instead of dark green?

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Old 05-17-2018, 08:06 PM   #2
Rotney
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil View Post
I had top dressing, mostly manure, put on my yard about 5 weeks ago. The St. Augustine grass has filled in nicely. Problem is, it is turning a bright yellow. In person it is a lot more yellow than the photo indicates. Anyone know what is causing it to turn bright yellow, instead of dark green?

Thanks,

Dr. Evil


Too much water?


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Old 05-17-2018, 08:12 PM   #3
shark79
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Iron deficiency?
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:20 PM   #4
HunterDan2006
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St Augustine can be prone to fungus. That will turn it yellow. Try spreading a quarter inch of Canadian peat moss on it.
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:21 PM   #5
Etxbuckman
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Too much sun? A good chunk of my lawn gets exposed to direct sunlight 10+ hours a day and it's a battle to keep it green when we're not getting any **** rain.
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:22 PM   #6
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Iron deficiency?
^^^^ this 100%
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:04 PM   #7
toaster
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Fungus, prolly take all root. Hit it with agricultural corn meal, then peat moss. Otherwise you'll lose it all.

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Old 05-17-2018, 10:20 PM   #8
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Fungicide. Any type.
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:43 PM   #9
tps7742
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Are you watering at night or late evening? If so this can cause a fungus and kill the grass.
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Old 05-17-2018, 11:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterDan2006 View Post
St Augustine can be prone to fungus. That will turn it yellow. Try spreading a quarter inch of Canadian peat moss on it.


Dan is correct. This is Take all Root Rot. I would spread about an inch of peat moss immediately and use back side of leaf rack to spread it out evenly after tossing on the ground. Water it in and youíll see results in a few days. Itís a messy job but it works.l, something to do with changing the ph level quickly causes the fungus to halt. Only thing I have found that works.
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Old 05-18-2018, 06:55 AM   #11
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Milorganite
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Old 05-18-2018, 08:23 AM   #12
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If your yard has been real wet or really damp nights, it will be a fungus. Otherwise itís probably an iron deficiency.


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Old 05-18-2018, 10:34 AM   #13
Mike D
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As has been said either iron deficiency or fungus. Usually you can see the fungus on the blades.

Get some ironite and broadcast on it. If you see fungus, put the peat moss on it as well.


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Old 05-18-2018, 10:48 AM   #14
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Could also be brown patch which is another fungus commonly found in St Augustine.

Having issues with mine as well but I'm getting dark green patches. I've been to the nursery and was told it may be brown patch or take all root rot but it doesn't seem to fit the description of either. You can google them both and get some good info on how to tell between them. Just inquired with a good local lawn company so hoping they can tell me what it is.
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:32 AM   #15
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Get some Ironite from Home Depot or Walmart. They make a liquid foliar version or granular. Liquid is more of a quick fix, granular is longer lasting. This will fix Iron deficiency and fast and turn your lawn dark green if that's the issue. If it's not iron deficiency it's still beneficial, so you could start there and see if that fixes the issue. 2-3 days and you should see a change with the liquid. Maybe longer with the granular. Combo this with something to take care of possible fungus issue and you should be good to go. Never treated a fungus issue myself, so can't give advice on that issue.

Last edited by Lone_Wolf; 05-18-2018 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:34 AM   #16
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Randy Lemmon says...

Randy's Lawn Fertilization Schedule

For southern grasses including: St. Augustine, Bermuda and Zoysia

FERTILIZE - four times a year:
Late February-Early March - apply a simple 15-5-10 for an early green-up. Most companies that make slow-release fertilizers also make a non slow-release 15-5-10 that provides for a quick two-week green up before we get to the heart of the fertilizer schedule.

WARNING: Some people will be tempted to use a weed-and-feed at this time, but if you've been following the GardenLine herbicide schedule, there should never be a need. However, spot weed-and-feed treatments are recommended for those with turf-only landscapes or landscapes that have been established for many years. Most weed-and-feeds contain Atrizine which burns roots of young trees and shrubs.

Late March-Early April - apply slow-release 3-1-2 ratio fertilizers.
Recommended formulations:
19-4-10 Nitro Phos Super Turff
18-4-6 Fertilome Southwest Greenmaker
18-0-6 Fertilome's Zero Phosphate Formula
15-5-10 Southwest Fertilizer Premium Gold
20-0-10 Bonide Premium Lawn Food
Late June-Early July - apply slow-release 3-1-2 ratio fertilizers.
(recommended formulations 19-5-9, 19-4-10, 18-4-6, 15-5-10.)

October-November - apply winterizer formulas for winter hardiness. Ratios vary, but make sure they are "winter" or "fall" formulas designed for southern grasses.
(examples: 18-6-12, 8-12-16, 10-5-14) Will make lawns winter-hardy.

June-September - if turfgrass looks yellow (chlorosis) or necrotic, use an application of either granular or liquid iron. Once a year should be enough.

FUNGICIDE - two times a year:
July-September - Gray Leaf Spot is a blotchy spot on the grass blade leafs. (mostly on St. Augustine lawns) Use fungicides with active ingredients like Daconil, Consan or Banner.

September-October - To control the dreaded Brownpatch fungal disease (symmetrical brown circles in the grass) you must prevent it from coming up with a systemic lawn fungicide with Bayleton, Terrachlor, Banner or Benomyl.

HERBICIDE - three times a year:
(Pre-Emergent controls to prevent weeds)
Late October-Early November - Use two (2) different pre-emergent herbicides, to prevent the weeds that we experience in February and March. First is a pre-emergent with Portrait or Gallery for broadleaf weeds like clover. Second, use a pre-emergent with Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan for grassy weeds like poa anna or annual bluegrass. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

February-March - Use the pre-emergent controls for grassy weeds again, to prevent such weeds as Crabgrass, Goosegrass and Dallisgrass from popping up late in the spring and summer. Again, use the grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

May-Early June - One more application of a grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan, or Treflan will keep fall weeds from invading from August on. There is also Barricade, Dimension-based or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

INSECTICIDES ó It is our belief on GardenLine, as a way to be kind to the environment, that you do not put down insecticides unless you know you have a problem. However, be prepared during the hot summer months ó July through September ó to attack chinch bug damage. This will show up as irregular shaped spots in the lawn along the concrete. Any liquid insecticide, like Permethrin or Cypermethrin, will treat the spot well. Then apply a granular insecticide like Deltamethrin or granular Permethrin in a broadcast applicator throughout the rest of the yard.
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Codypatt1 View Post
Dan is correct. This is Take all Root Rot. I would spread about an inch of peat moss immediately and use back side of leaf rack to spread it out evenly after tossing on the ground. Water it in and you’ll see results in a few days. It’s a messy job but it works.l, something to do with changing the ph level quickly causes the fungus to halt. Only thing I have found that works.
Peat moss is acidic, so that will lower the pH of the soil. If the soil pH is over 7, the soil pH is restricting the ability of the plant to get iron from the soil. So adding the Peat moss is a win win if you have Alkaline soil. The Ironite won't hurt either. I will say, I have very, very Alkaline soil, and I never once had chlorosis when I had St. Augustine grass. I did have fungus issues, but I just let them run their course. Now I have fescue.
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Old 05-18-2018, 12:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Iron deficiency?
what he said give it iron! also lack of sunlight I see that it is between buildings.
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Old 05-18-2018, 12:24 PM   #19
Lone_Wolf
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Originally Posted by mastercraftka View Post
what he said give it iron! also lack of sunlight I see that it is between buildings.
Yup, being between buildings, lack of airflow could contribute to fungus issues. St. Augustine does well in shade, but has to have at least 5-6 hours of sunlight.
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Old 05-18-2018, 12:25 PM   #20
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Put some ironite on it.
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Old 07-09-2018, 11:33 PM   #21
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Bump for verdict
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Old 07-10-2018, 10:39 AM   #22
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ttt
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:04 AM   #23
Mike Murphey
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It could be the compost you put on the yard, top dressing/manure. As compost decomposes it will pull the nitrogen from you ground and cause yellowing, also compost should not be put on in the hot time of the year, you should spread in late fall or early spring for best results.....I would use a fertilizer with 20% nitrogen, (Nitrophos or EasyGro 19-5-10), and your grass should green up quickly.
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Old 07-11-2018, 01:07 PM   #24
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Spread some peat moss on it. Mine was looking this way. I put peat down and now it’s looking better.
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Old 07-11-2018, 01:35 PM   #25
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Im surprised no body asked what kind of manure. Different manures from differnt critters contain higher amounts of minerals than others...eg...cow manure is high in sodium, etc....which will increase your soil pH level and make it more alkaline....making certain nutrients unavailable for uptake.

Since it looks like there is a thick bed...Id say you have enough sunlight. Since the yellowing is not consistent throughout the old and new leaves...not fungus. Since the yellowing appears to be on the new growth and old growth is dark green and iron is an immobile nutrient (cant take from old leaves and give to new leaves...like nitrogen)... I concur with iron chlorosis. Apply Ironite.

Last edited by Briar Friar; 07-11-2018 at 01:37 PM. Reason: UptakeSpake
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Old 07-11-2018, 01:42 PM   #26
Mike Murphey
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The manure you used could have a weed killer in it, when farmers spray their hay to kill unwanted grass/weeds, then feed it to cows/horses the weed killer can move through the animal with the manure then spreading out that manure could cause grass die off...
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Old 07-11-2018, 03:16 PM   #27
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Post a close-up of the leaf blade and stolon (runner) or better yet take the same to your local ag extension. Could be fungal or simply new grass filling in.
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Old 07-11-2018, 03:28 PM   #28
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Mine looked just like this, I put iron on it and dark green again.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:23 PM   #29
Dr. Evil
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I put ironite on it. Looks worse than ever now.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:35 PM   #30
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Fungicide, pouring fertilizer to it will make it worse. Just get a sprayer that fits on hose and use st augustine compatible fungicide concentrate
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:22 AM   #31
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I wonder if the manure was too green and not deteriorated enough? I have always been told that it needs to age before putting it down; otherwise, it could burn your vegetation.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:52 PM   #32
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Post #27
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Old 07-20-2018, 03:18 PM   #33
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Quote:
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Post #27
Post #27?
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Old 07-20-2018, 03:27 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnadell View Post
I wonder if the manure was too green and not deteriorated enough? I have always been told that it needs to age before putting it down; otherwise, it could burn your vegetation.

This is my guess. Too much N in the compost.
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Old 07-20-2018, 03:27 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnadell View Post
Post #27?
It's a good one Point is, we're all just guessing until we can see a close up of the leaf blade.
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Old 07-21-2018, 04:42 PM   #36
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Another drive-by thread posted? Asking for help but doesn't return to answer the questions for clarity.
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Old 08-24-2018, 03:04 PM   #37
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ttt

any luck?
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