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    Arrow length

    I just ordered a Mathews Z7 with a 28" draw. I am buying new arrows, Beman MFX Bone Collector, 340 spine. I will be shooting about 65lbs, ripcord, 100 gr Slick Trick Magnums, Blazers, and a wrap. My question is how long should my arrows be cut, total length from tip to end of nock.

    #2
    You'll need to put your uncut arrow on your bow and draw it back. Have someone else mark it while you are at full draw. Then cut the arrows.

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      #3
      with a full length arrow nocked and drawn back, i used an o-ring from a mechanical broadhead on the arrow shaft. have someone roll to where it was about 1" in front of the rest.

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        #4
        just off hand 28.5 should work, but if you got the time. do what they said above draw back and have someone mark it. If you can have them cut from both ends that is where the most non-straightness is. IMO I put your setup in the beman site and it has for a 28"arrow at 65lbs to use 400-410. the ics energy 410 spine would give you 7.6grs/inch and 220 at 29" pretty light and should be fast and deadly.
        Last edited by El Coyote; 02-26-2010, 11:18 AM.

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          #5
          Make sure you put the arrow on the bow, with your release on before you measure, then you're good to go.

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            #6
            Where ever it spines right for your tip weight

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              #7
              Defintely make sure to cut them so they spine right for your draw length and poundage. It will save some tuning headaches later.

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                #8
                i have a 27.5 DL but my arrows are 26 inches

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                  #9
                  With a new bow and new arrows you should start with a bare shaft, 30" long, the insert, and the point weight equal to your broad head. Put the rest in center shot of the bow or follow mfg reccomendations.
                  Shoot the arrow with no vanes thru the paper, a right tear means weak and a stiff arrow will tear left for a right handed shooter. If it shows weak cut the arrow off 1/2" and repeat. You can do this till you get a bullet hole.
                  This can be done with one arrow and when you add vanes you will have the best grouping bow ever.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by stryker93 View Post
                    Defintely make sure to cut them so they spine right for your draw length and poundage. It will save some tuning headaches later.
                    ^^^^^^^^
                    what he said

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by old killer View Post
                      With a new bow and new arrows you should start with a bare shaft, 30" long, the insert, and the point weight equal to your broad head. Put the rest in center shot of the bow or follow mfg reccomendations.
                      Shoot the arrow with no vanes thru the paper, a right tear means weak and a stiff arrow will tear left for a right handed shooter. If it shows weak cut the arrow off 1/2" and repeat. You can do this till you get a bullet hole.
                      This can be done with one arrow and when you add vanes you will have the best grouping bow ever.
                      on the paper tuning do you have to hang the paper like from a clothesling or can you tape a paper to my block?

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                        #12
                        paper has to be tight, tape some craft paper to a cardboard box with top and bottom missing, with your target 3' behind it, make it so the box is sturdy and shoot through it also google "archery paper tuning" for a more definite definition.

                        I made a frame out of pvc and have a roll of craft paper that i use.

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