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    Couple questions

    Since my neck has forced me to set down my higher weight Hoyt for a bit. Ive changed my bow this year to a all wood 3 piece takedown I got from the classifieds here that's 47#@28".. I bought a dozen of the black eagle vintage arrows in 500 spine. I got them to fly like darts with factory inserts and 125 gr points. I've never hunted with an arrow under 600 grains or less than 225 grains up front. So this has me a little concerned as far as penetration since this arrow would finish out around the 450 grain mark.

    1. Do I add tubing to the shaft to bring up the total weight or will it effect my already lacking FOC too much?

    2. Since I imagine I wont be getting pass throughs as easily should I go with a broadhead with bleeders to help with blood trails.

    3. Or am I overthinking it. I just dont want to be in the middle of bow season wishing I had setup differently.

    #2
    I can relate to you in the neck issues! I think my neck will eventually be the end to me shooting a bow.

    What is your draw length? Or, a better question would be, what is your draw weight at your DL?

    If you want more total arrow weight and FOC (without knowing any more info), my first suggestion would be to cut the .500 shorter and add more point weight.

    Another route would be to go to a full length .400 spine shaft and add a lot of weight up front. That is what I do. I shoot 50# at my DL, and use a nearly full length shaft with 225gr up front, for a total arrow weight of 563gr.

    Another thing, while I totally believe that high FOC is a good thing, I also believe that a good tune trumps everything else. Folks have been killing critters successfully for a long time with 10-15%FOC.

    Also, idk what shaft you are using, but I think that one of the best things you can do to increase penetration is to go to a skinny shaft. I don’t have scientific proof, but since changing from a 5/16” shaft to a 17/64” shaft, I get a lot more complete passthrus!

    Good luck, and I hope your neck situation improves.

    Bisch


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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      #3
      You could be over thinking it... but perhaps not.

      The minimum I have used personally is an arrow that is 10gpp. So all of my arrows have been around 500 grain. I have noticed a difference in "thumping" ability between 450 and 500 grains with my bow(s) so I do tend to lean more towards the heavier arrow. I should clarify what I mean by "thumping" ability. There are lots of factors that determine if you are getting pass thrus on large game. If you hit the rib, if you hit high or how far back, should shots, how sharp your broadhead is, and arrow flight. I've zipped a few, I've 1 holed a few, and and I have 2 holed a few without a complete pass thru. It can be hard to tell sometimes WHY it didn't zip through. But when I am shooting rabbits... I can sure tell if I am thumping them harder or if I am just glancing stuff off of them. So when all things are considered equal... again, I can tell the difference in 50gr of arrow weight on rabbits. I can't always tell the same on deer because of all those other factors.

      You didn't say what DL you drew that bow to, but I am going to assume it is 47# @28 DL. If you draw it short, then you are at 10gpp, if it is more, you are definitely under that. And not that 10gpp is critical to hit... it just so happens I've been happy with 10gpp or higher and disappointed with less when it comes to hunting performance.

      All that being said, lots of stuff have died with a 450 grain arrow setup. given the temporary nature of you situation, I'd probably call it good and really focus on getting a razor sharp head on the tip of that thing.

      Regarding bleeders vs non bleeders... blood trails are nice! The only reason I tend not to go with bleeders is trying to keep them sharp. The best way to make a critter leave a blood trail is to hit em low.

      Comment


        #4
        I've got some full length gold tips 400 with the 100 gr inserts I that use in my hoyt that shoot a little stiff on this bow. I'll try and add heavier point to see if i can get them to fly better. I draw 28.5" this bow around 47-48 but the hoyt is almost 58lbs. The lighter weight bow is off the shelf and the hoyt is off an adjustable rest. Any suggestions on a 175 gr - 200 gr broadhead that doesnt need to much work sharpening. I can sharpen a knife but seem to just tear up broadheads
        Last edited by DWA; 08-15-2018, 07:35 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by DWA View Post
          Any suggestions on a 175 gr - 200 gr broadhead that doesnt need to much work sharpening. I can sharpen a knife but seem to just tear up broadheads
          I was using Zwickey's with a file for a couple years... but am now completely sold on Simmons Tiger Sharks with a Rada ($7) sharpener. I've had some really great success with those Sharks and have been kicking myself for not using them sooner. Sharpening them with the Rada is super simple and I get a great, hair shaving edge every time with just a little bit of touch up.

          Comment


            #6
            Just ordered 2 packs of the tiger sharks 175.

            Comment


              #7
              Id just like to say.
              well tuned arrows.
              well placed arrows.
              and a sharp broadhead.
              practice, practice, practice...
              and if there 10g per. your good to go...

              Comment


                #8
                From Bisch: Another thing, while I totally believe that high FOC is a good thing, I also believe that a good tune trumps everything else. Folks have been killing critters successfully for a long time with 10-15%FOC.

                If you have 450 grain arrows flying like darts out of a 47# bow, stop thinking; you're good to go. From here concentrate on making sure you get your broadheads sharp and can put them where they belong.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Never heard of a Rada sharpener. Think I'll look that up.

                  Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You're set up would fly right through an elk. Just shoot those dart like arrows and don't worry about the weight. I hunt with just about 500, gr arrows and they will pass through a moose so just saying whitetails and hogs will fall to them.My moose fell to a 50 lb recurve I pulled at about 45 lbs with 500 gr arrows. The arrows passed through rib bones and lodged in opposite scapula, 125 gr broadhead.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Agreed , also go with cut on contact razor sharp single blade single bevel broadhead. You will actually get the benefit of that head / shaft spinning through the body and providing more complete devastation.


                      Originally posted by Bisch View Post
                      I can relate to you in the neck issues! I think my neck will eventually be the end to me shooting a bow.

                      What is your draw length? Or, a better question would be, what is your draw weight at your DL?

                      If you want more total arrow weight and FOC (without knowing any more info), my first suggestion would be to cut the .500 shorter and add more point weight.

                      Another route would be to go to a full length .400 spine shaft and add a lot of weight up front. That is what I do. I shoot 50# at my DL, and use a nearly full length shaft with 225gr up front, for a total arrow weight of 563gr.

                      Another thing, while I totally believe that high FOC is a good thing, I also believe that a good tune trumps everything else. Folks have been killing critters successfully for a long time with 10-15%FOC.

                      Also, idk what shaft you are using, but I think that one of the best things you can do to increase penetration is to go to a skinny shaft. I don’t have scientific proof, but since changing from a 5/16” shaft to a 17/64” shaft, I get a lot more complete passthrus!

                      Good luck, and I hope your neck situation improves.

                      Bisch


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Rada sharpener

                        Originally posted by DRT View Post
                        Never heard of a Rada sharpener. Think I'll look that up.

                        Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
                        DRT,

                        I took Swamprabbit's tip and bought two Rada sharpeners online from WallyWorld for like $12. Got them delivered yesterday. Ran my dull chef's knife through it six times with just the weight of the knife for pressure. It then easily sliced through a single sheet of paper like nothing.

                        I was skeptical before I tried it, as the wheels are mounted loosely, but it works!

                        I'll be using it to sharpen several broad heads next. I have some two-edge Zwickeys and some Mangus stingers to work on.

                        Todd

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