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Old 06-05-2018, 06:41 PM   #1
LeanMachine
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Default AC condenser not coming on

3 ton goodman unit. A couple of weeks ago it was working normally but buzzing super loud. Even when power was turned off, it continued to buzz so i realized it was something to do with the thermostat. I replaced the contactor, where the sound was coming from, and the buzzing stopped. Unit came on but seemed to struggle to start and would sometimes kind of die and then start back up. I figured the capacitor was about to go out. Now today it will not come on at all. I checked the breaker. There is an identical unit, besides being 2 ton, on the other end of the house. So i pulled the capacitor off it to see if it would start the 3 ton unit. Nothing. Should that capacitor work on the 3 ton? Its a little smaller than the 3 ton capacitor. Thermostat is buzzing in the contactor like before but barely audible. What's next?
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Old 06-05-2018, 06:49 PM   #2
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What is the sizes of the two capacitors proably will not work if the sizes are any different the 2 ton will have a smaller cap.
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:18 PM   #3
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Pic with thumb is 3 ton
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:49 PM   #4
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Don’t think it will work !! You need to get the same cap. Usually a bad cap will be oily or the top of the cap. Would be swollen make sure your contactor is pulling in and check line voltage to unit make sure you have your 230 volt and check for melted or burnt wires you also may need a hard start kit along with the capacitor does your lights go dim in your house when the units come on for a few seconds.
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:56 PM   #5
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Lights do not dim.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:11 PM   #6
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Quickest way to tell if the capacitor is going out is to see if you can spin the fan blade and if it starts up and runs it is your capacitor is bad. If nothing happens ohm out the fan motor. With out the fan motor the system will more than likely trip out on high pressure. Hope this helps
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:21 PM   #7
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Yep. Get a stick and try to spin the fan to get it started (if you don't want to take the cover off).
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:36 PM   #8
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Capacitor shows no visual signs of being bad. Manually jump starting fan produced no result. I guess tomorrow i will try to rule out the fan motor.
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:03 PM   #9
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Make sure your getting the right voltage too. One leg of my service disconnect/breaker gave out last year and did the same thing.
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Old 06-05-2018, 10:36 PM   #10
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What Smokeater said. Sounds like you don't have power. If the fan was bad, the compressor would still run. You would hear it. Need to check power with voltmeter.


If you get it running, get rid of those Chinese made capacitors. Those caps are only 5mfd apart, either one would run in either unit for test purposes.
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Old 06-05-2018, 10:48 PM   #11
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Check your fuse in the air handler. Usually a 5amp fuse. If it's blown, you won't get the 24v to the times relay board.

Other thing it could be is the timed relay board.

Highly doubt it's your capacitor. Push in on your contactor and see if you get power and your fan to come on. If get power to the fan from pushing in on the capacitor and your fuse in the airhandler is ok, Check for 24v at the timed relay board. If you have it there, it's the board. They're about $15-20

Last edited by BBReezen; 06-05-2018 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 06-06-2018, 07:29 AM   #12
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Thanks for all the info guys. I will work through those items today and report back.
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Old 06-06-2018, 07:35 AM   #13
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I would check you phone book for a A/C guy.

Good luck not a good time to be with out cold air.
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Old 06-06-2018, 07:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 125Dad View Post
I would check you phone book for a A/C guy.

Good luck not a good time to be with out cold air.
The temptation is there. It just really pains me to pay anyone to do anything. A penny saved is a penny earned. Our house is basically 2 halves, serviced by separate units, that can be closed off. So half of the house is still cold at least. HVAC is one spot where my DIY knowledge is lacking. However, it grows every time I have a problem.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeanMachine View Post
The temptation is there. It just really pains me to pay anyone to do anything. A penny saved is a penny earned. Our house is basically 2 halves, serviced by separate units, that can be closed off. So half of the house is still cold at least. HVAC is one spot where my DIY knowledge is lacking. However, it grows every time I have a problem.
Same as me, I have electronics troubleshooting skills so I can usually track it down if it is something simple. Put a $20 part in and go. Now he Freon amd piper side of it, they can have at it
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:41 AM   #16
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Send pic of the contactor you wired up may have a wire in wrong place
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:41 AM   #17
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Does the fan spin freely? Most likely not the capacitor but could have a compressor issue. Over heated possibly. Truly it is hard to diagnose over the internet. Could be a few things casing the issue. I'd call someone out
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:39 AM   #18
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Confirmed 110-120v on both legs coming in.
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:40 AM   #19
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Fan spins very free manually.
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:42 AM   #20
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Mine stopped working a couple of weeks ago. A friend who does a\c came over and found a spider had been fired been the contact points. All that you could see were its curled up legs sticking out from under the contact.
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:45 AM   #21
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Have you tried taking that small cover off and manually pressing in the contactor to power on the fan/compressor?
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:47 AM   #22
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fire ants will also get in those contactors, but I think you already said you replaced that.
hard start kit will help also if the fan is not bad.
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:12 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBReezen View Post
Have you tried taking that small cover off and manually pressing in the contactor to power on the fan/compressor?
I second this suggestion. if you have power coming in - manually override the contactor - should be a spring loaded button to push under that cover. then, if you are getting power on the other side, your fan/compressor will kick on. if you hear the fan/compressor humming but not fully kicking on, then might need to replace the capacitor.
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:14 AM   #24
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Is this white board the one you are talking about in air handler? Fuse checks good. I read voltage on right side wires but none on left side. Not sure if there should be any there or not. However, now the unit has magically come on. But i feel it will be short lived functionality. It could be all in my head but it seems like the condenser is running a little weak. Like it should be a little louder.
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:15 AM   #25
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Forgot the pic
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:19 AM   #26
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If it stops again, i will try pushing in the contactor. I assume what you are referring to is under that black cover held onto the contactor by 2 screws?
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:52 AM   #27
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Do you have a amp meter
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:00 PM   #28
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Let run a while and feel top of motor on the fan guard. To see if it’s getting hot
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:03 PM   #29
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Make sure you have the red and purple wire on the cap on the common terminal and the yellow on herm terminal of cap.
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:12 PM   #30
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I always start with the contactor push! if there is no power, you will be doing tons of work that is not needed!!
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Old 06-06-2018, 01:24 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeanMachine View Post
Is this white board the one you are talking about in air handler? Fuse checks good. I read voltage on right side wires but none on left side. Not sure if there should be any there or not. However, now the unit has magically come on. But i feel it will be short lived functionality. It could be all in my head but it seems like the condenser is running a little weak. Like it should be a little louder.
I have a Frigidaire and mine looks a little different but yes, of fuse is good then you should be getting 24v to the outside unit relay board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LeanMachine View Post
If it stops again, i will try pushing in the contactor. I assume what you are referring to is under that black cover held onto the contactor by 2 screws?
Yessir, pull those two screws and the cover and you can push in on the small rectangle tab.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:10 PM   #32
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check your pan upstairs... if its full of water your float switch might have kept unit from coming on...
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:59 PM   #33
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You need a volt meter to properly diagnose this issue. I would help but Iím too far.


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Old 06-13-2018, 01:57 PM   #34
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Have we gotten a resolution, it’s been a week?
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Old 06-13-2018, 03:06 PM   #35
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Quote:
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check your pan upstairs... if its full of water your float switch might have kept unit from coming on...
Thats funny you mention this...just happened to me. The unit is off and unresponsive, go through the whole "is it getting power" scenario... breakers...etc.

YUP! Thats what it was...no bleach in the drain line so when it stopped up and overflowed into the pan and the float switch killed the unit! Thank goodness it did too. Took me 2 trips with a 14gal shopvac to suck all the water from the pan. Float switch returned and unit fired up!
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:06 PM   #36
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I'd make sure you have 24v coming in from the thermostat. I just replaced my thermostat last week for the same symptoms as you. For some reason I was only getting 14v coming in
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:29 AM   #37
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Yes I have a volt meter that was used to check things.

I have run into the water pan issue before on the other unit. This unit is in our master closet. From what I remember, if that's the problem, the inside unit does not come on either.

However, like i mentioned in an above post, while I was going through checking things it magically started working again and has run fine ever since. I still suspect the capacitor to be the culprit and it will probably take a dump again soon.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:04 AM   #38
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if theres a Locke Supply close they sell capacitorsa for 12 bucks and some change to the public. Just replaced one on my unit yesterday.
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Old 06-15-2018, 12:54 PM   #39
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I paid $30 for a capacitor at a supply store, but it was $30 well spent.
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Old Yesterday, 02:44 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abilliott View Post
Thats funny you mention this...just happened to me. The unit is off and unresponsive, go through the whole "is it getting power" scenario... breakers...etc.

YUP! Thats what it was...no bleach in the drain line so when it stopped up and overflowed into the pan and the float switch killed the unit! Thank goodness it did too. Took me 2 trips with a 14gal shopvac to suck all the water from the pan. Float switch returned and unit fired up!
On the bleach in the drain pan/line---our HVAC company says no as it is corrosive --- they recommend vinegar instead.
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